Wierd Electrical Problem, PCM, ABS Module. Please at least look.

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#11

03-05-2017, 08:30 PM

Peterdurango98

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Hey guys

I have a dodge durango 1998.
The problem I have is a very rough idle and gas smell.
I place a other PCM and the first start it runs fine. After I shut off to fill the power steering fluid and start again, it start again with rough idle and gas smell.
I have already replace the sparkplugs, ignition coil, TPS.
After all i park the truck and take out the negative wire from the batery.
The next day i place the negative wire again and start and the engine runs fine. I tested it for like 15 minutes and when I drive and when i drive rough the cruise get on and then the check engine light.
Then it start with the rough idle again. I turn off the truck and after 10 minutes I start again and runs fine.
What can be the problem?

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#12

04-19-2018, 11:59 AM

Danny Chis

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99 dodge ram 2500 all sorts of electrical problems

Truck wont crank and blower motor and windows dont work, abs light is on and Speedo isn't working. I put a push button start on it and the truck starts up no problem. So i thought it might be the ignition switch so i put in a new one and its still doing the same thing. Please if anyone has had any experience with this id greatly appreciate some advice.

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#13

04-19-2018, 03:54 PM

HeyYou

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny Chis

You need to post in the 2nd gen Ram section.

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#14

04-24-2018, 03:47 AM

flyboydale54

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Dodge Caravan Common Repairs to Injectors and Transmission Issues:

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Originally Posted by flyboydale54

On my newly purchased used 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L, I have experienced a whole lot of just set codes to the tune of 17 of them. All relate to low or high inputs and low 5 volt supply, as well as injectors 5 and 6 open code. Something is up with the injectors because injectors 1 through 4 measure the normal 12 ohms. Injectors 5 and 6 measure only 6 ohms. The van now runs very rich and smells strong with unburned fuel coming out the exhaust. I want to thank you very much for posting such a detailed diagnostic procedure for checking the low 5 volt supply, which is one of the 17 codes stored. Very well written and very good at burning the procedure into my brain that seems to learn a little slowly at times yet I fully understand why the procedure was written with such detail. I like the fact it reiterates over and over again about the bus not being able to handshake with the PCM if the 5 volt supply is low. I really needed this procedure and have been searching for a few days now to find such an article. Only thing left is to find all the sensors to unplug one at a time. Thanks to my electronics technician schooling, I can digest this very well and also really appreciate the help in getting me well on my way to finding the problem with my van. Strange thing that it ran pretty nice for a few hundred miles after I bought it but the problems began to surface gradually until it barely would run. Punching holes in my Catylytic Converter is what allowed it to stay running enough to drive it home 15 miles. Still runs rough and rich, but it will run as long as the RPM's are between about 2500 and 3500 RPM's. Part I do not know about is the fact it will shut down after reaching nearly 4000 RPM's and come back up and shut off and back on and off and on, etc. Normally I find this RPM Limiter to be only if the Van is in Park or Neutral but not if the van is in gear. Mine is doing this whether it is in gear or park or neutral. That part still puzzles me, but I do know this Van suddenly began acting up badly and with so many codes set, nearly baffled me entirely until reading a few articles and watching some YouTube Videos. Thank you everyone for all your kind unselfish postings to help others wanting to fix their vehicles. Your all a very valuable asset to people like myself that has little money to work with and likes to diagnose to the component level without wasting money on needless parts. :-))

