1995 dodge dakota 8 cyl 318
wont stay running..dies cold or hot..
replaced in the past 8 months fuel pump, computer, coil, pickup coil < under distributor>, crankshift position sensor. It will run then just die.havent moved it out of the driveway in months. I am totally blown away and cant figure it out. Even tried dry gas cause it acts like it sputters as it dies.. the tach drops and thats it..it quits.Engine light doesnt give codes to what could be wrong

 

It seems to run normally just not for long..most times it restarts. I have swapped the relays. It doesnt get power to the fuel pump at times and when it does..it may start when it doesnt then it acts like its not getting spark... I think its a ground somewhere.. but not sure where to start

 

hey,
i have a 94 dakota with 3.9 that seems to be doing the same. itll run great, then out of the blue it just dies, i wait 5-10 minute and it starts right up. it never shows an error or engine light, it just dies. i dont know whether its electrical or fuel related because by the time you get to check anything, it starts up again. it does this 1-2 times per week. i think its a ground problem somewhere, or a sensor that heats up and when its cool again all is good. just a guess, but very annoying.

 

I just got my new 1989 Dakota running yesterday it had corrosion on the plug pins where the wirring harness goes through the fire wall, also it had burnt a pin into so it didn't make a connection.

 

what I came across: havent done it yet but hopefully today.. I did notice when I looked at mine there is tape on 2 of the wires.... so it may of had this problem before...but FYI .
A common problem in the trucks, primarly ones made between 1993 thru 1995, was failure (corrosion) of the splice that feeds battery power to the automatic shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays. If these relays do not get battery power, your truck will not be able to start. The splice is located underneath the Power Distribution Center (PDC), which is the black box located behind the battery.

 

Do the plenum gasket test. Depending on how bad it is leaking, it can cause all kinds of different symptoms. Remove the EGR and breather cap from the valve covers, let them dangle. With engine running at idle, cover both holes with palms of your hands. After a few seconds, lift one slowly. If air puffs out, good, if it sucks in, the plenum gasket is leaking.
Of course, you have to get it running before you can do this test....