I have a 99 dodge durango 5.9L with alot of miles on it. Recently, its been having a starting issue. It starts every time, but really works the starter. When you go to start it, it will turn over maybe 10 or more times before she runs. It has a fresh fuel filter, but seems it may not be getting enough fuel from the start. Any ideas?
Oh, now when it gets started, something squelches for about 10 minutes, but goes away after driving for a while. Tried belt dressing, but didn't help. Hard to pin point the sound without getting my head caught in the fan. PS Pump maybe?

 

Belt dressing sucks in my opinion. It's good or bad and that is just that.

I question the fuel filter. In our rigs the regulator, filters, and pump are all one unit and it is located in the tank.

When was the last time you did a full tune up and what name brand parts did you install? Please include what parts you replaced?

 

I actually didn't replace the F filter myself. The previous owner, freind of mine, said it was just replaced. I know what you mean by all in one unit. I had a blazer that had the Fuel Pump, reg, and filter just downstream in the tank. I was just talking with my freind, and he says its probably the fuel pump going again. I guess he replaced it before with one from a salvaged durango, which I personally avoid doing. Thats must be the fuel filter he's talking about. Last full tune up, lets say its in need. Up to date that Ive done, oil/filter, pcv, air filter. I plan on replacing plugs, dist rotor, wires, check/adjust timing, and replace IAC. I've done alot of tune ups on imports, mustangs, GM's, but am newer to the mopar world. Anything else you can suggest for these SUV's? The Truck has 168000 on it.

 

The timing is controlled by the PCM. You can clean the IAC solenoid and it should work just fine. While your at it take off the tb and clean the black carbon off.Take all sensors off then clean it. Put your sensors back on and set the TPS between .70 to .75, by volt testing the middle wire. Closer to 75 if possible. Champion plugs, oxygen sensors, MSD wires.

 

i think this are the probably reason on your problem

1. the Battery is going bad - Load Test
2. Alternator is going bad - Test for 14/13V across the battery when running
3. Stuck brushes in the starter
4.There is back pressure in the cylinders causing the engine to semi-lock
______________________
Check Ford E350 Fuel Filter

 

A load test of the battery and charging test is a good idea. Auto Zone will do this for free out at your truck in the parking lot. Takes 2 min.

The timming is controled by the PCM and it gets it's information from the Camshaft Sensor located in the distributor under the cap and rotor. You cannot change it. But I think if you just do a tune up, it will help.

Regular Champion plugs gapped .040 (these are the $1.50 regular plugs)
OEM or MSD 8.5mm wires.
Cap and Rotor (get the upgraged Brass Contacts)
Clean the TB and sensors.
O2 Sensors might be going out.

 

The Battery and alternator I bought brand new about 5 months ago, so they should be good. I did test the battery since and and under load It read 11.7v so seems good. When I checked the plugs a while ago, they were gapped at .04 or very close to it. I have also sprayed the TB with TB cleaner and she is free of gunk. The IAC was filthy, so I did clean it, but it still seemed to be in rough shape.
Now as far as the timing, I dont think it has to due with the starting issue, but maybe the lowsy idle issue. I just changed out a dist. in a nissan since its Cam Pos. Sensor went out due to oil leaking into dist. When I threw the new dist. in, the car started and idled fine. But driving, performance was lacking, and occasional backfire. On the nissan, I turned the dist about 2 deg. clockwise,(until the timing marks lined up with light) and the idle raised slightly, the the car runs perfect. On the durango, can you not adjust the dist, or does the pcm due all of that?
I'll go ahead and change the wires, plugs, rotor and cap, but is there a way to see if the O2 sensors are actually bad. Should the through a code?

 

Did you actually take the tb off and clean it or did you just spray cleaner down the ports?
The PCM controls the timing. your O2 sensors are at there wost when they throw a code, so the could need to be changed before you get a code

 

I actually removed and cleaned the hell out of the tb. Thanks for the Info on the timing, all cars seems to be different, and the newer they are, the more over my head. I'm more of a learn as I go mechanic. At 168000 miles, I think your right to say just replace the o2's. Thanks man.

 

Ok on timming:

The distributor can move. Althought the PCM controls the timming by way of the camshaft possition sensor (which you might need) you can however fine tune the distributor into it's right position. If you are off a degree or two that's ok but not efficent. This can only be done by way of access to the computer. Dealer or so forth.

The other thing we can talk about is a streched timming chain. However, in your case I would do the tune up now first!