Hi all,

Have a 98 SLT with 5.2 that's in need of a new A/C compressor (bad clutch bearing). Since this motor was offered with and w/o air, I was wondering if anybody out there knows the routing diagram for the non-A/C version and if I bought the shorter serp belt ,if this would work short term while I save my pennies for a new compressor / freon charge ... Any pitfalls that somebody knows of would be appreciated as well.

Thanks

 

There is a diagram on a sticker under the hood either on the hood or the front clip that shows the routing.

There is no issues that I am aware of with the removal of the compressor pulley as long as the shorter belt is used.

 

Thanks for the response !

I noticed the routing diagram under the hood ,but you never know about these Dodge engine guys ...

It looks like a straight forward elimination.. the pulley is basically a bump upin the belt route and the shorter belt should run straight across to next pulley in line.

 

You got it!

I checked everything else and found nothing different except the belt.

 

All good except one thing .... [:@]

The shorter belt is not long enough ... I routed the belt exactly as shown , ran the tensioner always to its stop and it lacksat least 1-2" from being able to clear onto the last pulley ...

Apparently the good folks at Dodge had a different configuration for the non-A/C 318 (5.2) and simply eliminating the a/c pulley will not do.

NAPA online shows a A/C compressor Bypass pulley for about the same money as the new belt (which my good friends at Advance auto parts will be getting back tomorrow) ...

Why can't these things be easy []

 

WOW!

I can't believe that!

Maybe they used different pulleys??? Well you can always get a longer belt or do what you are talking about. Just sounds strange?????

 

My guess is that maybe to make room for the A/C compressor, they had to move the power steering pump a little further away from the block. that's the only thing that makes sense to me. Either that or I got a short belt somehow...

I am going to check the belt they gave me against another one(they claimed to have 2 in stock) and make sure it's the length they say it's supposed to be (88.5") but the part number ends in "885" on the sleeve and on the belt itself , so I'm 99.9% sure it's correct... my original belt part number ends in 9725 for 97.25" usable length.

But just in case, I ordered the pulley bypass this morning ... same money butI'll have to pull the compressor to mount it. (will have to do that anyway but was hoping to avoid the headache associated with that until I was ready to swap compressors)...

I'll let you know how it goes in ...

 

NAPA A/C Pulley Bypass Kit is in ... It worked reasonably well (aside from the bolts included being the wrong length AND the wrong thread - they included 6.5 MM bolts and it was a 1/4 thread) It must be a somewhat generic kit for ANY 318.

However, the quality of thecastingleaves a bit to be desired.

It's a cast aluminum plate with a plastic pulley with a bearing molded into it. I had to use the shim washer to get the pulley to line up properly but the tolerances on the cast hub are terrible ... the bearing spins free freely but the whole pulley wobbles slightly under tensionbecause the hub is slightly undersized compared to the inner race of the pulley bearing . May opt to wrap some shim stock on the huband try to tighten the inner race to the shaft .

ANYWAY , it looks like a cost effective way to keep on driving when your A/C compressor gives up the ghost. But being MADE IN CHINA , ya get what you pay for !!!

So, I wrapped it up,loaded thekiddies and the missus up to go out for ice cream , put $30 in gas in the D's tank ... and ...

wait for it ....





I walked out the gas station and find a puddle of green under the passenger side of the vehicle.

Apparently , the heater core was mad at me for removing it's friend / co-worker
Mr. A/C compressor and decided to puke all over me for it. Fog on the windshield ,out of the heater ducts , puddle on the passenger floor ... the whole 9 yards ..

My question is this ... Is there anything to make you think that I caused the core to rupture by eliminating the compressor ? Basically, my thoughts are that all the two systems have in common in the ductwork and blower and not having the compressor should not affect the cooling system at all.

Seems like is this just a case of incredibly bad timing ?

So now , in addtion to having no A/C , I'm going to have to bypass the heater core too. (since I don't have a spare week and two good friends to change coresOR a second mortgage to pay somebody to do it).

Might be time to wave the white flag on this car ...

 

I had to bypass the A/C in my dak. and I found out that the shorter belt was too short. the belt you need it 3" longer then the shorter belt. I forget what size it actuall is. but I know I went to the parts store 3 times[:@]

and to by pass the heatercore, just connect both hoses to each other.

 

WAIT WAIT WAIT!!! Durangoboy, save your hard earned money!
My a/c clutch bearing went bad several weeks ago, and no, nobody lists just the clutch! Not really getting very aroused at the thought of shelling out for a comp and recharging hassles I decided to consume several adult beverages and have a think! lol
Obviously, the comp and clutch assembly do not drop from trees or sprout from the dirt fully assembled....... someone or something has to put it together from various parts!
With the knowledge that at worse I would completely screw up the comp and have to buy a new one anyway..... out came the wrenches and a ac clutch puller!..... A little more Coors light, and after removing the serp belt and the radiator fan for direct line access....... I had in my hand the clutch assembly..... the comp was still bolted firmly in place on the motor and was still fully charged!
I removed the worn out bearing from the clutch assembly and cleaned the outer bearing race to get the bearing number. Kragen autoparts in Modesto Ca, about 15 miles from me, had one in stock! DUly fitted this new bearing to the clutch assembly and refitted everything.
It has been working perfectly! All for the cost of a few hours work by myself and $43 for the new bearing!
Go for it, straightforward repair and very satisfying! Incidentally, I used the Autozone store tool rental to get the a/c clutch pulling tool!