My 1999 Durango cranks for about 5 seconds at cold start and shorter at warm start. When it's cold, I can turn the ignition on and hear the fuel pump run. If I do this three or four times and then try starting, it'll start normally.

Does this indicate a bad fuel pump, or is there some sort of fuel regulator in line that might be bad?

Could it be a filter?

If it's fuel pump, what is the best (least expensive) place to purchase one?

Thanks in advance!

 

just let it set w/ the key on for a couple seconds before you try starting it


i usually tun the key on put my seatbelt on then start it this way it gives the pump a second build pressure and that should fix it try it and see if it helps

 

The regulator, filter, and pump are all one unit. They are located in the tank. If you test the pressure on the fuel rail drivers side port it should be about 50 psi. new is 54 psi. I bought mine at checker and I think it was a Airtex Master and I've put about 40k on it so far. www.rockauto.com has some good deals.

It sounds like a fuel pump. Other than that, have you completed a full tune up and what were the parts used?

Most of what I've seen out there is about $240 and below.

 

Also the check valve might be warn. THis would cause it not to hold pressure. THis has happened before. The user replaced his pump. Remember that the pump has the regulator, pump, valve, and filters all in one unit.

 

Leaving the key on for a period doesn't seem to make a difference. I have to turn it on and off a few times for benefit.

It sounds like it makes sense to replace the whole unit. Rock Auto has four different manufacturers under $225, and then AC Delco at $290. I can get a Carter unit locally at Checkers for $214. Is there a big quality difference between them?

 

Carter is made by Edelbrock. So yes there is a difference. $214 is damn good.

It sounds like a regulator or check valve. If fuel is seaping back into the tank then I can see this happening as the air has to be bled out.

What motor are we working on here?

 

Checkers had the pump at $229, but will price match with a 5% discount. Pep Boys was at $225, so that makes it $214 for me.

I agree with your assessment. It's a 5.9 and it does sound like it's building pressure in the line each time I turn the ignition on before a cold start. I just wish Dodge would have designed a removable access panel above the tank so the tank doesn't have to be pulled.

 

That would have been sweet. The tank is poly so it's light. Remember to flush your tank when you drop it and try to do it with a close to empty tank.

 

Hook up a pressure tester to the fuel rail charge it up to operating pressure (turn your key to the on position a few times don't start the D), and leave the tester on to see if you are losing fuel pressure. I would really look into a check valve being the issue.

Hydra were you saying that it is incorporated into the pump?

If that is the case I would look into possibly installing a standalone check valve in the line rather than replacing the whole pump over a bad check valve. Just make sure that it is big enough so that it won't impede pump flow.

 

A inline check valve would be cheaper but with the mileage I'm sure it's probably on it's last leg anyway. For that matter, one can install a inline pump (which has a valve) but it's not really good on the in-tank one and the filter should be replaced anyway. With the size of the filters (3 of them) on the pump and the way they are set up it appears that at around 100k it should be done in. It's just better to do the whole thing.

Multiple problems have happened to me personally by installing an inline pump in situations just like this or also added pressure to injectors.