1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

HELP!!!! TRUCK Won't Run!!!

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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 09:03 PM
  #11  
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okay, the battery is fine, autozone tested it for me..... now what to do???? I guess the next best thing would be the IAC and fuel filter.... I'm wondering if maybe the full pump could be going out or if the cat could be stopped up?? Im Puzzled I guess I just have to start replacing things or cough up the cash and tow it to a shop and get it checked out.....
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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hope you find out what it is
 

Last edited by DRO318; Feb 27, 2009 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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-K-

This is what I'm thinking.

IAC, TPS, or MAP sensors. Try pulling the Throttle Body off and cleaning that thing out completly with carb cleaner. Install a new gasket to manifold before installing. You can clean the IAC just make sure you don't play with the plunger. Pushing it in too far will break it. Be very careful. While you have the TB off take a flashlight and look into the manifold and see if there is oil. This would show a plenium gasket failure (just a good idea).

It could be a fuel pump. Do a presure test on the outlet on the drivers side port on the fuel rail. It should be a least 50psi. New is 54psi.

The other one could be a crankshaft sensor. Located under the distributor cap. Or distributor cap and rotor. Check for water inside of the cap.
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Feb 28, 2009 at 01:09 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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A quick way to tell if it's fuel or spark is pull the top off throttle body.Open the throttle blades manually and spray a quick burst of starting fluid or carb cleaner.Put the throttle top back on and give it a crank=if it starts and runs for a moment it's probably the fuel system or the fuel pump relay.If the truck doesn't turn over at all=no starter then check to make sure you have voltage to the starter and then have someone turn the key to start and see if you get voltage to the solenoid.If the truck turns over but doesn't start after spraying the carb or starting fluid then check for spark at at the sparkplugs and the coil=I've seen ignition coils die slowly and put out a weak spark then just die.Make sure you have voltage to the coil and distributor if you find no spark=I believe theres a relay in the box on the driver side for the ignition.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Okay so I checked the fuel pressure and its at a steady 49PSI off and running, heres the kicker when I started it the starter still clicked about 10 times before it started, but this time it ran fine after it started!!!!! I just don't understand, I guess I should be happy its running.... is it possible that the starter solenoid was sticking open and bogging the engine down?? I guess I will go ahead and replace the starter and hope that takes care of everything, if it doesn't then I will just start replacing the IAC sensor and go down the line.... Thanks for all the help
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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You may have had at short in the starter system causing the battery and alternator to ground out to the motor or chassis,but you probably would have smelled smoke and or fried the alternator and a fuse or even the wiring.Check all the wiring and get aan amp tester from napa the stock number is BK7001083 and it's 22.00 dollars.You simple press and hold it to the battery cable positve and have someone crank the car over .If the starter draws more then about 8 amps on a day with a temp of about 50<the colder it is the more amps on older vehicle, no more then 10 amps though.check all the wires that go to the starter with an ohm meter aka a multi meter=disconect them when you do= it theres high resistance in the cables replace them.and check your ignition system too= weak spark can be a coil going bad or the cap and rotor ned replacing etc.that napa meter will also tell you if the alternator is healthy= turn all accessories and a/cv on and lights and see if the alternator is putting out ok.One other tool that cheap is a load tester from harbor freight tools=you can put a 100 amp + load,depending on which model you buy=cheapest is a 100 amp for like 20.00 bucks.then watch and se is the battery voltage returns to 14.0 to 14.5<<If the alternator is putting out 13.8 or below at about 2000 rpm then it's probablly going bad.Hope this helps and get that napa tool or the harbor freight one=very handy.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DragonOfMadness
You may have had at short in the starter system causing the battery and alternator to ground out to the motor or chassis,but you probably would have smelled smoke and or fried the alternator and a fuse or even the wiring.Check all the wiring and get aan amp tester from napa the stock number is BK7001083 and it's 22.00 dollars.You simple press and hold it to the battery cable positve and have someone crank the car over .If the starter draws more then about 8 amps on a day with a temp of about 50<the colder it is the more amps on older vehicle, no more then 10 amps though.check all the wires that go to the starter with an ohm meter aka a multi meter=disconect them when you do= it theres high resistance in the cables replace them.and check your ignition system too= weak spark can be a coil going bad or the cap and rotor ned replacing etc.that napa meter will also tell you if the alternator is healthy= turn all accessories and a/cv on and lights and see if the alternator is putting out ok.One other tool that cheap is a load tester from harbor freight tools=you can put a 100 amp + load,depending on which model you buy=cheapest is a 100 amp for like 20.00 bucks.then watch and se is the battery voltage returns to 14.0 to 14.5<<If the alternator is putting out 13.8 or below at about 2000 rpm then it's probablly going bad.Hope this helps and get that napa tool or the harbor freight one=very handy.
If you read through this thread most of these things have been completed already!

He does bring a valued point tho.... If the solenoid is arching then yes this can happen. I suggest both of you check this out.

Starter Replacement on the 5.9L and 5.2L and Starter Diagnostic Techniques.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...-and-5-2l.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...ck-in-and.html

Now in addition to this, I think it’s electrical for sure.
Problems:
1. Running like crap.
2. Clicking of the starter relay.
3. Most everything checks out good.

I think the problem is the connections on the battery or battery cables. The other thing to shoot for is the starter/solenoid. The starter/solenoid is replaced together. If you have an ark in the solenoid or an inadequate circuit the alternator is going to bleed into the system back feeding the diodes.
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Mar 1, 2009 at 03:05 PM.
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