Your write up covers stuff that Just Isn't In the FSM ... I give you my thanks!

I'm about to do mine, along with beating out some minor dents on the driver's side ... they've got a "All you can carry for $100" sale coming up and have a really nice 1993 Dakota in the boneyard *grins* Too bad I can't carry the bench, the dash pieces, possibly the dash itself, the interior door panels, AND the 5 speed manual at one time ...

RwP

 

It helps if you are too stupid to know its too hard. Thanks Ralph.

 

Additional info. Today

 

I wrote this up and tried to post it and got that “Additional info. Today” post out of it. I rewrote it in edit and posted and got nothing. ?? Third time the charm? NOPE. 4th try. I drove it today and noticed the driver beltline was not tight. I tested the one screw I could reach easily (I have not put the panels back on yet) and it was stripped. I dropped the crank and stop block and all of them were like this. I went to the store and found out the screw is a #8 about 3/8 long. So I went to a fastener store and got 5 #10 screws. Went home dropped the window crank and stop block again and 4 of the 5 went in tight. When I got it all back together and was going to finish the errand I forgot I noticed the top corner of the glass channel was not sitting down right. I must have moved it when I dropped the crank and window stop twice. I unscrewed the top screw in the alum channel and using a big flat screw driver in one of the cutouts for the pointy bits I pushed it up some. It helped. The rain is coming so I closed it up for the day and will go at it tomorrow. I’ll probably remove both screws from the alum channel and go at it that way.

 

The Precision restoration guy just got back to me. After asking if the driver side was OK he is sending me a new glass channel for the passenger side. Pretty awesome service if you ask me.

 

I got an email from Precision the replacement glass channel is on its way. The coverlay panels arrived and I was surprised to find out they do not have the OE connectors. The OE has Spring like things that hook into the back side of the panel. The coverlay has holes in it and supplied screws. You are supposed to align the hole in the "triangle area" and the arm rest hole and fix the screws tightly. Then drill through the other holes in the panel with a 9/64ths drill bit!
I feel like this is an intentional deception as one can see the holes in the info page when I went back to check (but missed entirely when I first purchased it) but there is no mention of having to drill holes in the sheet metal of the door.

 

That about the drilling of the holes is good to know ... I'll be pulling good doors (no cracked in the hinge welds!) this weekend, with good door panels, so I no longer want those, but still ...

RwP

 

Thing is mine are cracked near the lock and the beltline is pulled away. This new panel doesn't have the chrome edge along the beltline. Let's hope I have a 9/64ths bit.

 

Removed and replaced the damaged new passenger glass channel. Here’s some pics. It started raining as I was taping up the water dam. It was just a drizzle

 

Finally got the Coverlay door panels on. They don't look bad and the belt line is very nice. As for 9/64ths bit its just over 1/8th and since my 9/64th broke on the first hole a 1/8 bit works fine.