Hey guys, I'm new to this forum because of an issue I'm having with my kota,

symptom: Stalls after starting, if starts at all

What I have noticed: I have noticed, since the inception of my problem, that the characteristic "whirring" noise when ignition is turned on (not turned over) has stopped. If I let the kota sit for a loooooong while, it will crank (with some resistance), but if I aplpy the gas and run it to 2000RPM in N, I can keep the engine running, (doesn't matter for how long, i've tried for a few seconds and 1-2 minutes) as soon as I let idle normally, it runs for a little bit then putters out on me.

What I am thinking: Since I don't here the "whir" when truning ignition ON, (not turning engine over) that I have either A. Faulty/Bad fuel infector or B. Dirty/oxidized fuel injector.

My plan: Start simple, replace fuel filter, add Techron Fuel injector cleaner to tank, and see what happens, if that doesn't work, using gum-out or similar cleaner, try to "clean" the fuel infector terminals and try again.

My question before starting this: As I am a "novice home mechanic" at best, Has anyone had similar issues in the past, and what did y'all do to correct the issue. I really don't want to go to a mechanic or dealership, cause they rip you off, and in the last case for me, forget to put things back in, like my radiator overflow reservoir when a timing chain was replaced. Also, since I am a novice at fuel system related issues, I have a big fear of setting something a blaze and inheritenly burning down my neighborhood. any ideas, advice, or "here's what NOT to do's" would really help me out. thanks in advance everyone!!

 

Hmmm...
The "whirring" noise you hear was probably the fuel pump (coming from the rear, driver side of the vehicle, and would last a few seconds at the most??).
During a few model years, they had a problem to where the battery feed to the Automatic Shutdown Relay (controls electrical feed to the injectors, and coil, amoung a few other things) and the fuel pump relay would go bad, which, of course, without getting voltage to the fuel pump, the injectors, or the coil, well, you won't be going anywhere. You can test for battery voltage (see picture, if by chance the relays are set up differantly, look on the bottom-side of the PDC cover). Better yet, you should also physically check the cable running to these relays, in the little black box (the Power Distribution Center [PDC]), and make any repairs necessary.
Post back with results.

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Hmm.. I understand what you are saying. although, as i am new to automechanics, how do I go about testing the voltage, is there a tool/meter or something I am goin to need? If so, where can I pick one up for a fairly inexpensive price? What should I be looking for during the test?

 

Also, I'm reading through the Hayes manual, and I'm not sure if I have a regular fuel injection system, or a MPI (multi-point Injection) system, How can I find this out? woudl there be a difference inthe way the injector looks???

 

A simple voltmeter can be used, but, I would recommend getting a multimeter, such as THIS one. ($30 at Sears). The features you are looking for on a multimeter are mainly: ohmmeter (it measures resistance in wiring, get a meter with a WIDE range, since "good" resistance on items can range from 0 ohms to 100,000 ohms), voltmeter (cars run on DC, houses run on AC), and a continuity tester (with an audible sound is nice). The one in the link meets all the criteria, and, $20 is a fair price.

When you test for battery voltage at the spot shown in that picture (on the Automatic Shutdown [ASD] and fuel pump relays) you are looking for about 12volts DC (or, whatever the battery voltage is). If voltage matches, good. If it does not, you have voltage drop, and the wiring needs to be fixed. EVEN IF the voltage matches, I would highly recommend PHYSICALLY check the wires (for corrosion, bad connections, etc). Just because the connections check out with a voltmeter one time, does not mean there is not a problem in the wiring.

To start with, I will tell you, always, ALWAYS, always start with the easy stuff first. I highly doubt it is a problem with the fuel injections, or the injection system (you said you do not hear the "whirring" noise, the whirring noise is nothing to do with the fuel injection system, just the fuel delivery). My knowledge on fuel injection systems is, pretty much nothing. However, from what I have read, you (and I) have a spin-off of multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) called sequential fuel injection (or SEFI). Pretty much, the differance is, in SEFI, each individual injector has its very own ground running to the PCM (computer), so the PCM grounds only one injector at a time (to allow fuel to enter in intake just before the valve opens up), versus MPFI, where two injectors are fired at the same time (gas from one of the injectors enters the combustion chamber, while the other sits until its valve opens). If you do not have inectors for each cylinder, than you probably have throttle-body injection.

Test and look at the stuff I mentioned before. Post back with results.

 

Just a quick question regarding the fuel pump, WHERE IS IT??? I was under the bed today, I found the filter (which I plan to change out tomorrow since it is 14 years old), I have found a return valve and the valve that leads tot he engine, however, no pump of any sort, I did find one item, but it looked to be part of the brake line assembly, does the fuel pump reside in the tank itself??? (someone mentioned some vehicles are set up this way), like I said, I'm a novice, but could that be possible? If so, how do I hear it the "whirring" and why does it sound like it's coming from the engine bay? Thanks in advance for your reply and all the help you have given, it has been MOST appreciative and helpful...for a stranger to help me the way you have is incredible...either you're REALLY nice, or REALLY want to see another Dakota make it back on the road!! lol!! Thanks again!!!

 

The fuel pump should be an electric, in-tank type.
So you actually have a serviceable filter, huh? Lucky you. Mine's not (integrated onto the fuel pump).
Even if the pump is in tank, you can still hear it pressurise the system (for a second or two) when you put the key to the ON (but not start) position.
You can test to make sure the fuel pump (and wiring going to it) is working by: doing what I said in the above steps (to verify the connection to the fuel pump relay is ok). Than, remove the fuel pump relay. Than, crank the engine brifely to relieve fuel pressure (also remove the fuel filler cap, to relive in-tank pressure). (Note: also relieve fuel pressure before replacing the fuel filter). Than, find a place to disconnect a gas line (such as, at an external fuel filter). Put the end in a container. Put the fuel pump relay back in, and turn the key. If my thinking is correct, you should have some gas come out. (Proper fuel flow is about 1 liter [1 liter is about 1/4 a gallon] per minute).

Post back with any results.

It's only what civilized people do, help each other out when they can. But that's why this forum is here, it really is a great place.

 

Thanks you SOO much!! As I said, I plan to replace the filter tomorrow, cause it's easy to get to and why not?? After that, I will do the steps you have given me. (I'm assuming do it this way "tank -> Line -> Filter -> line to engine(disconnected) -> container..?) So, if I get gas spurting out for a little bit, the pump is fine and it will have been either A. Filter or B. Relay...wow....you have helped tremendously, after the fiasco today I was about to just take it somewhere and let someone else deal with it, but I like to fix things on my own...and of course, save money.. hehe.. Thanks for all your help, I will let you know the outcome....now climbing under the bed on a gravel surface will prove to be a *pain* but oh well..as long as it's fixed....Thanks again!!

 

If you have Throttle Body Injection(TBI) than the whirring noise you hear may be the ISC motor. This controls the idle speed. It extends and you hear the whirring. If this does not work correctly the engine will not idle.



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