Tranny replacement question
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06-08-2009, 11:42 AM
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Tranny replacement question
My local dealership just told me that the code P0740 means I need to replace my transmission. I have a 2000, 5.9, 4x4 with 154 K miles (Durango). A friend who owns a tranny shop said to have them check the convertor clutch solenoid, that they find that this is the more than likely the issue. (I don't take it to him as he is hundreds of miles away) When I called the dealership to get them to check that issue..they were put off by it and said they could do that and hope it fixes my problem. Husband is deployed to Iraq right now and really need opinions on whether or not you would just fix the solenoid or replace the tranny...HELP!!!
#2
06-08-2009, 12:00 PM
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#3
06-08-2009, 01:54 PM
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Thank you Rebel...my friend with the transmission shop said the same thing. But of course, now I am getting attitude from the dealer's service...but I guess I can live with that. Just another ??? What would you say their approx. charge to me will be for this and I will have no clue until I pick it up.
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06-08-2009, 07:06 PM
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Thanks...cost me $650...but I have yet another question, of course it is because I am panicked now at everything...it is an RPM question..what is acceptable RPM range when driving on the highway at 6o mph or higher? It appears to be shifting better, but still runs slightly above the 2 (about 2 dashes) when I am running on the highway...60, 65 or 70 mph.
#6
06-08-2009, 07:33 PM
All Star
X2 on replacing the solenoid. Worth every penny to see if $250 would fix it. your alternative would be around $3500 and more for a tranny rebuild.
Very common for these solenoid to fail.. You have a 46RE transmission and you have another Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid that are also common failures in these transmissions.
If i was in there I would replace all three at once just to be on the safe side.
Okay here you go.. its really simple and heck you could do it yourself.
They basically sit all together (in the same area) Somebody who knows what they are doing should be able to do the job in 30min to an hour
Basically drop the transmission pan
after you drop the transmission pan it would look like this (you have to remove the filter as well, 2 screws on the filter)
okay you can actually see all three here
1 is the Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid
2. is the Solenoid Overdrive/Lockup (you can't see all of it, just the end)
pull the bolts out that i have circled and it will drop down and it looks like this
(I missed one bolt that is next to the "1")
The top one will pull strait out after you remove that baracket on top then you need to flip it over (note: yours will look a little differnet on top, 200o on up they change to this style but still exact same location and instalation
))))
Now flip it over and remove the other, it will look like this and on the inside of of the channel there will be a clip holding this part in that you have to pull off to be able to remove it. You will need this clip to install the new one so don't lose it. (you can see the clip sitting on the valve body part, they already removed it and placed it on there to show you)
install the two new ones and that part is done...
I don't have any pics of the Solenoid Overdrive in the valve body but basically remove two bolts holding it on, unplug, plug new one in, install with the two bolts.
You will need to cut a few zip ties that hold the wiring, you also will want to replace the cut zip ties with new ones to keep all the wiring as it should be..
Reverse what you just did, install new filter on your way out.
How to adjust bands.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmi...T_band_adj.htm
Put the pan back on and fill with ATF+4
(depend on how much go back in, usually 4 to 5 quarts you don't want to over fill)
unplug the battery for about a minute to reset the computer. ( not really a necessary step but i would)
Thats it take it for a drive (15min) stop on level ground, engine running put the truck in RND12 (basically put it in all gears for 5 sec each) then put it in "Neutral", set parking break and check transmission fluid level, fill if needed to top line (this is the way you have to check you transmission fluid, it will not read correctly in park and checking it)
Well if ya not going to do it yourself you know "exactly" what is going to be done now.
By the way here are the parts needed
just the Solenoid Overdrive/LU w/elect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...#ht_2281wt_563
and the kit (all three parts) woth the extra $80 to get the other two parts at the same time and replace them at the same time.. (oh by the way the dealer will charge you $100 "each" for these same parts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...8#ht_523wt_706
It may take several miles for the computer to learn the parts and smooth out the shifts.
Very common for these solenoid to fail.. You have a 46RE transmission and you have another Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid that are also common failures in these transmissions.
If i was in there I would replace all three at once just to be on the safe side.
Okay here you go.. its really simple and heck you could do it yourself.
