new old car
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 79
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From: avon new jersey
new old car
hey guys my wife realy likes the old durangos i was looking at a few with over a 100k can you tell me some of the problems they have with the higher mile trucks she will baby the thing i just wanna make sure these are reliable trucks sinse i have never owned one. and should i swich it to synthetic fluid
All Star
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 882
Likes: 3
From: Lebanon, IN
2003 is the better one of the Gen 1 years,
Known issues:
ball joints
Transmission short life if not serviced when they should.
4.7L has a 45RFE and is the better transmission
5.2/5.9 has a 44RE/46RE transmission and is good if serviced properly
all take ATF+4, it is full synthetic so no need to swap there.
Far as swapping to synthetic read this. I use mobile 1 and will always stay with it. only other oil I personally would use would be Amsoil.
(need adobe pdf reader)
http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Spee...d%20Tricks.pdf
Ball joints:
if if still has rivets on the upper ball joints and not bolts then they have never been changes (possibly get dealer to change them for free if that is the case because of recall but ask before buying) if bolts then need to keep an eye on them, then could be cheap ones. Find yourself changing them use Moog ball joints, tops are very easy to change and lower can be a pain. Dealer will want $800-1200 to do them, shop will want around $600-800.. Do it yourself and pay $260 in parts (MOOG only) half a day save $300+
2003 has disk brakes on the rear and a updated computer
5.9L is the workhorse with the power.
5.2L shares same block as 5.9L and most of the other parts are all the same. basically only difference is stroke/compression.
They both share a Plenum Gasket issue in the early years, most have been fixed. This will cause sludge but if using quality oil such as Mobile 1 and changing oil when you are supposed to you should never see this issue anyways. (cheap oils and going to far in between oil changes is the biggest issue)
4.7L is the newest engine from Mopar in a long time.
all engine options are good choices
bottom line is keep the oils changed when they are supposed to this is a great rig that will last a long time. People on here and other forums have over 300K and no major repairs other then general maintenance.
The problem buying used is if the previous owner or owners took care of it like it should of been. no way to tell if they did, only way would be to open the engine and transmission to see if they did, not practical. So, if possible you will want to get all the service records possible (this goes for any car really, not just a durango) What happens with buying used is the previous owners did not do the general maintenance and then sell the vehicle to a unexpectating buyer who has no ideal other then what they are told. Well, then they find their self with big issue later cause the damage is done.
Well then they come on here or other forums saying how bad this vehicle is (or any manufacture/model) claiming that they are the biggest piece of junk blah blah blah when the truth is, they bought a high millage vehicle (around 100K or more) that was not properly maintained, and if had been properly maintained would of lasted a ling time.
See when new general maintenance is very important because you going threw break in. Fail to break it in properly threw this period and the vehicles life is shortened greatly.
Known issues:
ball joints
Transmission short life if not serviced when they should.
4.7L has a 45RFE and is the better transmission
5.2/5.9 has a 44RE/46RE transmission and is good if serviced properly
all take ATF+4, it is full synthetic so no need to swap there.
Far as swapping to synthetic read this. I use mobile 1 and will always stay with it. only other oil I personally would use would be Amsoil.
(need adobe pdf reader)
http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Spee...d%20Tricks.pdf
Ball joints:
if if still has rivets on the upper ball joints and not bolts then they have never been changes (possibly get dealer to change them for free if that is the case because of recall but ask before buying) if bolts then need to keep an eye on them, then could be cheap ones. Find yourself changing them use Moog ball joints, tops are very easy to change and lower can be a pain. Dealer will want $800-1200 to do them, shop will want around $600-800.. Do it yourself and pay $260 in parts (MOOG only) half a day save $300+
2003 has disk brakes on the rear and a updated computer
5.9L is the workhorse with the power.
5.2L shares same block as 5.9L and most of the other parts are all the same. basically only difference is stroke/compression.
They both share a Plenum Gasket issue in the early years, most have been fixed. This will cause sludge but if using quality oil such as Mobile 1 and changing oil when you are supposed to you should never see this issue anyways. (cheap oils and going to far in between oil changes is the biggest issue)
4.7L is the newest engine from Mopar in a long time.
all engine options are good choices
bottom line is keep the oils changed when they are supposed to this is a great rig that will last a long time. People on here and other forums have over 300K and no major repairs other then general maintenance.
The problem buying used is if the previous owner or owners took care of it like it should of been. no way to tell if they did, only way would be to open the engine and transmission to see if they did, not practical. So, if possible you will want to get all the service records possible (this goes for any car really, not just a durango) What happens with buying used is the previous owners did not do the general maintenance and then sell the vehicle to a unexpectating buyer who has no ideal other then what they are told. Well, then they find their self with big issue later cause the damage is done.
