I couldn't find a pic of the black finish I'm looking at right now. I'll dig one up or you can google it.

Also I thought about something else. If I rebuild my motor again to incorporate a new accomidation of pistons I would go strait for Flat Top Pistons instead of the dish top. Here's some info to start looking at:

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/p...ed_pistons.htm

 

Those pistons sound great. I was wondering if the roller rockers need any adjustment when they are installed. I read somewhere that the aftermarket lifters may have some oiling issues. Hey guys What about a oil pan is there anybody running a deep oil pan.
Hey Hydra, did that full ignition you have increase MPG's or mainly power.

 

1. After you adjust the rockers which I posted the instructions they should be ok. Sometimes they need a fine tuning or re-adjustment after they ware somewhat maybe 15k but other than that they should stay. In the manual it says how to do the adjustment as well but the one I posted takes a little guess work out of it. Just remember to tighten in the torque order.

2. The only thing different on the lifters is they are a bit of larger diameter and they are stronger than the OEM version. I don't see where a lubrication issue could start.

3. I don't know anyone running a bigger pan but they are available. The thing with them is there is not much room for a larger pan but like I said they make them. They add about 2 quarts. This helps keep the oil cooler as well as add more lubricant availability to the system. Oil changes need to be same as normal intervals tho. Cooler = better longevity and better power under any type of driving situation.

4. As for the ignition. There was a power difference but maybe only 10 horse because of better throttle response and a clean burn so there should be about .5 mpg improvement. I average 15.5 freeway and about 13 in the city. BUT, it totally depends on how heavy my right foot is!
If I'm cheaky then I average 11.4 in the city but that really screwin around.

I have kept around 45-50 mph locked in on the torque converter when going through Yellow Stone National Park and recieved 17.4 MPG running 87 octane. There was some stop and ga as you find yourself looking at the animals or taking pictures, hiking, and ect.

 

BTW<-----If one is looking into the cam replacement all the way to the heads then I would install all roller parts including tapets, rockers, and cam.

 

Cool thanks

 

I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles. The K&N filter gets cleaned as needed. The transmission is power flushed every 35,000 miles. No need to disturb the pan or change the filter. The power flush pushes all of the contaminats out of the filter and ALL of the fluid is changed. This costs $87.50 at a local shop or $165 at the local Dodge dealer. Simple choice there! I have also changed all of the power steering fluid twice in 110,000 miles along with all of the brake fluid. Serpentine belt is changed every 35-40,000 miles along with the plugs. I have not opened up the rear differential and won't until I sense a chatter or slip in the LSD. That's about it. No problems yet.

 

Sounds like someone is up on their maintenance.

 

since post #1 called for mods to improve
longevity and fuel economy
it is sad that
aerodynamics
and
tire rolling resistance
improvements are not being discussed in depth
because they will do both
at low cost ... certainly less than $500

as to engine operation
running with a higher throttle opening
with higher torque
but at a lower rpm (but same hp)
will improve both longevity and fuel economy
.... this involves altering ratios of MPH/1000 rpm
with trans or differential or tire diameter (or all three)

internal engine mods to improve longevity and fuel economy
should center around
friction reduction
dynamic compression ratio increase (detonation limited)
dynamic expansion ratio increase (not detonation limited)

with a $500 mod limit
this becomes challenging
(especially if you price your own labor at some reasonable $/hr)
but a custom porting to equalize all 8 cylinders
milling the cylinder heads to reduce chamber cc's
using a thin head gasket
and getting a custom camshaft grind for your existing camshaft core
is probably do-able

if you succeed in getting all 8 cylinders to within 5% of each other in air/fuel ratio,
so the engine won't get undesirably rough running,
there is up to a 20% possible improvement in fuel economy
with leaning the air to fuel ratio out to the range of 18 to 30
but this does violate the EPA regulations on NOx pollution
and may require expensive
'wide range' oxygen sensor & meter & pcm computer mods

http://www.designnews.com/article/97..._Lean_Burn.php

 

As far as improved MPG performance - you need to weigh the costs of engine mods vs the payback time in fuel economy. I doubt that you will ever see the savings exceed the cost, especially at today's lower fuel prices. No different than buying a new car to replace one that runs good but has years on it. Best thing to do for mileage is keep it tuned up, filters cleaned or replaced and drive sensibly. If you own something like a Durango don't expect to get 25 mpg out of it. It just won't happen.

 

Let's keep on the topic and not go around into other topics. We all know that we bought GAS HOGS but that isn't what this thread is for. We love our trucks here and if I want to throw in $10k I will......... I did, SO!

This thread is not about breaking even but about pure love and simply the title of this thread.

Please stay on topic!