i will thank you jeff....

 

no problem, let me know how it goes when you climb under it.

 

from all the issues your d has, i'd take take a different approach.

1.getthose ball joints first, major saftey issue here. then the bearings and then the tranny mount. cost of a funeral if something lets loose on the highway is a hell of a lot more than $1900.

2. never ever send the wife (unless she has mechanical ability andis able to tell them their full of &^%$) to get a quote on vehicle repair. the mechanics smiled when they saw her coming thru the door. cha ching.

3. all these other issues can wait untill your d is safe for your wife.

 

i am working on gettign all the parts together that i listed to replace, she knows they are important and we are getting the parts together now... its going to be awrench holiday weekend for me, lol..... she better buy me some good soda :P

she's tripping about the CEL though because its due for smog by the end of the month, and shes already past due on registration, its paid, but she has a 7 red welfare tag from dmv.....


autozone doesnt carry the direct fit... thats odd... kragens does, but wants $200!!!!

called allied auto parts around here, and they have the one i want, direct fit, for $85, in stock, no splicing made by nippon denso..... denso is oem on my toyota, and i think they have high quality parts..... i am going with that one.....

 

is there a way to reset the CEL without a code reader? i tried the disconnecting the battery thing and swear i jacked the car up more.....

 

ok, i have a new login now.... i tried to get the emails sent to my cellphone to update, but it truncates the email into a text message, and now i am locked out of the forum because of the no activation id stuff.....

i am now explrcnvrtbl formerly know as jimbo74..... or if a mod could take care of this for me?

 

ok... sooo.... how hard is the hub to change out? i assume its pretty simple, just basically unbolt it right? or will i need a slide hammer? or?

 

bringing this back up from the dead......


going to do the upper and lower balljoints this weekend....

we did the o2 sensor, and all was better, denso was actually the oem one that was in there too... diff part numbers, but it snapped in, and light stayed off when i rest it....

how hard is the hub to replace?

i looked @ the balljoints, and hte new ones bolt in, the oems are riveted, i'm ok with that, i have a die grinder and a air chisel with a 30ish gallon tank and a 5hp compressor on it

 

hmm ball joints, ive heard both ends on those, mine were done by the stealership under recall, if they havnt been done yet check to see if the dealer will cover those they should if the recall has NOT been done yet, (if they are riveted go bitch to the dealer and make them do it, save yourself alot of trouble)

 

^ I agree, then when they go out again (which they will, it only took 2 years for my new ones to crap out) you can just unbolt them and slap some Moogs in there. If you haven't bought your new ball joints go to www.rockauto.com they have lifetime warranties on their Moogs and a good price and good customer service. Also on the hub it is an easy swap and since you're tackling the ball joints you have to take it out anyway.