just brought a Dodge Durrango with 160,000 miles
#12
#14
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I paid 3900$ for it. I knew when I brought this truck would have to spend some money on repairs. Sofar heres are my issues with this truck.
1. Driver side widow won't open/close
2. Rear trunk won't lock somtimes. Sometimes when I do get it to lock the "gate open" warning lights appears
3. All widows foggs. The truck kicks good heat but the defrost funtions not working.
4. Load squeaking noise coming from under hood. I think it the altenator fan belt.
5. Missing fog lights.
The dealer at that car lot mentioned that used Dodge Durragos don't sale anymore. I don't mine the minor issues that I have with this truck. But My queation is did I take a bad gamble on a 2000 DD with that many miles on it at that price of 3900$
1. Driver side widow won't open/close
2. Rear trunk won't lock somtimes. Sometimes when I do get it to lock the "gate open" warning lights appears
3. All widows foggs. The truck kicks good heat but the defrost funtions not working.
4. Load squeaking noise coming from under hood. I think it the altenator fan belt.
5. Missing fog lights.
The dealer at that car lot mentioned that used Dodge Durragos don't sale anymore. I don't mine the minor issues that I have with this truck. But My queation is did I take a bad gamble on a 2000 DD with that many miles on it at that price of 3900$
2) Take off the rear plastics from inside and lubricate the lock cylinder and connecting rods. Typical that these sieze up from age/water/corrosion/etc.
3) Any antifreeze smell at all when the defrost is running? If not, good... no leak in the evap/heater core. Defrost runs the AC compressor. Could be low on freon, could be a blown compressor fuse. If the compressor is running correctly, no leaks in evap, the blend door could be stuck not allowing the defrost. AC will not work either. More detail needed.
4) If the squeak is around the belt, most often the idler pulley is rusting up. Another 3 on the scale and about $100.
5) You can get a complete Mopar Fog light kit to replace old ones or to add ones that were never there. The kit is 100% complete and fully documented. Mopar part number for the ENTIRE kit with ALL the parts needed is 82205658. Here is more info http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=96504
6) Love my leather seats!
IndyDurango
#15
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Indydurango so what if you do smell antifreeze when i try to defrost? my heat and temp is fine, but i havent checked if my AC blows ice cold air yet.
Driving my truck in snow and rainy weather have been frustrating. thats when all my problems hit me the hardest.
hopfully my sister will keep her promise and give me 1000 bucks towards these repairs. if any money left over it would go towards more parts and accessories.
indydurango i dont how to check for and fix most things but hopfully i could learn a few things from these forums.
Driving my truck in snow and rainy weather have been frustrating. thats when all my problems hit me the hardest.
hopfully my sister will keep her promise and give me 1000 bucks towards these repairs. if any money left over it would go towards more parts and accessories.
indydurango i dont how to check for and fix most things but hopfully i could learn a few things from these forums.
#16
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If you smell antifreeze while running the defrost, you have a leak in the heater core and probably the evap also (same age, thus aged together.) Glad to hear you have $1000 to fix it because that's about what it takes. The dash comes out, a new evap, heater core and I recommend a new blower motor since you are in there, and then the dash goes back in.
Can you do it yourself? Maybe. It's 3 days of work and a ton of removal. If you chosse a dealer to do the repair, the dealer used to charge $1400 but maybe in this economy that price has come down. Negotiate with them!
Here is my link on when I had my heater core, blower motor and evap replaced: http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9390
Good luck!
IndyDurango
Can you do it yourself? Maybe. It's 3 days of work and a ton of removal. If you chosse a dealer to do the repair, the dealer used to charge $1400 but maybe in this economy that price has come down. Negotiate with them!
Here is my link on when I had my heater core, blower motor and evap replaced: http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9390
Good luck!
IndyDurango
#17
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As for the dealer saying Durangos don't sell... I found 2 in the Tampa bay area, One looked like it was rolled down a hill on fire and then there was the one I bought. While I was working on the deal for the truck there were 2 other people that wanted to test drive it.. Had to beat em off with a stick!
Keep in mind many of these lots may be paying more as the cars age on their lot - I forget all the specifics, but the guy I bought my Durango from (off a lot) just so happens to live a few doors down from me - didn't realize this until I gave him my address while doing the paperwork.
