PCV Valve, please identify these pictures..
#1
PCV Valve, please identify these pictures..
Hey folks,
Trying to do some rehab on my Durango. I have a 1999 with 109k miles.
So far, I'd have failures (and replacements) of:
All ball joints
Both front hubs
Steering Box
Tie rod ends
Today, I was going to change the PCV, do an oil change, change air filter, change plugs, and a general inspection as I haven't touche dthe truck in about 4 months.
However, I took a peek this morning and noticed what I thought was the PCV valve was CRACKED IN HALF...
However, on closer inspection, I don't think it is the PCV Valve...there are two similar looking units on both valve covers. One seems to be a PCV valve (unfortunately, on the pass side and NOT what's broken), and the other is unknown and difficult to remove as the plastic is brittle. Could someone have a look at these pictures and identify which is the PCV valve, and if NOT the broken part, what is that?
Thank you, sorry for camera quality took with my phone.
Broken part:
Passenger side:
New PCV valve:
Trying to do some rehab on my Durango. I have a 1999 with 109k miles.
So far, I'd have failures (and replacements) of:
All ball joints
Both front hubs
Steering Box
Tie rod ends
Today, I was going to change the PCV, do an oil change, change air filter, change plugs, and a general inspection as I haven't touche dthe truck in about 4 months.
However, I took a peek this morning and noticed what I thought was the PCV valve was CRACKED IN HALF...
However, on closer inspection, I don't think it is the PCV Valve...there are two similar looking units on both valve covers. One seems to be a PCV valve (unfortunately, on the pass side and NOT what's broken), and the other is unknown and difficult to remove as the plastic is brittle. Could someone have a look at these pictures and identify which is the PCV valve, and if NOT the broken part, what is that?
Thank you, sorry for camera quality took with my phone.
Broken part:
Passenger side:
New PCV valve:
#4
WORD OF ADVICE... Unless you are capable of removing the valve cover/ replacing the seal do not try to remove the broken piece. Quite fragile and with time the seal hardens up so it makes the task nearly impossible without cover removable. The plastic becomes brittle and will not come out in one piece and a piece could end up in the valve train. choo choo
#5
Thanks for the input folks.
Yes, I've got good experience for such stuff, I've always performed all services on my Infiniti q45 (v8 also), so not new to dual valve cover replacements. Will order gaskets tomorrow. As far as epoxy, I only believe in replacing faulty parts when possible...I've had too many bad experiences with car band-aids in my youth.
RTV as well or gasket only? OEM Dodge or aftermarket gaskets a better idea?
Yes, I've got good experience for such stuff, I've always performed all services on my Infiniti q45 (v8 also), so not new to dual valve cover replacements. Will order gaskets tomorrow. As far as epoxy, I only believe in replacing faulty parts when possible...I've had too many bad experiences with car band-aids in my youth.
RTV as well or gasket only? OEM Dodge or aftermarket gaskets a better idea?
Last edited by paranoidjack; 02-04-2009 at 02:52 AM.
#6
OEM should be rubber gaskets.
If cork replace it.
If rubber then apply a small bit of grease to all sides of the gasket and install after cleaning all parts and reuse them unless cracked out.
I prefer rubber because RTV is not used so no mess and no squeeze out of RTV into the valve train.
Any rubber set of gaskets will lat for many years. I bet yours are fine to re-use.
If cork replace it.
If rubber then apply a small bit of grease to all sides of the gasket and install after cleaning all parts and reuse them unless cracked out.
I prefer rubber because RTV is not used so no mess and no squeeze out of RTV into the valve train.
Any rubber set of gaskets will lat for many years. I bet yours are fine to re-use.