Get a new one at Autozone........Hey Rebel look it getting an Airlift coolant refiller if your gonna keep that D-rang awhile=also works good on other cars if your a gearhead=I had one but sold it..here's a liink to what it looks like=Napa and Carquest have these too I think..

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uv550500.html

 

I have a 99 durango i bought it with some front end damage put a used rad in it and a new watr pmp it was working fine for about 2 months i was driving down to fl hauling a car and i live in ny, got down to nc and the truck started overheating stopped for a bit let her cool drove on dropped the car off in ft bragg, got down to Ga and it did it again pulled over at a napa and put a new thermastat in, it still overheated got to fl and stopped at a rest stop called Auto Zone checked the hoses to see if one collapsed nope not it looked at the fan clutch it kept spinning after i shut it down figured it was that Stopped at another auto zone and put a few screws in to fix the fan right to the crank so the fan works all the time now no problem on the high way but it over heats once and a while in the city. I have no idea what the #$%* it could be if you figure it out let me know

 

The used radiator might need cleaning out. Have the system flushed and make sure you are running enough anti-freeze.

 

X2 on this ideal... Very important on these trucks to have a clean radiator.. You can get a new drop in one for around $150. If your engine is running warm then so is your tranny, you do not want that tranny to run warm at all. Once fixed I would be doing a transmission filter/fluid change.

 

okay so i drained the coolant and checked the t stat and the t stat was fine but the coolant looked like straight glycol i think that has some thing do with the other issue which was a mystery till now when i put in the new water pump ,t stat and hoses i bought the non-premixed anti freeze and filled it up accord to the mix table on the bottle but everytime id check the reservoir it would be low so id fill it and then it would be low again (wasnt leaking anywere) so that was probly crappy coolant and the fact i didnt burp it any way when i put the coolant in and burped the system i also pressure washed the "radiators" ? from the back side it got alot of mud out but not so many of the rocks ill look in the junkyard for a decent radiator . any way im not quite sure wich steps fixed it but its fixed.

 

almost forgot thanks again for the help and feed back

 

One thing=you can't tell a good t-stat by looking at it..and always turn your heat on max for a while=to purge the ait out of the heater core-air can get trapped in it then air pockets will seperate off at higher water pump speed and airate and caus pockets to form in low flow rate areas around the system causin havoc..

The thermostat is normally opened by the force generated by the wax expanding in a small canister which pushes the valve open against a spring pressure via a piston rod. To test this, remove the thermostat from the car and place in a pan of water. Bring the water to boiling point when the thermostat should open 3/8 inch and close fully on cooling.

here's the link the above is from..
http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE15updated.htm

 

sweet link good info ,thanks

 

On the 4.7L by the T-stat housing is a small plug that is used for burbing the system.



You probably installed a HD clutch fan. Kensai has that problem as well.