How would i go about doing a complete tranny fluid drain (Not just the fluid in the pan, the whole entire system!!) And is there a proper way to refill the system with the new fluid?
Thanks

 

Machine flush it is the easiest way to go. They hook up a machine to the cooling line and use the transmission pump to pump out the old fluid and then the machine's microprocessing computer puts new fluid in at the same rate. It flushes everything, the cooler, the transmission, the torque converter, and the lines. If you feel like doing it yourself, it's a pain in the ***. Drain the old fluid and put a new filter on. Add a drain plug too. Refill the transmission and then drive it around and then drain it through the drain plug and then refill it drive it around again and drain it again. Do this about 5 times and you'll get most of the fluid out.

 

easiest way is to go to your local quick lube place and see if they have a T-TECH machine it drains and replaces the system I couldn't tell ya how much it would cost though..

 

Do the following:
1. Drop the pan and change the filter. Than, refill until it says around full on the dipstick (however, don't turn the truck on).
2. Disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler (bottom of the radiator, unless you have an aux. cooler; its a good idea to check which line it is before doing step 1)
3. Aim the end of the return line into bucket/pail/container of some soft. Than, get a few quarts of new transmission fluid ready (and a funnel, so your ready to pour it in).
4. Than, have a buddy start the truck up and shift it into neutral (its my understanding the transmission fluid pump doesn't operate in "park"). Pour in new fluid at the same appx. rate as old fluid is coming out.
5. You will be able to see when the old fluid is all gone. At that point, have your friend shut the truck off.
6. Reconnect the return line.
7. Clean up any messes (and I'm sure there will be )
8. Check the transmission fluid level, just to make sure it registers on the dipstick. (Only add fluid if none appears on the dipstick)
9. Take the truck for a spin. Get the fluid all warmed up. Than, check the transmission fluid level IAW proper procedures (engine idling and warmed up, transmission in neutral, on level ground) only now is it OK to add transmission fluid to the "FULL" mark.

Note: ONLY use ATF+3 or ATF+4 in 1989 and later Chrysler automatic transmissions. Damage can/will result from failing to use proper fluid.

 

local lube place (valvoline) did it for 124.99 ttech flush. i had the rear differential done for an additional 39.99, its good to get that done at the same time as either condensation over time or one deep puddle gets water in there. i wouldnt do the tranny with out one of those flushing machines. atf4

 

In my opinion dodgerules86's method is superior for a coupla reasons.

When you drop the pan you remove the solid debris from the trans. Metal shavings stuck on the filter and magnet stay in the trans with a machine flush, they can even be stirred up.

When I refill the trans I know whats going back in, ATF+4. Some places like the "Dextron with an additive" even if you specify ATF+4.

Its cheaper.

I've been doing mine the self flush way lately and am pleased with the results.

 

when we done it at school (machine) we dropped the pan cleaned it put new filter on filled the pan with 4-5 quarts and then filled the machine and then machine flushed it that way..and that works well. if done right a machine is easier and less messy if you have one

 

However, most of the time, when you take it to a shop and tell them "Flush my transmission" they will NOT replace the filter. You can flat-out ask them this and that is their "not trying to hide anything" answer. And, to top it off, if you have them replace the transmission filter with a flush, it usually adds around $100 to the bill.

Like olbuddyjack said, some places will say "what we're gonna do is refill your transmission with Dexron and add an additive." They will claim the additive will change the chemical properties of the Dexron into an ATF+3 (or ATF+4) compatible. They are wrong, and probably don't know any better (which is not necissarily their fault). Research has proven that these additives do not siffeciently change the properties to ATF+3 or ATF+4 specifications. If they tell you "well just add an additive and you'll be fine" after you bring up this fact, just LEAVE and go somewhere else. Also, if in doubt, have them show you the bottles of fluid before and after they add it to your transmission.
There is a reason why Chrysler recommends/requires ATF+4 (ATF+3 can be used on these older transmissions, but +4 is recommended) in their transmissions. They made it, they know whats best for it.

 

Actually..there is an additive out there that will work in our trannys. my uncle (tranny builder) uses it in his dakotas with the over drive and its working my cousins D150 truck has over 400k on stock tranny granted it just went out but he put a built 360 in it and you can't expect it to hold with that kind of power. They use Archer Dextron 3

 

You see, I always like to error on the side of safety, especially when dealing with someone elses $2000 transmission .

Two pages for you to read: One, two. (On link two, pay attention to section 2, paragraph 7, 8, and 13)

Bottom line: just buy ATF+3 or ATF+4 if you have an 1989 or newer truck and an automatic transmission. It doesn't get much simpler than that.