I have a 1998 Durango. 318 engine, 8cyl.

A couple days ago my hubby was driving (somewhere arounf 40 m.p.h) and the truch started bogging out a little, but didnt stall. . . weird, but it stopped so I/we didnt think much of it..
2 days ago I was driving, I cant remember for sure but i think was only doing 5-ish m.p.h. sitting in traffic, start/stop type driving.... and It stalled... but turned right on.
Yesterday I was in traffic again and only going no more then 5 m.p.h. mostly just lifting my foot off the break, costing then break again. It started to bog out a little... So I stop put it in park, then within 2-3 minutes it stalls . . . This time it doesnt start back up So Im sitting in the car, trying to start it every 2-3 minutes. It sounded like it wanted to start, but just wouldnt.... Eventually I got it to start, started driving, it stalled again. . started right back up, but then stalled again!. So i floored it and went around the block and parked....
My husband comes, starts right up, drives it home. He changed the spark plugs (which were horrible) and bought some type of gas cleaner? I think thats what it is....
Drives fine. he lets it sit idling for a while, nothing happens..
This morning I start the car, go inside aof about 10 minutes, go back out to leave and its stalled , wont start...
I only tried a few times got furusterated and now im here...

Any ideas?
There were sencors that were bad a while ago, the o2 was one of them, hubby fixed them all but the 02 (b/c the code didnt come back on and the truck was running fine) Could it be the 02 making it stall?

Any help would be great! My husband is pretty good about fixing stuff, but were just not sure where to start.. His guess is the catalytic converter. . Mine is the 02 censor... (but I know nothing about cars. haha! )
Thanks
Laurie

Also, is there a test that can be done to tell if the catalytic converter is bad?

 

Welcome! You came to the right place.

I think it's the fuel pump. There is a port to test pressure on the drivers side fuel rail. OEM should be around 54 psi. Anything under 50psi I would change out. They are about $200 bucks at your local parts place and the pump is in the tank. The pump assembally has the Fuel regulator, fuel filters, and pump all in one unit. The tank must be dropped. The tank is held up by 2 bands and is polyurathane so it's light. Remember to clean the tank out with fuel when you have it out before install. There is a fuel pump relay under the hood on the drivers side that can be swapped with a different one or use a spare that is located in the panel. Most of the relays are interchangeable. Just do it with the power off!

The other thing it could be is a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) which is located on the drivers side of the Throttle Body.

Also, Make sure he only used Champion spark plugs for this truck. Champion plugs that can be used are:

OEM Champion Copper Plugs
Champion Truck Plugs
Champion Iridium Plugs.

DO NOT USE PLATINUM PLUGS!

Also things of intrest when completing a tune up on this rig.

1. Distributor cap and rotor. Get the upgraded Brass Contacts for 2 bucks more.
2. OEM spark plug wires or MSD 8.5mm Red wires for performance.

 

Gonna agree with Hydra probably the fuel pump. You might have sediment clogging the fuel filter which is convieniently located inside the pump which all has to be replaced at the same time. The sediment will cause a drop in fuel pressure and cause the engine to die, but usually will start right up after. Test the pressure at the rail see what you get, if pressure is good it might be the TPS. Usually the TPS will cause fluctuations in the RPMs right before it bogs out. Does that happen on yours or does it go right from idle to dead?

 

Does anyone have a DIY on fuel pump for a 98 D 5.2 , and or the correct timing specs if that makes sense. I myself moved the ignition and its never been right only by ear. This weekend I want to drop the tank and change the pump before i source a CPU timing tune.

 

Its always a good ideal to start your own post in order to get the best response for your question...

This is pretty much strait out of the Haynes manual.

The fuel pump and associated filter are in the gas tank. You must remove the gas tank from the vehicle as it is inserted into the gas tank and attached to the tank from the top. Some things to know (these steps may not be complete, but they will give you an idea of the effort required):
1) it helps if the gas tank is empty or near empty before you start (Gas is heavy - roughly 8 lbs per gallon, the fumes travel far and fast and can ignite with the smallest spark). Siphon all you can get out of the tank before begining.
2) remove gas cap (if you have not already done this as it will release any built up pressure in your gas tank).
3) release pressure from fuel lines (fairly high pressure)
a)pull fuel pump relay from underhood fuse box (ignition switch off)
b)start car and let it idle until it runs out of gas and quits
c)replace fuel pump relay (ignition switch off)
4) remove negative battery cable (sparks and gas are not happy together)
5 you may have to jack vehicle up to get access to gas tank underneath (use proper jack stands, never never trust a jack)
6) disconnect filler hose & vent hose from gas tank (usually simple hose clamps) they should be at the back of the tank
7) place jack or blocks under tank as you are about to remove the straps that hold gas tank in place - but you must initially let tank down only enough to disconnect fuel line, vent line and electrical connector. There will not be enough slack in these lines and wires to drop the tank to the ground and then disconnect them so be prepared to completely control the weight of the tank. This is another reason to empty the tank.
8) lower gas tank to the ground and move it away from the vehicle
9) before removing metal retaining ring from fuel pump, notice the orientation of the gas pump. The package is round. If the new pump is not install in exactly the same position your fuel guage float may not work properly. I would suggest making a mark on the old fuel pump and on the tank that line up prior to removing original pump. Then if your memory fails, you can look at the old pump and the tank and see exactly where it should go.
10) remove the metal retaining ring by turning it to release the plastic tabs that are all around the fuel pump. There should also be a locking tab that may have to be pulled back or pryed away from the metal ring before it can be turned. You may have to take a wooden dowel or brass bar and a hammer and gently tap the ring to move it while someone else holds the locking tab back. Never use anything metal to tap on the metal ring as it can create sparks.
11) after ring is removed, gently remove the fuel pump. You will likely have to tilt the unit slightly to get it out of the tank as the fuel float will be attached. DO NOT DAMAGE THE FLOAT as I do not think the new pump will come with one and it will have to be reused. DO NOT DROP the Rubber Gasket in the tank - seems like common sense until you drop one in and spend the next 15 minutes fishing it out.
12) install the new pump by doing everything above in reverse.

 

The fuel system should be checked=quick way to diagnose a fuel problem=use alil starting fluid or carb cleaner=if it starts=fuel system problem=if not check the for spark=no spark no start.Does this problem happen after driving awhile? If it does could be a bad fuel pump relay or filter[electric fuel pumps usually cease to work pretty quick] or could be a distibutor or ignition spark loss or the computer or a sensor has a fault which should throw a code that would show in a scan.For the hell of it check to make sure the alternator is putting out enough=14.1 and above.13.9 and below can sustain a battery but can cause problems with driveabilty especially if accessories get turned on at idle or at redlights where idle drops down and the alternator with a bad regulator drops voltage to run on the battery.