They basically sit all together (in the same area) Somebody who knows what they are doing should be able to do the job in 30min to an hour
Basically drop the transmission pan
after you drop the transmission pan it would look like this (you have to remove the filter as well, 2 screws on the filter)
okay you can actually see all three here
1 is the Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid
2. is the Solenoid Overdrive/Lockup (you can't see all of it, just the end)
pull the bolts out that i have circled and it will drop down and it looks like this
(I missed one bolt that is next to the "1")
The top one will pull strait out after you remove that baracket on top then you need to flip it over (note: yours will look a little differnet on top, 200o on up they change to this style but still exact same location and instalation
))))Now flip it over and remove the other, it will look like this and on the inside of of the channel there will be a clip holding this part in that you have to pull off to be able to remove it. You will need this clip to install the new one so don't lose it. (you can see the clip sitting on the valve body part, they already removed it and placed it on there to show you)
install the two new ones and that part is done...
I don't have any pics of the Solenoid Overdrive in the valve body but basically remove two bolts holding it on, unplug, plug new one in, install with the two bolts.
You will need to cut a few zip ties that hold the wiring, you also will want to replace the cut zip ties with new ones to keep all the wiring as it should be..
Reverse what you just did, install new filter on your way out.
How to adjust bands.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmi...T_band_adj.htm
Put the pan back on and fill with ATF+4
(depend on how much go back in, usually 4 to 5 quarts you don't want to over fill)
unplug the battery for about a minute to reset the computer. ( not really a necessary step but i would)
Thats it take it for a drive (15min) stop on level ground, engine running put the truck in RND12 (basically put it in all gears for 5 sec each) then put it in "Neutral", set parking break and check transmission fluid level, fill if needed to top line (this is the way you have to check you transmission fluid, it will not read correctly in park and checking it)
Well if ya not going to do it yourself you know "exactly" what is going to be done now.
By the way here are the parts needed
just the Solenoid Overdrive/LU w/elect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...#ht_2281wt_563
and the kit (all three parts) woth the extra $80 to get the other two parts at the same time and replace them at the same time.. (oh by the way the dealer will charge you $100 "each" for these same parts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...8#ht_523wt_706
It may take several miles for the computer to learn the parts and smooth out the shifts.
Last edited by schusterjo; 06-21-2009 at 11:36 AM.
#7
06-08-2009, 08:19 PM
All Star
Thanks...cost me $650...but I have yet another question, of course it is because I am panicked now at everything...it is an RPM question..what is acceptable RPM range when driving on the highway at 6o mph or higher? It appears to be shifting better, but still runs slightly above the 2 (about 2 dashes) when I am running on the highway...60, 65 or 70 mph.
Part should of cost no more then $100ish.. fluid, filter, gasket from dealer 70ish maybe 80ish
So lets say $200 in parts and that is going a little overboard for even a stealership.
They just charged you $450 for 1 hours worth of work.
That is just total BS... sorry but I hate how shops rip people off like yourself.
Anyways to answer your question that sounds about normal for that speed range. if the transmission is not slipping (you would notice your RPM's bouncing a little at a steady speed) your good at that RPM.
By the way I was in the process of typing out that post when you posted your last message. man i wish I would of seen that before i went threw all of that work with the nice pics and all lol.
Last edited by schusterjo; 06-08-2009 at 08:22 PM.
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#9
06-09-2009, 12:53 AM
Champion
X2 on replacing the solenoid. Worth every penny to see if $250 would fix it. your alternative would be around $3500 and more for a tranny rebuild.
Very common for these solenoid to fail.. You have a 46RE transmission and you have another Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid that are also common failures in these transmissions.
If i was in there I would replace all three at once just to be on the safe side.
Okay here you go.. its really simple and heck you could do it yourself.
They basically sit all together (in the same area) Somebody who knows what they are doing should be able to do the job in 30min to an hour
Basically drop the transmission pan
after you drop the transmission pan it would look like this (you have to remove the filter as well, 2 screws on the filter)
okay you can actually see all three here
1 is the Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid
2. is the Solenoid Overdrive/Lockup (you can't see all of it, just the end)
pull the bolts out that i have circled and it will drop down and it looks like this
The top one will pull strait out after you remove that baracket on top then you need to flip it over (note: yours will look a little differnet on top, 200o on up they change to this style but still exact same location and instalation
))))
Now flip it over and remove the other, it will look like this and on the inside of of the channel there will be a clip holding this part in that you have to pull off to be able to remove it. You will need this clip to install the new one so don't lose it. (you can see the clip sitting on the valve body part, they already removed it and placed it on there to show you)
install the two new ones and that part is done...
I don't have any pics of the Solenoid Overdrive in the valve body but basically remove two bolts holding it on, unplug, plug new one in, install with the two bolts.
You will need to cut a few zip ties that hold the wiring, you also will want to replace the cut zip ties with new ones to keep all the wiring as it should be..