I forget what it is - but they want to move the stuff on the lot that's been sitting for a while more than anything, some kind of deal with the finanace company - see, I don't think they own all those cars lock, stock, and barrel - some are on an agreement with a finanace company as this lot was the 'used cars' lot for a new Toyota dealer in my area. Thus the 'cost' with cars that sit over 90 days, I think it's "free" for the first 90 - forgive me, but I forget the specifics - but for at least them, after 90 days, there was a cost incurred with the cars.
I was looking around and he was pushing a couple of Trailblazers on me, but then I seen this nice shiny White Durango sitting in the front... it got my attention right off and once I seen it had half the miles of the Trailblazer I was all over it. He kept wanting me to look at this and that, but I was hooked on that Durango.
He kinda gave me more detail on why they push certain cars after finding out I knew where he lived~~ hehe
I did take a night to do some research - ended up here, along with some Chevy forums and Eopinions.com - after that, the Trailblazer wasn't an option - no offense to Chevy fans, I have no problem with them, but after reading about 5 or 6 costly problems that seem to be common with the Trailblazers, I steered way clear of it.
#18
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If you smell antifreeze while running the defrost, you have a leak in the heater core and probably the evap also (same age, thus aged together.) Glad to hear you have $1000 to fix it because that's about what it takes. The dash comes out, a new evap, heater core and I recommend a new blower motor since you are in there, and then the dash goes back in.
Can you do it yourself? Maybe. It's 3 days of work and a ton of removal. If you chosse a dealer to do the repair, the dealer used to charge $1400 but maybe in this economy that price has come down. Negotiate with them!
Here is my link on when I had my heater core, blower motor and evap replaced: http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9390
Good luck!
IndyDurango
Can you do it yourself? Maybe. It's 3 days of work and a ton of removal. If you chosse a dealer to do the repair, the dealer used to charge $1400 but maybe in this economy that price has come down. Negotiate with them!
Here is my link on when I had my heater core, blower motor and evap replaced: http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9390
Good luck!
IndyDurango
I have to do this..........Still I want to know if I can cut the firewall and access it that way to do mine. Then place a sealed plate over the hole?????
#19
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I have a 2000 Durango with 162K miles and also paid $3900. Got the 5.9 v8. Has it's share of problems. Need to replace my T-Stat as I got the infamous P1281 code. Am going to replace my o2 sensors as I got the P0420 code as well. I have the leather seats and am currently looking to get the driver seat replaced as I have a 2"x2" square of leather ripped out by the seat contrls where the bottom cushion meets the back rest. I used to have an '01 Dakota with the 4.7. So, I pretty much knew what I was in for. Still love these trucks though, and with 3 boys and a little girl on the way, the third seat is the way to go and can't beat the power for the money. I'm smilin' the whole way and my wife loves this thing.
#20
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shwantz, get the leather panel fixed/replaced at a local top and trim place. It is easy and relatively inexpensive compared to the costs and labor to swap the seat.
The stat is a easy DIY 30 minute fix. Use a long extension on your ratchet and work straight down on the two housing bolts (7/16s IIRC.) Remove the upper radiator hose first and you will only loose a little coolant. Scrape the old gasket off, use a new one (99 cents) and a dap of RTV to hold it in place as you put it back on. On the stat itself, get one that "fails to open" so when it fails, it fails to an open position. Otherwise overheating can occur on failed and closed stat.
02 codes will come and go. If drivability and gas mileage is unaffected, reset the code and go on. If it comes back quickly, then it is time to go ahead and swap the sensor.
Good luck. Let me know if you need any photos or help from afar.
IndyDurango
The stat is a easy DIY 30 minute fix. Use a long extension on your ratchet and work straight down on the two housing bolts (7/16s IIRC.) Remove the upper radiator hose first and you will only loose a little coolant. Scrape the old gasket off, use a new one (99 cents) and a dap of RTV to hold it in place as you put it back on. On the stat itself, get one that "fails to open" so when it fails, it fails to an open position. Otherwise overheating can occur on failed and closed stat.
02 codes will come and go. If drivability and gas mileage is unaffected, reset the code and go on. If it comes back quickly, then it is time to go ahead and swap the sensor.
Good luck. Let me know if you need any photos or help from afar.
IndyDurango