Hi everyone,

I have a 2000 D SLT+ 4x4 with the 4.7 and need to replace the rotors like clockwork every 15-20k. My wife (very mellow driver) put most of the 107,000 miles on it and was doing 95% highway driving. As soon as the odometer rolls another 15-20k, I start feeling pulseing in the pedal and in the steering wheel. New rotors, problem gone until the next cycle (now on the 6th set). Anyone else have this problem? I now keep a spare set in the garage, and it's a 10 minute job to swap them, but I am tired of it. Would super wowie cross drilled slotted brembo turbo charged rotors help or should I stick with the Napa budget $60 specials and just turn them until thier toast?

Thanks

 

Common concern on Durango/Dakota and Jeep Grand Cherokee. The OE rotors are about the best you can buy.

 

That still does not sound right tho. Why would the rotors wear out so early? My Durango is riding at 57k miles and I still have my original rotors and pads!!! I have not had to turn the rotors and replace the pads yet. My pads still have over 50 percent surface left. Then again, I learn when and how to apply the brakes to make the brakes last a long time as well. It may be your wife have bad braking habits? Maybe you may want to see how your wife brakes the Durango when she comes to a stop? She may be doing a very hard last second stop at every light and stop sign, thus overheating and prematuring brake wear??? Know alot of people that are like that.

I had a 85 Shelby Charger (1st owner) before my R/T and I had up to 87k on it before I sold it. The rotors were still original, only turned once. Pads were replaced once.

 

Kensai,
Your correct, but the thing is both my wife and I are fairly mild drivers. Her being more so than I. That's what bugs me. I race motorcycles as a hobby and understand how overheating brakes can be an issue. I have ridden many miles with the wife, and I have very little objections to her driving. The only thing I can think of is that I like my D PERFECT in every way! The second somthing rattles, squeaks, or I have a feeling about, it is resolved NOW! Yep, ****. Nobody has ever eaten or drank anything in my D and the leather look like new. Did tote some dogs once, and a christmas tree, took me months to get every hair and needle out of the carpet. So maybe most driver are coming to a stop (gradually) and feeling, with constant pedal pressure, a more/less/more/less..... braking feel and pay no attention, thus making me De **** Meister. Or I have sucsessfully purchased or had changed under warrenty 6 sets of crap rotors. Still dont know.
I heard about a $5k brembo set up that would take the 11" to 13" or maybe 14" for the D, but sadly that's more than half the value of the car. Spent 32K new on her, and I'll be the one taking it to the grave with me. Hopefully that's 300k or more. (I know, your going yea right!) Anyway, let me know when you need brakes, 57k and going strong is great. I have a Ford F-350 thats nearly 300k miles and on its second set.
thanks for your reply.

 

Does that 2000 have disc breaks all around? If not I would make sure that the rear drums are atleast working. My drums on my 98 sometimes done engage all the way which ends up causing premature wear on the fronts.

 

The rotors don't wear out, they just warp from heat. It sucks and thats just the way it is. You can upgrade the braking system to a set of Brembos or even retro some Viper stuff on but that gets $$$.

Actually late braking is easier on brakes than your brake early and light method.

 

Mine stress crack. I adjust the rear drums every time I do the front brakes and they work properly. I think the problem lies in the size of the rotors. I think they are too small to stop all that weight. Im on my third set of rotors at 135k miles. I just but the O'Reilleys lifetime rotors and take them back for free replacement when they wear.

 

Have a 2003 Durango, already replaced front pads and rotors at 24000 miles.

 

I have warped rotors. I just picked up a set of Roto-tech drilled and slotted rotors with hawk pads. I hope they don't warp like the OEM's.

 

No, they will crack instead.