Walked out to my '00 Ram 2500 last Friday to a puddle of brake fluid at the right rear wheel.
This weekend (after the tow home) I replaced the wheel cylinder. Bled all but one of the wheels (starting right rear, left rear) the got to right front and the bleed screw is toast. Tried vibration and Kroil (which got the left front freed up) but I'm about to trash it if I go any further- put a wire inside the bleed hole and used vise grips to no avail... Then bled left front.

After all that almost zero braking, pedal to the floor. Could not being able to bleed the right front result in zero braking?
I'm also wondering, the truck sat overnight with a leaking cylinder and the reservoir ran dry. Need to bleed the master again, is that the likely problem?

 

You most certainly still have air in the system...... I would also be checking fluid level as well. You may have more than one problem.

Front and rear circuits are separate. Probably still just trapped air in the rear lines.

 

My early brake training before I ever got out of school taught me that if the bleeder is stuck, replace or rebuild the cylinder or caliper. You've definitely got air in the system. It doesn't take much to remove brake pressure from the pedal.

 

It's obviously dependent upon the level of rust but I've had great results with LH drill bits in bleeders.

Still, the leaking rear shouldn't have much affected front and I also wonder if you'll need to bench bleed the master.

 

Update with some more info...
Bled the master cylinder, did burp some air. Re-bled all three wheels that I could. Again, can't bleed right front- but I don't think this is the main issue here.
With ignition off, pedal is firm. Drops slowly to the floor when engine is turned on so booster is operating properly.

However... when I turn on the engine- and press the pedal- it goes to the floor and the "brake" and "abs" idiot lights light up on the dash.
Turn off the engine. Restart, brake and abs lights are off- until I press the pedal and they immediately light up.

No codes.

There's gotta be air in there somewhere. ABS module? I can't find any info in the service manual for bleeding the ABS module?
Heeeelllppp....my wife's tired of me taking her truck every day

ETA: Is there a method to manually bleed the ABS, or does it need to be done by scanner? I can buy a scanner capable of bleeding the abs for way less than the cost of a tow and having the shop push the buttons...

 

Are you getting good fluid flow to the rear when you bleed them? Do you have a second warm body to help you?? If you do, have warm body pump the pedal, you crack open a bleeder, just enough so that it flows decent, put your finger over it, while warm body pumps. That moves fluid a LOT faster, so any air in the system doesn't have a chance to re-collect at high points in the system. Bleed 'em again like that, one wheel at a time, standard order, checking fluid level after each one.

 

Exactly how I did it with wifey in the front seat
Good flow, a little air at first which I expected after disconnecting from the master. Pulled about 4 oz of fluid from each before topping the reservoir and moving to the next one

 

Chances are good the entire line going to the rear was empty by the time you got the system buttoned back up again...... I will usually do the pumping thing until I get good solid flow, of clean fluid, and then a couple more pumps.

if the system builds pressure with the engine off, have wifey pump up the pressure, and hold it, while you check for leaks somewhere.... I chased a problem like this for a couple hours, before I realized that one of my fittings further up was leaking...... (helps when you actually tighten them down..... ) It wasn't much of a leak, but, engine off, good brakes. Start the engine. Pedal on the floor.....

 

I see I also have a height sensing proportional valve at the rear frame (which the manual says is only on 4wd, which mine is not), more "stuff" for air to get trapped.
Will keep on bleeding and checking for leaks...

 

That valve was a flash-in-the-pan feature for dodge. It didn't last long.... and most folks simply bypass it.