4.7 oil consuption
#11
02-22-2009, 04:21 PM
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#12
03-03-2009, 12:13 PM
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TW:
That is a alot of oil for 3-4k miles.
My 01 4.7 is about ready to hit 79k, and so far I feel it uses .5 quart or less between changes.
The 5.2/5.9 motors were known for failed plenum gaskets which would cause horrible oil usage.
You might pull a couple of plugs, and see if you see signs of oil there. The cat convertors these days are so good at what they do, that they can burn off quite a bit of oil and you will see little to nothing out of the tailpipe.
If it is not on the ground, or on the bottom of the rig, valve seals sounds like a good place to look. If you can do them on the car, that could be a an inexpensive remedy. Pulling the heads would be a last resort since it involves so much labor.Don
That is a alot of oil for 3-4k miles.
My 01 4.7 is about ready to hit 79k, and so far I feel it uses .5 quart or less between changes.
The 5.2/5.9 motors were known for failed plenum gaskets which would cause horrible oil usage.
You might pull a couple of plugs, and see if you see signs of oil there. The cat convertors these days are so good at what they do, that they can burn off quite a bit of oil and you will see little to nothing out of the tailpipe.
If it is not on the ground, or on the bottom of the rig, valve seals sounds like a good place to look. If you can do them on the car, that could be a an inexpensive remedy. Pulling the heads would be a last resort since it involves so much labor.Don
Oh well, I'll start from the top and work my way down. Leaks, sludge/Clogged heads, seals. But if those heads come off, Were going to see what that lil ole 4-7 can give up. Because I might as well wring out all the HP's at the core source. Why stop there. aint no use in half assin it. rings,bearings,block,blah,blah,blah,ect..... Where's a 440 when ya need it. Thanks n8
#13
03-08-2009, 03:44 PM
That's what I'm talk'in about. It has gradually gotten worse over time..... probable 1qt. extra per every 50,000 miles added to truck.(150,000 overall). I believe I have done a satistifactory job with the maint. I just figured it should have done a lil better on overall wear. I have always wondered if the oil type (Penn) hasnt been a factor. I have always had good results from an oil if I continue on the same course, allthough I might switch up on the viscosities. Maybe a theory, But when things get well branded I wonder if the quality gets lost along the way. With corp. changes, cost cutting and such.
Oh well, I'll start from the top and work my way down. Leaks, sludge/Clogged heads, seals. But if those heads come off, Were going to see what that lil ole 4-7 can give up. Because I might as well wring out all the HP's at the core source. Why stop there. aint no use in half assin it. rings,bearings,block,blah,blah,blah,ect..... Where's a 440 when ya need it. Thanks n8
Oh well, I'll start from the top and work my way down. Leaks, sludge/Clogged heads, seals. But if those heads come off, Were going to see what that lil ole 4-7 can give up. Because I might as well wring out all the HP's at the core source. Why stop there. aint no use in half assin it. rings,bearings,block,blah,blah,blah,ect..... Where's a 440 when ya need it. Thanks n8
here is a tip
take off the splash guard if it is still there and look at your oil pan at the front, I have seen alot of 4.7 leaking on the front part of the gasket
#15
03-09-2009, 09:55 PM
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In reality,
there should only be at the most 1.1 quart loss per 1000 miles max. The problem could be vapor in the motor mixed with oil. City driving would make it look like there is more oil and then after driving it a longer way like highway miles it could get hot enough to burn off and then you check it and BOOM low oil!
Have you taken care of the Technical Service Bulletin on the oil breather which causes moisture to enter the crank case?
there should only be at the most 1.1 quart loss per 1000 miles max. The problem could be vapor in the motor mixed with oil. City driving would make it look like there is more oil and then after driving it a longer way like highway miles it could get hot enough to burn off and then you check it and BOOM low oil!
Have you taken care of the Technical Service Bulletin on the oil breather which causes moisture to enter the crank case?
#16
03-10-2009, 12:29 AM
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Quick sludge bust=take a can of Seafoam fuel treatment and dump it into a running motor let it idle for 10 mins then change the filter and oil,but let the motor cool down for 10 mins so all the crud drains down to the pan....440? 340TA=power without the weight or a 413 max wedge for that old school style!
#17
03-10-2009, 02:15 AM
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I missed this thread 1st time around.
No comment, it's late. LOL
[/on eyeroll]
IndyDurango
#18
03-11-2009, 01:29 PM
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In reality,
there should only be at the most 1.1 quart loss per 1000 miles max. The problem could be vapor in the motor mixed with oil. City driving would make it look like there is more oil and then after driving it a longer way like highway miles it could get hot enough to burn off and then you check it and BOOM low oil!
Have you taken care of the Technical Service Bulletin on the oil breather which causes moisture to enter the crank case?
there should only be at the most 1.1 quart loss per 1000 miles max. The problem could be vapor in the motor mixed with oil. City driving would make it look like there is more oil and then after driving it a longer way like highway miles it could get hot enough to burn off and then you check it and BOOM low oil!
Have you taken care of the Technical Service Bulletin on the oil breather which causes moisture to enter the crank case?
Thanks, I'll take a closer look up front also.
Seafoam sounds like some good stuff also. I wish I would have known about that stuff a week ago. We just did a head job on a Pontiac, and used a couple of qts. of Kerosene to flush the water foam through.
As far as the 440 goes. I hate to talk dirty on a mopar site, but I have always been a Chev. Rat man. And I love the torque of those big blocks. But it is a new age. And I love todays chrysler/dodge bods., Nobody beats em. + I'm at the age where I'll turn a wrench on just about anything....BowTies,FoMoCos,Imports ect... (just like closing time at the local pub). So youll have to school me on hot Mopar mods. I have worked on plenty D,C&Ps. (I wish I had a buck for every time burnt myself R&R'in plugs on a Plymouth/Chrysler boat w/a big block, especially #7, or was that #8). It was nice to see a 340, 318, or even a slant 6 roll into the bay. But my focus was on drive ability, And not Squeezing juice, especially on the new stuff. So feel free to fill me in on any Dodge MOJO. I do know that with the 426 BIG DOG, Power from a piston engine would never be the same. Thus the H.P. book was written, and Dodge was the author. I see it every time I watch the big boys burn up the quarter mile at Bristol, and who can forget Petty's glory years.
#19
03-12-2009, 07:39 PM
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They usually have Seafoam at Napa or Autozone=9.00 bucks for a can.It will also clean the crud off o2 sensors if you live where they have crap gas.It's been around for a very long time=Iwas told about by an old mechanic who would use it in old flathead fords to clean carbon crud off the valves etc.I don't think it has methanol like the Berryman B12 cleaner has=methanol=erodes the tips of the fuel injectors=use only isoproply gas driers too...My 98 ram 5.9 started to run real funky=turned out to be
#4 injector was leaking fuel do to a eroded injector tip.
#4 injector was leaking fuel do to a eroded injector tip.
#20
03-15-2009, 02:56 AM
I too had that same problem until I changed the PCV valve. I have a 2000 durango with 140200 and it uses only 1/4-3/4 of a quart between changes. If you haven't changed the PCV yet then do your car a favor and do it. after you change the valve i recomend you buy a cheap oil filter, a pint of amsoil engine flush (black bottle) and flush your engine for 40 min and change the oil right after that