The reason the #5 & #6 Injector code says they are open and the reason the ohms only measure 6 ohms on the #5 & #6 Injector is because the wire harness in back of the exhaust manifold behind the rear head that goes from the Injectors to the Engine Control Module (ECM) are shorted from melting of the insulation inside that injector wire harness. When the wires short together, this places the two injectors in parallel circuit wise. Two resistors in parallel are half the resistance which a course in Electricity will teach you. I had the same problem. Barely got it into my aunts driveway when it quit and would not start. My vehicle is a Dodge 2002 Grand Caravan Sport. This is a very common problem. This is what I did to fix it. I removed the wiring harness from the injectors and unplugged the large plug on the drivers side of the engine where this injector wiring harness connects to, which then goes to the ECM, and removed the covering on the injector wiring harness. The result was I found the burned melted off insulation. The dealer told me that that simple little wiring harness would cost well over $400. He sold me a kit that was for a different connector on the vehicle that he had in stock for about $30 that used the same wire terminals that mounted into the large wiring block. The connector terminals were crimped onto a wire plenty long enough to do the repairs of replacing each of the wires coming out of the connector block on the right side of the engine. In fact, I had to cut some of the excess wire off each of the wires. I replaced them all which was easy to do and only required me to disengage each terminal from the terminal block and splice each wire together one at a time so as not to mix them up. I put heat shrink tubing onto the wires before twisting them in opposite directions for the splice, then soldered with rosin core solder each of the splices and then heated the heat shrink to shrink it tight around the splice with enough over lap to ensure they would not move and expose the wire. For added caution, I placed each splice in a different location so the splices were not across from each other. Then I wrapped black cloth electrical tape around the wire harness, followed by some split wire loom and then taped the same cloth tape over the split wire loom. Then I went to NAPA Auto Parts and got me a pack of 2 heat resistant sleeves to 1200 degrees F and slipped them over the injector harness. Since there was 2 of these in the package, I slipped one in side of the other and used several wire ties (metal ones best) to secure them over the injector wire harness. These heat resistant sleeves are designed for the spark plug wire boots on street rods. My van had 220K miles on it when I repaired the injector wire harness and not has over 370K miles on it, so it all worked like a charm. i am very fussy when it comes to wiring and doing splices. I DO NOT use crimp on connectors to splice. They are a source of problems later down the road. The trick here is to isolate that wire harness from the heat coming off the rear exhaust manifold so the wire does not become heated and melted with brittle insulation in the future. If you do not use these heat resistant sleeves over the wire harness where it comes around the rear head of the engine and in close proximity the exhaust manifold, you are wasting your time. Replacing the wire harness entirely with a new one also wastes your time and money because they will fail all too quickly from the heat of the engine. There were thousands of Caravan's suffering this problem and failures were noticed from 40K miles on up. A recall was never done and the owners were blessed in finding the problem out themselves and paying for the repairs. When I looked up the resistance value of an injector the specs said 12 ohms. Once I removed the injector wire harness though each injector measured 12 ohms, but with the wires connected to the injectors the #5 & #6 injectors measured 4 ohms. This is why I knew these two wires in the wire harness was shorted together in parallel, which is what happens when two identical resistors are placed in parallel. If you place 2 identical resistors in series, then the ohms will double. I am sure glad I took an Electronic Technician's Program at an adult BOCES and learned this theory as well as many others which allows me to diagnose and repair my own vehicles. I cold never afford to take my cars to a garage, which many do not even have a clue on how to diagnose and repair newer cars with electronic technology. A lot of otherwise nice Caravans went to the salvage yard because of this problem. Just to throw in a little extra that is a common problem on these Caravans is when the gear selector lamps all get a square around them and the vehicle goes into the limp-in mode and will not shift out of 2nd gear and will store several transmission codes. This will allow you to drive home generally if you keep the speed between 30 and 35mph to keep the RPM's below 2800. To fix that problem, change the Transmission Control Module (TCM) that salt attacks the aluminum housing and gets inside them, causing this problem. No fix to these, just remove the negative battery cable and replace the TCM, then erase the codes and presto, problem fixed. I always erase my codes first. None came back, but when I erased them prior to replacing the TCM, all the transmission codes came back before I left the driveway. You can thank Dodge for placing that TCM behind the plastic wheel well insert, still exposed to the winter road grime. Too bad they did not make a kit to relocate this TCM Module to a protected environment. There was a poem I once read in college, "Victim Of Design", which points to Dodge engineers selling far more parts and vehicles than necessary. One of my careers in life after graduating from this Electronic Technician Program was repairing Navigation/Communication Aircraft Radios to the component level. This is why I repair my own vehicles to the component level.

Last edited by flyboydale54; 04-24-2018 at 03:52 AM. Reason: added clarity

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