I am having a problem with hot starts. With in about 3 minutes of a hot start, if I go more than 1/4 throttle, I get some hesitation... Pretty bad too... But after that one time of going over 1/4 throttle, it is fine for the rest of the drive... I was testing the TPS. At idle, I am getting a reading of .68-.71 volts which from what I understand is the optimum range. At WOT, the voltage only goes up to 3.7V... That is almost a whopping full 1V from the maximum... I feel that my 1999 Durango with the 5.2L is a little slower than it should be... I had a 92 Dakota with a 5.2 and it was much peppier... I feel this may be part of the problem, is the TPS... What do you guys think?

I got the Durango about 1 month ago. So far I had to change the water pump and soon the ball joints. I was getting 95* air out of my heater... So today I did a flush... My god... The coolant in the system is BRIGHT green from me just changing the pump... What I flushed out of the heater core, looked like something out of a port-a-potty... Now I am getting 175 degree air! No more cold winter for me!! This isn't my first Dodge and I am NOT affraid to do any work... Unless it is body work... I leave that to the pro's... Just wanting to say "Hi" and if anyone needs help in the Olympia, Washington area, I'll be MORE than happy to do so!

 

Neo:

TPS might be part of your issue, but usually if they are bad or going out, the symptom is consistent, not there for just a cycle or two.

At the age of your D, it would not hurt to replace it anyway due to age.

BTW, how many miles on the D??? You will want to do the cooling system every 34-40k, or it will look like what you found in there. This can lead to clogged radiator/heater cores which surely are a PIA.

Also, tranny drain and refill/filter every 30k along with T case and diffs.
If you go with synthetic for the diffs, you can probably make that one 50k. When I pulled the Mobil 1 from mine after 30k, it looked too good to throw out.

At 30k, the OEM dino stuff looked like dino dung!!!

At 60k, I put in Royal Purple to give that a try.



Don

 

I'd set the idle at .75v and WOT should be at 4.5v.


BTW<----Start with a new sensor.

 

+2 on what Hydra and N8 said.
Just something to keep on your mind, if you flushed out the heater core and it looked that rusty... it may go out on you in the future.
So keep up with the maintenance and try to stay away from flooring it... it may blow when you floor it
that happened to me, Ya dude it suck to spend 820 to get it fixed.
P.S. it's behind the dash.

 

I can't find the write up on the TPS sensor modification??????

Does anyone remember where it is?????

 

Here it is thanks to DR0318,

http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod

 

Yeah, I am having my doubts about the TPS causing the hot start issues... However, I do want the 3.7V issues taken care of... With an input voltage of 5.2V, 3.7V seems like a major drop...

Currently, I don't have a job, so I am doing all work myself... I do plan on doing ALL fluids. I have done a PS flush already... Worst PS fluid I have EVER seen... (Used to work in a shop) Also, in the near future, I am going to have the cooling system professionally flushed and chemicals added... The dealer here uses TAP WATER, but my old shop uses filter/distilled water.

My next project was going to be the diff/tranny fluids... I think the tranny fluid is fairly new... I will do it anyways just for peace of mind. Also, does anyone know where to get the front axle vent tube vent? The one next to the radiator cap? I tried the dealer but I keep getting the wrong part... I am missing the cover and don't want water to get down the tube.

Thanks for the input guys!

Kyle

 

Just get the vent tube from an auto zone or something unless you are looking for the vent on the top of the tube then I think NAPA sells them.

Hot start issues could also be something else but with numbers like that lets start there. Just for ****s and giggles try to mod your old one first. But I think you are going to have to replace it anyway!

 

Use distilled water for a coolant change for sure. And don't forget the trany filter and CORRECT fluid only!

 

Oh yes... I ONLY use OEM or OEM compatible fluids... OEM parts only. I came from a 2001 Audi A4, so parts are still cheap in my eyes! I always got parts at the dealer for the Audi, so why not the D? And yes, it is the vent on top of the tube...