I would like to say, removing this engine this weekend was not a fun task at all!

The front axle shares the same support as the engine mounts, Haynes tellsyou toremove the axle, I had tosupport it with a floor jackand remove the bolts.

Bellhousing bolts were also a blast to remove, and the starter location made me laugh...

If you are planning on pulling a 1st gen engine out,I found it a lot easier to remove the front of the truck: Bumper, shroud, radiator, condensor ect. It made it a lot easir to yank the engine and a lot easier toremove the mount bolts, starter bolts and brackets.

I was able to yank the 360 with out removing the hood and worrying about hood alignment when the new engine is installed. Took me 9 hours to remove the engine working from a jack in the driveway.

 

WOW.

How many miles and what was wrong?

IndyD

 

I think it would have been A LOT quicker to remove the hood and use an engine hoist.

 

Yup!

Mine was removed with the radiator out then the engine. Though the hood stayed on. I would remove the heads first which takes a bottle of whiskey, tools and 2 hours. The just remove the block. Starter is a piece of cake if you follow thie DIY I did:
Starter Replacement on the 5.9L and 5.2L and Starter Diagnostic Techniques.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...-and-5-2l.html

 

Of course I used an engine hoist...

Bumper = 6 bolts.
Shroud = 4 bolts and the hood latch.
Radiator drain and removal.
Condensor = 2 bolts and moved to the side and not disconnected.

That process took about 2 hours but that includes the setup and draing of fluids. By removing the front clip of the vehicle it allowed for a much easier removal of the engine, engine mount bolts, exhaust and exhaust manifolds, brackets and wiring. I did not have to touch the hood and the new engine should go in just a lot better.

192,000 miles

 

FYI, you do not have to touch the starter on a engine pull. The starter bolts to the transmission and the flywheel stays bolted to the torch converter on a chrysler.

 

What are you doing for the new motor?????

Let me suggest you read through this: Longevity & Power Of Your Rig!

 

Gotcha. What was wrong with it?

IndyD

 

Maybe im just a weirdo, i started by removing the whole front clip (Fenders spot welded to supports ). Yeah it was a little of a pita, wasnt really that many bolts, mainly wiring clips, but it made everything after 12x easier. Plus while everything is off it makes it hella easy to clean/detail/paint... Just dont clean the block and forget to paint it...

 

Cylinder #3 has a bad ring.
Main bearings are wore out.
Needs a valve job (Heads).

I aquired this vehicle for free for the wife, the interior is loaded leather and in tip top shape. The body has a couple of minore dents and a little rust spot on the front bumper. It has a new Chrysler transimssion and a rebuilt transfer case. Newer front end, steering box and CV's. New tires and brakes.

I have a 99 318 sitting in the grarage that I am gonna swap it for with low miles. I am going to rebuild the 360 that I yanked out, I am going to use a steel crank, flat tops, new hydro cam, lifters, new heads, SLP headers & catback. I am not gonna go too radical with it, she will be driving it so it ill just be a step above stock. I will have this ECM flashed to allow for the change of the 318 and just purchase a new performance pre-flashed ECM for the 360 from Jegs when I swap back to the 360 in a year.

I am taking my time rebuilding the 360 and letting her use the Durango in the mean time. Besides, if she crashes I always have the 360 for my Ram SLT hahaha!