In order to install lunchbox style lockers, how much disassembly and reassembly of the rear end is necessary.. Is this something I can do in my garage, or will it require me to re-set my gearing (backlash, endplay, etc..)??

A couple weeks ago I swapped axles, oil seals, wheel bearing in the back of a ford 8.8".. I'm familiar with the innards of a rearend, but I don't have any of the specialty tools needed to allign the ring and pinion gears..

I'm more inclined to get a locker if I can install it myself, as opposed to buying a $500 locker, and then spending another $300 to get it installed.. Paying that much I may as well re-gear while I'm at it and get it all over with at once..

this is going to get expensive [:@]

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

 

well I found my own answer to the question.. so incase others are interested, its a pretty straight forward install..

Here is one install step by step on a Dana 30
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...5&posted=1

And this is a way to instal it without removing the ring gear from the rear diff. Its about halfway down the page
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...y/Lockers2.htm


Hope this is useful to somebody else besides me

 

Ok, from what I read about Powertrax lockers on some off-road forums is that they're awesome lockers.. Work well, nobody had a horror story, and they are a good price..

My question is should I get a No-Slip extreme traction ot the Lock-right

The powertrax website says the No-Slip one is for a vehicle that is more often street driven compared to the Lock-right.. My question is, for the $100 difference (the lock right being cheaper), why would I buy a locker that is "less capable"? Will it get damaged by street use? If so then it isn't as strong (IMO)..

I don't plan on doing some extreme rock crawling where 100000% locked will make or break me, but for $100 less I'm inclined to get the heavier duty unit..

your thoughts please...

 

The difference between the two is probably going to be how noticeable it is on the street. Even though both are very noticaeable. Don't believe anything you've read from people who say they do not even notice the locker is back there. These lockers expose every ounce of play in your rear end from the backlash to driveline play to any play in the transfer case. You will feel it every time you press or let off the gas pedal in the form of a clunk. The manual that comes with the No-Slip will tell you that. It was so annoying that I took the no-slip out of my jeep and sold it. I won't even put one back in eventhough all I do is rock crawl it and the only street it sees is between trails.

What I ended up doing was putting a lunchbox locker in the front and leaving the rear open. Works better off road anyways.

If you're bent on having a locker in the rear for street use, I'd give it a try and if you hate it like I did, you can always sell them things on eBay for nearly what you paid for it. If you only want the locker for extra traction when you do hit the dirt, I'd consider putting one in the front instead if you have a Dana 30...then you don't even know its there until you put it in 4wd.

Sorry for the rant...

To answer your question, I wouldn't waste the hundred bucks on the no-slip...its pretty much the same thing as the lock right. One things for sure, one is not tougher than the other. Both will stand up to all the abuse you could ever throw at them. If the no-slip is better, its only going to be in the smoothness of operation. That's why they recommend it for the street.

 

thanks desertracer for the insight

I'm looking to get a locker both for off-road traction, and some on road in the snow I get up here in Southern Ontario. Right now I think i have a chrysler 8.25 open diff (don't quote me on that, I havent ripped through the owner manual to find out for certain), however I can tell you that she fails the 2 wheel peel test..I don't want to be forced into using 4wd all the time on and offroad. I'm looking for traction with even 2wd.. Its a real PITA going from 2-4wd around here because the city is really spurratic when what streets get plowed.. I'd rather not risk binding and other driveline issues by having to slip it into 4wd to turn right at a stop sign..

I won't be seeing off-road as much as I'd truly love to be doing, I might get to for a few hours every weekend (best case-scenario), but its gonna be a DD too.. Soooo I'm stuck between a rock and a hardplace.. crappy on the road, or lame open diffs off road.. no matter what I do as far as lift and tires go, open diffs will still leave me stuck in the mud..

I think I'll look into what people say about having a locked DD.. I could just buy it and sell it again, but I'd like to hear some opinions before I do..

 

if you go with powertrax, pick the noslip over the lockright.
install is pretty easy, here's lots of tips and pics.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_697667/tm.htm

check prices here.
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/

 

This is more money ( isin't it always) but I would get a air or electric locker, there when you need it but does not interfere with streetability ( so the mags say )!! I know I shouldn't always believe what I read but they make it sound soooo gooooooood

 

There is a lock-right on ebay right now for $16.. I'm gonna bid on it... worst case scenario I don't like it and I'm out 25$ (assuming I don't sell it)...

very good write up, really impressed..
Thanks againfor the link

 

What is the difference between the two of these?
http://store.summitracing.com/compar...4294902619+115

edit.. The difference is whether or not the stock case is open or limited slip.. my 1 wheel peeling suggests open to me

 

$16 bucks sweet deal, if you don't like it you can alway's get that and probably more back.......Good luck!