Reverse what you just did, install new filter on your way out.
How to adjust bands.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmi...T_band_adj.htm
Put the pan back on and fill with ATF+4
(depend on how much go back in, usually 4 to 5 quarts you don't want to over fill)
unplug the battery for about a minute to reset the computer. ( not really a necessary step but i would)
Thats it take it for a drive (15min) stop on level ground, engine running put the truck in RND12 (basically put it in all gears for 5 sec each) then put it in "Neutral", set parking break and check transmission fluid level, fill if needed to top line (this is the way you have to check you transmission fluid, it will not read correctly in park and checking it)
Well if ya not going to do it yourself you know "exactly" what is going to be done now.
By the way here are the parts needed
just the Solenoid Overdrive/LU w/elect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...#ht_2281wt_563
and the kit (all three parts) woth the extra $80 to get the other two parts at the same time and replace them at the same time.. (oh by the way the dealer will charge you $100 "each" for these same parts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...8#ht_523wt_706
It may take several miles for the computer to learn the parts and smooth out the shifts.
Very common for these solenoid to fail.. You have a 46RE transmission and you have another Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid that are also common failures in these transmissions.
If i was in there I would replace all three at once just to be on the safe side.
Okay here you go.. its really simple and heck you could do it yourself.
They basically sit all together (in the same area) Somebody who knows what they are doing should be able to do the job in 30min to an hour
Basically drop the transmission pan
after you drop the transmission pan it would look like this (you have to remove the filter as well, 2 screws on the filter)
okay you can actually see all three here
1 is the Governor Pressure Transducer and Pressure Solenoid
2. is the Solenoid Overdrive/Lockup (you can't see all of it, just the end)
pull the bolts out that i have circled and it will drop down and it looks like this
The top one will pull strait out after you remove that baracket on top then you need to flip it over (note: yours will look a little differnet on top, 200o on up they change to this style but still exact same location and instalation
))))Now flip it over and remove the other, it will look like this and on the inside of of the channel there will be a clip holding this part in that you have to pull off to be able to remove it. You will need this clip to install the new one so don't lose it. (you can see the clip sitting on the valve body part, they already removed it and placed it on there to show you)
install the two new ones and that part is done...
I don't have any pics of the Solenoid Overdrive in the valve body but basically remove two bolts holding it on, unplug, plug new one in, install with the two bolts.
You will need to cut a few zip ties that hold the wiring, you also will want to replace the cut zip ties with new ones to keep all the wiring as it should be..
Reverse what you just did, install new filter on your way out.
How to adjust bands.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmi...T_band_adj.htm
Put the pan back on and fill with ATF+4
(depend on how much go back in, usually 4 to 5 quarts you don't want to over fill)
unplug the battery for about a minute to reset the computer. ( not really a necessary step but i would)
Thats it take it for a drive (15min) stop on level ground, engine running put the truck in RND12 (basically put it in all gears for 5 sec each) then put it in "Neutral", set parking break and check transmission fluid level, fill if needed to top line (this is the way you have to check you transmission fluid, it will not read correctly in park and checking it)
Well if ya not going to do it yourself you know "exactly" what is going to be done now.
By the way here are the parts needed
just the Solenoid Overdrive/LU w/elect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...#ht_2281wt_563
and the kit (all three parts) woth the extra $80 to get the other two parts at the same time and replace them at the same time.. (oh by the way the dealer will charge you $100 "each" for these same parts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solen...8#ht_523wt_706
It may take several miles for the computer to learn the parts and smooth out the shifts.
Excellent post. The very best I have ever seen related to this topic. HS needs to sticky that for sure!
Hope I never need the info, but if I do it looks a lot easier with your info and pix.
IndyDurango
Last edited by IndyDurango; 06-09-2009 at 12:55 AM.
#10
06-09-2009, 08:19 AM
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Thanks guys, it is hard for me to know what to do with my husband deployed to Iraq right now. One thing he told me was that if it was "shelling out" as they told me it was, I would hear it...as far as I can hear, it sounds the same. If this did not fix it, then would I need a new transmission? I know we will NOT be taking it back to the dealer. My RPM issue has been going on for 2 years and they have fixed it by replacing the speed sensor the first time, the fan clutch the second time and this third time they said it was a bad battery. ONE day after the new battery and serpentine belt, the engine light pops and this code is what pops. THEN they say I need a new transmission. Could not this issue have been found the day before while in the shop or can it just "happen" that quick and there is no way to know it until the code pops up?
I really appreciate your inputs!
I really appreciate your inputs!