Info needed on head gasket swap
#15
#17
Well guys finally got around to pulling the heads, and its worse than expected. Two valve seats came out and one valve kissed the piston.. So instead of putting $$$ in the heads and chaning the piston going to replace motor...
So if anyone has one or knwo of one I am looking and willing to travel 15o-175 miles for good motor. Located in Columbus GA 31909 and will purchase if in budget, and ro will trade mustang ford parts.. have a few items of value for the stangs,,
Have a built AOD trans with good converter,
347 stroker motor with 3k miles, but needs block,
ported TFS twisted Wedge heads, ( w/ flow sheets and speces),
Anyway,, anyone know where a 4.7 that will work in 01 durango please shoot em an email.. mike84lx@knology.net Need truck road worthy ASAP....
So if anyone has one or knwo of one I am looking and willing to travel 15o-175 miles for good motor. Located in Columbus GA 31909 and will purchase if in budget, and ro will trade mustang ford parts.. have a few items of value for the stangs,,
Have a built AOD trans with good converter,
347 stroker motor with 3k miles, but needs block,
ported TFS twisted Wedge heads, ( w/ flow sheets and speces),
Anyway,, anyone know where a 4.7 that will work in 01 durango please shoot em an email.. mike84lx@knology.net Need truck road worthy ASAP....
#18
You could finish pulling the motor and take it to a shop like NAPA and have the rebuild done yourself. They will build back to OEM and put YOUR motor back in. This way you know what you got and you are right to the block already at this point anyway!
Indy<----- Good analogy but there are some facts.
Torquing a bolt means stretching it. After the bold is torqued (stretched) it cannot be torqued (stretched) again unless you torque over the OEM torque so this is why bolts shouldn't be re-used. They are already stretched (torqued). Once a bolt has been torqued (stretched) it doesn't like to stay tight thus they CAN work loose. Internal engine components need to be secured because you can't just open it to re-tighten it like per say wheel lugs. This is the main reason after you get your wheels pulled from the tire facility that after 20 miles you are supposed to re-torque your lugs. If you read the statement in the receipt you sign thats what it tells you that. For this when I build a motor I get new main/rod bolts, and head bolts. Most everything else you can get to or isn't that much of a deal....IMHO
Indy<----- Good analogy but there are some facts.
Torquing a bolt means stretching it. After the bold is torqued (stretched) it cannot be torqued (stretched) again unless you torque over the OEM torque so this is why bolts shouldn't be re-used. They are already stretched (torqued). Once a bolt has been torqued (stretched) it doesn't like to stay tight thus they CAN work loose. Internal engine components need to be secured because you can't just open it to re-tighten it like per say wheel lugs. This is the main reason after you get your wheels pulled from the tire facility that after 20 miles you are supposed to re-torque your lugs. If you read the statement in the receipt you sign thats what it tells you that. For this when I build a motor I get new main/rod bolts, and head bolts. Most everything else you can get to or isn't that much of a deal....IMHO
#20
I am in the middle of a rebuild on my 4.7L. It hasnt been terribly difficult thus far, I have gotten both heads and the cams and all that fun stuff off without the use of any "special" tools, with the exception of a pulley puller to pull the harmonic balancer.
I bought a haynes manual from Kragen and it has helped wonders. I am ok when it comes to mechanics, and have been pretty damn confident coming into this project just from reading the manual.
I bought a haynes manual from Kragen and it has helped wonders. I am ok when it comes to mechanics, and have been pretty damn confident coming into this project just from reading the manual.