5.2 liter, 2WD, 113K. Originally started with mostly being a problem when putting in reverse, seemed to get worse and affect forward drive as well.

Have replaced/done:
1. PCV valve
2. EGR valve
3. Fuel filter
4. IAC valve
5. Cleaned throttle body/replaced gasket
6. Air filter
7. Air filter housing gasket (between housing and throttle body)

With all that done, it seems to be better, but still not quite right. Still have to let it warm up some before it will not die in gear. May get worse as the temperature gets colder in winter. After it's warm it's pretty good, but still will occassionally stall when I come to a stop sign.

Questions:
1. Stupid question, when I replaced the IAC valve there was a red/pink gasket on the new unit and a black gasket in the box. Should I install with the red/pink AND the black gasket or just one or the other? Right now, I've got just the black gasket on, I removed the other one.

2. Could this be the TPS? Most of the similar posts I saw seem to point to the IAC so I aimed at it first.

3. Possible that I got a faulty new IAC? Any way to test it?

4. How about a vacuum leak somewhere? Could this cause this kind of prob?

5. Any other ideas?

Thanks for your advice

 

Well first you say it dies. So it only dies at Idle or it will die no matter what. If you hold down the throttle when its going to die, does it die? Yes the typical problem for Idle issues is the IAC. Alot bought new still act up. You can test it. You can check the FAQ in this section for the service manual and see how it says to test it. It can be a vacuum leak too.

 

Thanks. To answer your questions:
* "So it only dies at Idle or it will die no matter what?"

It idles fine in neutral or park. Runs great in fact.

* "If you hold down the throttle when its going to die, does it die?"

At first, when it's cold it's pretty hard to keep it from stalling when I put into drive or reverse even if I give it some gas. As it warms up, rev'ing the engine some in neutral before putting in drive will keep it from stalling, though it's a lungy/bumpy start. Once it's completely warm, it doesn't typically stall at all.

Don't know if this is related or helpful, but I think it's missing a little when you push the pedal say just a quarter of the way down. Notice that say when I'm going up a small incline on a city street, just doesn't seem right.

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-stopping.html

 

It's very possible that you got a bad IAC. I had to go back twice and have them replace it when I tried to put an IAC in mine. It could also be the TPS, but unlikely given your description. Usually the TPS is bad when it won't come down to idle after your foot's been on the gas.

Another possibilty is a bad MAP sensor or a vacuum leak. Either of those problems would have the same symptoms. Basically, the MAP reads the pressure differential in the intake manifold, so if there is no vacuum leak and you have a bad sensor, it could be reading like there is a vacuum leak. Or you could have a good sensor and there actually is a vacuum leak. There is a procedure for checking both the TPS and MAP sensors in the '95 FSM by using a multi-meter.

The only other thing I can think besides those, is that you have a bad coolant temp sensor. The engine uses readings off the coolant temp sensor as well to decide tuning and idling, and since you said it only does it cold, that could be another possible culprit.

 

Hi Woodbutcher, thanks for the link. "A good way to find out is when its about to stall like you mentioned, pop in into neutral and see if it continues to stall. If popping it into neutral stops it from stalling, I agree with woodbutcher." (Couple months later, I was tranny shopping)

In my case, if I pop it into neutral it does stops the stalling. So what's the connection between this problem and the tranny going out?

 

I have no idea. All I can say is when I replaced the tranny the stalling went away. I haven't touched anything on the motor 'cept for the usual oil change.

 

Woodbutcher, you were right. In the shop getting a new transmission right now. Think it was a bad torque converter, but the transmission is toast too. Hopefully this will help someone else.

 

mine had the same problem. changed the tranny fluid every 6 months and kept it alive. i knew when it stalled in reverse it was time for a fluid change.

 

i will say this from experience - putting the transmission in gear with too low (or empty) transmission fluid, it will act like it wants to die, or it might die.
Obviously, running the transmission with too low, or empty, on fluid WILL damage the transmission, if not make it go out on spot. (Again, from experience! Ah, being young and driving illegally!!)