1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

HELP!!!! TRUCK Won't Run!!!

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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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I have a 97 Durango w/ 5.2 and I tried to start it to go to work this morning and it wouldn't stay running..... First it acted like the battery was dead and clicked a couple of times then turned over real slow, then it acted like it was trying to start so I gave it some gas and it did, but every time I let off the gas it died, finally after sitting and reving it for a minute to charge the battery I let off and it ran normally sitting there for a minute or so then I revved it a little again and it died..... and did not want to start again...... Any Ideas?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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I would recomend replacing the battery. The D is picky when it comes to low voltages and if your battery is on the way out it can be a mess.

* it would take longer than a couple of mins of running just to get a decent amount of juice back into the battery, 15-30.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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Thanks, I'm gonna try that on my lunch break and hopefully that is the problem
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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changing the battery is the way to go. if the battery does not have the proper juice to keep the pcm running, truck will not run. its not like the old days when you disconnected the battery while truck was running and the alternator would keep the system running. if there is no power to the brains or very little (pcm) of the system no worky
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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I took the battery out during my lunch and I am gonna take it to autozone when I get off to have it tested. I cranked it during lunch and it turned over with no problem but would only start if I gave it gas, I had to rev it up to keep it running for a minute then I could let off and it would idle normal I turned on my lights and pressed the brakes to see if this affected it but the voltage gauge and idle did not change, when I put it in drive it did fine until I gave it some gas to go and then it just choked and died....... I sure hope its the battery
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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yeah just replace the batt and you will be fine
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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it is most likely that batter from what you have described, but based on your statement of having to hold the gas down to start it and waiting until it "finds itself" to idle then idling fine w/o your foot on the gas it could also be the IAC (idle air control) motor, ont eh back of the throttle body, its a relatively cheap part to replace, but try the batter first since you said it was slow to crank over in the first place.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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If ya messin with the battery check the cables=the factory cables sometimes corrode inside the crimp are and the cable itself.I just chopped mine today and replaced them with a set of universal top terminals=ohm out the the cables themselves if ya see corrosion in the cables after ya cut insulator and check the junction box on the driverside and the grounds.Hope this helps too.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by superdak05
changing the battery is the way to go. if the battery does not have the proper juice to keep the pcm running, truck will not run. its not like the old days when you disconnected the battery while truck was running and the alternator would keep the system running. if there is no power to the brains or very little (pcm) of the system no worky
That is a correct analogy!

Considering the PCM is powered by the main panel that is supplied by the alternator it does get the power it needs to run. In actuality the excess power at approximately 14 volts is channeled into the battery to charge it.

The PCM has the main voltage regulator for the inside wiring circuitry.... But the Rectifier Bridge is 98%of the time the problem when you think it's the regulator and that is why we tell everyone to replace the alternator and battery load test if not a replacement first before ever thinking of replacing the PCM for voltage problems. Not to mention you can’t take a PCM back if that isn’t your problem.

Now the battery also powers the alternator Rectifier Bridge (6 diode bridge) which converts the A/C generator to D/C current (alternator). If the battery is removed the powering field is incapacitated and the diode reacts with unsustainable power output. Now the overloaded power must be put somewhere right? It goes into the system!!!!!! It’s like trying to run a generator on it’s own output.

In back yard mechanics terminology, when you take out the battery you disconnect the alternator powering bridge and the alternator cannot work right. Also the over voltage is released into the PCM which can overload it and totally fry your entire electronic system! DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!

The same type of problem happens when the battery is bad or low and that is why our trucks run like crap when your battery is low or bad.

Have that battery load tested and replace it if needed. Make sure that you check all connections and ensure full great contact.
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Feb 27, 2009 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Also:

There is more info here if you really want to get into alternating current.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...questions.html
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Feb 27, 2009 at 08:55 PM.
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