I'll test mine but I'm thinking a lot warmer than that. Low side piping insulated as well?

I will test it and get back with a test using a calibrated thermometer.

 

Hello all,

I have the same problem, my D 5.9 STL 2003 4wd is having an A/C problem, it's not cooling, I went to the A/C shop and he filled it with Freon without taking out the present Freon, and the same problem exist, it cools not like before...and sometimes it cools and sometimes else it's the fan only working with the A/C On but no cooling...

i went back to the A/C shot, then he filled it again, then we the Compressor did short cycle, then he got it empty till it stopped short cycling.. however, the A/C is not cooling..

I'm gonna check the drayer and see what happens..

if you have any idea pls help..

thanks.

 

Took the truck in to Firestone to get 4 wheel alignment ( I have the lifetime ) and got a Full Synthetic oil change, by the way the bastereds used 5W-30 so I'm getting a clean out at their expense.......LOL ...... Going to take it back to a different one next week.......LOL......... The funny thing is I got it for free because they were supposed to do the aglinment 2 Saturdays ago and left me hangin for 15 minutes before telling me that it was too late to do it, as I watched them send help home..... Well I called bullsh*t and I got a free Fully Synthetic oil change for free out of it!

So I went today to get it done and as they were doing the work I asked for a estimate for A/C vacuum/dryer/recharge and this is what I got........

A/C Performance check--------------$34.99

A/C Evacuate and Recharge----------$79.99

Remove and replace Dryer------------$59.80 + $104.50 labor

Labor--------------------------------$115.30

TAX/Supplies/ and grand total-------- $312.48


I don't even think so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

back to the same issue, i went to another Tech. then he took out the old Feron and did pressure test, then he changed the dryer, i brought a new one, now the A/C is cooling but the cold air comes from the holes in the driver side, the front passenger A/C holes are not sending as cold as the driver, then he told me that my A/C is mixing hot & cold Freon and i need to cancel the hot (for me I don't need hot a/c in saudi arabia), so I'm gonna get back to him to do that and block the hot air.

hopefully it will work.

by the way, the rear A/C is pretty good cooling.. wired right !

hopefully, this will help somebody of u

take care all

 

If you have cycling issues. These are the only problems causing short cycling.

1. Low freon (possibly leak) or moisture contamination (from poor oem install)
2. Hvalve going bad or constricted due to step 1.
3. Valves on either/both low/high side from compressor going bad.

So if you go by the steps in order, this is what you do to fix it. you will notice the steps starts out step 1 easy/cheap fix to step 3 to be hard/expensive fix. Most commonly is step1. A simple refill of freon if you can confirm that the system is not pulling a vacuum during diag testing. Otherwise, evacuating a system is absolutely required to ensure system from moisture contaminats. Not too often you have to deal with step 2 as far as replacement. Usually addressing step 1 wil address this one in most cases. Step 3 is the last resort and most extreme. Rarely would you go this route. If you do, I would recommend also replacing the condenser coil (one facing in front of radiator) and dryer and hvalve all at the same time.

 

What about these Kensai?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96677

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92649


So am I looking approx. pressures of 35-40 low side and 200 high side when filled?

 

Wow, $15 for a evac pump? hmmm, that is just too good to be true! Hell, even if it worked once, Can't beat $15.

Gauges are cool! First time I seen one that comes with a molded case! I have been out of the HVAC world for too long to know what's out there anymore!

If you attempt to try this yourself, hook up the gauges and fire up the evac pump. Let the pump run for about the first minute. when you are at the maximum vacuum, shut off the valves from your gauges and let it set for a few minutes. if you see the system loosing the vacuum slowly, but then stabilize and still in vacuum, fire the evac pump and open the valves to pull it back to max vacuum. After another few minutes, then shut off the valves, and turn off the pump. Watch the gauges, if it slowly looses vacuum in the same amount of pace as the first time, it may be a indication you have a leak. If you gauges are holding steady in vacuum, then continue evac with pump for up to 30 minutes. Then start filling the system up. Make sure you purge your hoses of any air before cracking the valves to let the freon in as the system is in a vacuum state.

From this point, you will fill up your system based on what your A/C system label says.

35-45 would be the typical low side, high side will all depend on your current outdoor ambient temperature. The gauges should have a temp/pressure chart in the dials to assist you without manual calculating. Try to obtain near 30 degree differentation. Meaning the pressure/temp of the high side should be around 30 degrees higher than your current ambient outdoor temp.

Use this website. It shows you the pressure/temperature chart for 134a freon. even has a calculator to calculate for you.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/r134apresstempconv.html

Example. If outdoor is currently 80 degrees, the high side should be pushing around between 145-150 psi to obtain about 109-110 degrees. If outdoor temperature is 100 degrees, the high side should be pushing around 192-200 psi to obtain about 129-130 degrees.

If you look at the low side, it would show at 35-45 psi, you would obtain temp around 39-49 degrees.

 

Thanks Kensai!

I got on youtube.com and did some tuturials on the subject and......walla..... I became HAVC certified.....LOL.

 

guys , just for your info.

i have cancelled the heater A/c and now it is freezing not only cooling..

good luck all

 

WTF??????????...... All questions?


Kensai<------
Air Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors
Central Pneumatic
96677-7VGA
$14.99



Went and checked it out. ^ This ^ vacuum pump is drawn on phnumatic. You can see the imput port on the top and you attach an air line to it and as the air goes through it creates vacuum just like a brake bleeder. I'll save and get this:

2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump
U.S. General
98076-2VGA
$89.99