Manual shift, V6 3.9 Sport with 134K. The truck is experiencing total power loss. This is happening at very low rpm 800- 1200 and only when making sharpish right turns. When this happens, the clutch is partially depressed around the catch point, no gas pedal, foot on and off brake.

Truck can usually be restarted with some effort.

To date, and in the following order the dealer has replaced 1.)negative ground cable, 2) the AIS sensor with a full fuel system cleaning/throttle.
3rd) replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter. The 4th time back the ASD relay. Today, after picking up from dealer and dealer saying all fixed, it stalled both when turning out of the dealership and also (for the first time) while just sitting in Neutral / idling. No codes are showing (OBD 1). Engine warm. Only one owner and truck has been well maintained over the years. Please help.

UPDATES POSTED BELOW

 

It's something in that part of the engine.

Could be the MAP sensor.

Might be that you have a leaking EGR (this was a common problem on Chevy 2.8 V6's, which is why it comes to mind.)

There might be something on this page that can help. http://www.allpar.com/fix/AISmotor.html

 

My 93 V-6 was doing the same thing for a couple of months. It finally aggravated me enough to buy a new idle air controller from Rockauto. Installed it almost 6 months ago and it never stalled again. Might be the same thing with yours. Kinda surprised the dealer wouldn't look at that part as one of the prime culprits.

Edit: Nevermind, that is what Dodge calls the AIS..........whoops!

 

Hi Brian-

Thanks for your suggestions. I will check with them @leaking EGR. As for the MAP, according to troubleshootmyvehicle.com the symptoms I am experiencing do NOT seem to correspond to the common symptoms of a MAP according to their list:

1. Rough Idle.
2. Black smoke coming out of the tail-pipe.
3. Engine Stalls under load.
4. Engine dies as soon as it starts.
5. Lack of power when you accelerate the vehicle down the road.

Can you think of anything else? Also, I have been going through various forums for the past three weeks. This is taking a lot of my time but this is my only vehicle and I cannot afford a replacement right now. Plus I have already given the dealer almost $1,000 and still not fixed.

 

Hi Chr_han-

It is ok. Thanks for trying.

 

Dealer shook wire bundles and checked grounds but was not able to recreate total power loss/stalling condition. So looks like it is NOT "the splice."

When I inquire about other sensors MAP, TPS, VSS, etc. etc. the dealer tells me that it is not any of those things.

Right now they are saying it maybe the PCM. Unfortunately, when it stalls, the code is lost in the PCM. However, what I am reading from CARDONE, suggests it is not likely the PCM. Or, if it is ,the root cause needs to be found before installing a reman. So, still seems like something upstream that feeds power to the PCM, like a problem in the starting (short in ignition in steering wheel?), charging (faulty gel cell battery, voltage regulator/alternator?), or fuel systems (issue with new pump?). Maybe a wire or component that is moving and shorting on right turns only or fuel moving in the tank to left side?)

Also, to be more technically accurate, since the truck is moving when problem occurs, but no gas pedal, I am reading this "state" would not then be described as idling as defined. So, I guess I would describe the truck as experiencing a very low rpm total power loss / stall on right turns only. PCM would be in closed system mode.

So frustrating, any assistance greatly appreciated. Please help.

 

I have been researching my truck's drivability problem.

Wish to god I was in a place to get a new truck but I need this one to go a bit more.

 

I am picking up truck today with no resolution to the total loss of power /stalling problem.

Dealer service is unable to figure out what is wrong.

 

Bueller? Anyone?

 

Got the truck back from the stealership and parked it back home. Decided to have a go at it.

Brian in Tucson, I changed the MAP. Truck is driving much differently and much better now. It starts up better, has more power when stepping on the gas, the tachometer seems to be reading more accurately and steadily. Lastly, test drove around neighborhood making several full stops, low rpm right turns and no loss of power/stalls.

So, so far so good.

Time will tell if this is the fix.

Thanks for all the help.