If I were you I would try to swap #5 and #7 injectors to a different spot and see if the problem follows them, if it does then replace them.

 

Na,

It seems like everytime a missfire is around I always see # 5 or #7 when it is a bad plug, wires, or routing problem.

It is a good idea to rule it out tho.

 

That's why I stick to the wires because a couple wires touching any metal parts under the hood can give the same symptoms
I know he just did a tune up but if the wires are or have at anytime have touched metal they can go bad quick. or maybe he bought a couple bad wires. I have always noticed the wires will throw a code before the plugs ??? why I don't know

 

Dro when wires go bad it is from the insulation wearing away. When that happens it gives the electrical pulse an easier way out (grounding on the block) rather than continuing its path to the spark plug and causing it to fire. You just have to remember that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. When plugs go bad they are usually still able to fire but not good enough to get the fuel to burn well.

 

My thoughts exactly... so then when the wires sit on the block or manifold it burns the insulation thus creating that very problem

 

Eh those wires are made for those kind of temps. It is more vibration than anything that causes the premature wear when they are riding on the block/valves covers.

 

swaping the injectors wont help me. I am not getting a code. so it will keep doing it and I wont know.
My mechanic had it hooked up to a hand held. Took it for a drive showed misfire on cyl. 5&7 then all misfire.

 

sorry all, I have been sick and just now was able to try a few things to the D.
hydrashocker, I took your advice and switched the plugs back to the champion copper. they are gaped proper, plug wires good, and roted properally...
I looked at the links that you had set up in an earlier post and found that my symptoms with my cruise controll to be the same as the others. changed out the TPS and the D is running fine on cruise (no surging). But, the origional problem still exists. I cleaned the intake so that is good. The mechanic said that the fuel pump is ok.
So, as of today the D has 98-100% compression, new TPS, clean intake and componets that have to do with that, plugs (champion and gaped) wires (routed properally), cap, rotor, Battery checked out good, had a check run on the temp. sensor while running the fuel system cleaning that was ok, checked the injectors and flow tested, I changed out the ignition coil, and today I changed out the distributor pick up coil(cam sensor). The only thing that I believe I have left to check/change is the crank position sensor.
ANY OTHER IDEAS OUT THERE??????
thanks

 

I almost forgot I also had a check done on the cat. and it is ok.

 

do any of the wires have burn marks on them?
Also are any of the wires touching the engine?