1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Tranny replacement question

Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:14 AM
  #11  
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schusterjo - the labor was $320 so it was parts for the rest of the cost. The solenoid was $157 alone...I know I was ripped, but they did not quote a price and when my friend with tranny shop said it should cost around $300, I was floored by the $650 figure. (I did not take it to him as he is 2.5 hours away) Hydrashocker said to tell them to adjust the belts, as well as fluid and filter, I was told that these transmissions do not have belts... So now I need to find a local mechanic to take it to because we are NOT taking it back to the dealer, who has serviced the vehicle for the last 7 of the 9 years we have owned it.
Do any of you know a good one in Wichita, Kansas??!! For future reference.
 

Last edited by BethInKS; Jun 9, 2009 at 09:16 AM. Reason: left out why did not take to friend with trans. shop.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #12  
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They are bands not belts. Unless you have a 45RFE trany as shown (and I doubt that) then you should have the 46RE if you have a 5.9L in a 2000 year.

42RE can be adjusted.

46RE can be adjusted.

45RFE Does Not have an adjustment. There is only a shift cable adjustment.


These were the only ones that were installed in that year and yours should be a 46RE which is adjustable. Here it is out of the Service Manual:

46RE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Gearshift Adjustment Procedure
(1) Shift transmission into Park.
(2) Release cable adjuster lock (underneath the
power brake booster) (Fig. 312) to unlock cable.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Slide cable eyelet off transmission shift lever.
(5) Verify transmission shift lever is in Park
detent by moving lever fully rearward. Last rearward
detent is Park position.
(6) Verify positive engagement of transmission
park lock by attempting to rotate propeller shaft.
Shaft will not rotate when park lock is engaged.
(7) Slide cable eyelet onto transmission shift lever.
(8) Lower vehicle and check engine starting.
Engine should start only in Park and Neutral.
(9) Lock shift cable by pressing cable adjuster
clamp down until it snaps into place.
FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 313).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate


Torx
y socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-7/8
turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.
REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 314).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 2 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopar


t ATF Plus, Type 7176 fluid.
VALVE BODY
CONTROL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
There are two control pressure adjustments on the
valve body;
²


Line Pressure
²


Throttle Pressure
Line and throttle pressures are interdependent
because each affects shift quality and timing. As a
result, both adjustments must be performed properly
and in the correct sequence. Adjust line pressure first
and throttle pressure last.
LINE PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Measure distance from the valve body to the inner
edge of the adjusting screw with an accurate steel
scale (Fig. 315).
Distance should be 33.4 mm (1-5/16 in.).
If adjustment is required, turn the adjusting screw
in, or out, to obtain required distance setting.
NOTE: The 33.4 mm (1-5/16 in.) setting is an
approximate setting. Manufacturing tolerances may
make it necessary to vary from this dimension to
obtain desired pressure.
One complete turn of the adjusting screw changes
line pressure approximately 1-2/3 psi (9 kPa).
Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise
increases pressure while turning the screw clockwise
decreases pressure.
THROTTLE PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Insert Gauge Tool C-3763 between the throttle
lever cam and the kickdown valve stem (Fig. 316).
Push the gauge tool inward to compress the kickdown
valve against the spring and bottom the throttle
valve.
Maintain pressure against kickdown valve spring.
Turn throttle lever stop screw until the screw head
touches throttle lever tang and the throttle lever cam

touches gauge tool.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #13  
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See..there it goes to show that they treat women like we are stupid....he should have asked if I meant bands instead of telling me they don't have belts. I know they were ticked I got a 2nd and did not let them change the transmission. So I am not sure if they adjusted the bands or not...will that matter?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by BethInKS
See..there it goes to show that they treat women like we are stupid....he should have asked if I meant bands instead of telling me they don't have belts. I know they were ticked I got a 2nd and did not let them change the transmission. So I am not sure if they adjusted the bands or not...will that matter?
yes bad band adjustment can matter.. this is something that needs to be done at "every" service (fluid filter change on the transmission). if not adjusted they could cuase the transmission to not shift as it should.

The dealer is taking you for a ride. You need to find another shop to start taking your truck to..

Glad you all liked that wright up...
 

Last edited by schusterjo; Jun 9, 2009 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
And that's why I call them the stealer ship.


schusterjo<------- Thanks for the right up! I'll throw it in to the DIY.
Thats cool, Done this little change about 5-6 in the last year, I know it really well now.

I also will have some more write ups soon.. Going to start redoing the front end of the truck
Moogs all the way around, polyurethane control arm bushing ext...

Just need a camera need a few more parts and I will get it up...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 01:25 AM
  #16  
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./.,/.,
 

Last edited by sltplus2000; May 30, 2011 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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No rebuilds, however a rebuilt valve body could be used.


We have no DIY for the 45RFE but you could do one for us?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
No rebuilds, however a rebuilt valve body could be used.


We have no DIY for the 45RFE but you could do one for us?
no DIY for 45RFE? Do one for you ?? I will post everything
when done .
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #19  
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Thanks and take lots of pictures!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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Yes, it is an excellent write up! I used it last summer to fix my rango. Perfect instructions. Thanks again schusterjo! I also bought the 3 piece kit that was in the instructions off e-bay. No problems at all. And truck shifts fine now.
 
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