Well then they come on here or other forums saying how bad this vehicle is (or any manufacture/model) claiming that they are the biggest piece of junk blah blah blah when the truth is, they bought a high millage vehicle (around 100K or more) that was not properly maintained, and if had been properly maintained would of lasted a ling time.
See when new general maintenance is very important because you going threw break in. Fail to break it in properly threw this period and the vehicles life is shortened greatly.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Philippines
=)
So detailed and informative. I'm sure these infos r of great help to people who has same concern like this.
Good Job to schusterjo..
Good Job to schusterjo..
2003 is the better one of the Gen 1 years,
Known issues:
ball joints
Transmission short life if not serviced when they should.
4.7L has a 45RFE and is the better transmission
5.2/5.9 has a 44RE/46RE transmission and is good if serviced properly
all take ATF+4, it is full synthetic so no need to swap there.
Far as swapping to synthetic read this. I use mobile 1 and will always stay with it. only other oil I personally would use would be Amsoil.
(need adobe pdf reader)
http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Spee...d%20Tricks.pdf
Ball joints:
if if still has rivets on the upper ball joints and not bolts then they have never been changes (possibly get dealer to change them for free if that is the case because of recall but ask before buying) if bolts then need to keep an eye on them, then could be cheap ones. Find yourself changing them use Moog ball joints, tops are very easy to change and lower can be a pain. Dealer will want $800-1200 to do them, shop will want around $600-800.. Do it yourself and pay $260 in parts (MOOG only) half a day save $300+
2003 has disk brakes on the rear and a updated computer
5.9L is the workhorse with the power.
5.2L shares same block as 5.9L and most of the other parts are all the same. basically only difference is stroke/compression.
They both share a Plenum Gasket issue in the early years, most have been fixed. This will cause sludge but if using quality oil such as Mobile 1 and changing oil when you are supposed to you should never see this issue anyways. (cheap oils and going to far in between oil changes is the biggest issue)
4.7L is the newest engine from Mopar in a long time.
all engine options are good choices
bottom line is keep the oils changed when they are supposed to this is a great rig that will last a long time. People on here and other forums have over 300K and no major repairs other then general maintenance.
The problem buying used is if the previous owner or owners took care of it like it should of been. no way to tell if they did, only way would be to open the engine and transmission to see if they did, not practical. So, if possible you will want to get all the service records possible (this goes for any car really, not just a durango) What happens with buying used is the previous owners did not do the general maintenance and then sell the vehicle to a unexpectating buyer who has no ideal other then what they are told. Well, then they find their self with big issue later cause the damage is done.
Well then they come on here or other forums saying how bad this vehicle is (or any manufacture/model) claiming that they are the biggest piece of junk blah blah blah when the truth is, they bought a high millage vehicle (around 100K or more) that was not properly maintained, and if had been properly maintained would of lasted a ling time.
See when new general maintenance is very important because you going threw break in. Fail to break it in properly threw this period and the vehicles life is shortened greatly.
Known issues:
ball joints
Transmission short life if not serviced when they should.
4.7L has a 45RFE and is the better transmission
5.2/5.9 has a 44RE/46RE transmission and is good if serviced properly
all take ATF+4, it is full synthetic so no need to swap there.
Far as swapping to synthetic read this. I use mobile 1 and will always stay with it. only other oil I personally would use would be Amsoil.
(need adobe pdf reader)
http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Spee...d%20Tricks.pdf
Ball joints:
if if still has rivets on the upper ball joints and not bolts then they have never been changes (possibly get dealer to change them for free if that is the case because of recall but ask before buying) if bolts then need to keep an eye on them, then could be cheap ones. Find yourself changing them use Moog ball joints, tops are very easy to change and lower can be a pain. Dealer will want $800-1200 to do them, shop will want around $600-800.. Do it yourself and pay $260 in parts (MOOG only) half a day save $300+
2003 has disk brakes on the rear and a updated computer
5.9L is the workhorse with the power.
5.2L shares same block as 5.9L and most of the other parts are all the same. basically only difference is stroke/compression.
They both share a Plenum Gasket issue in the early years, most have been fixed. This will cause sludge but if using quality oil such as Mobile 1 and changing oil when you are supposed to you should never see this issue anyways. (cheap oils and going to far in between oil changes is the biggest issue)
4.7L is the newest engine from Mopar in a long time.
all engine options are good choices
bottom line is keep the oils changed when they are supposed to this is a great rig that will last a long time. People on here and other forums have over 300K and no major repairs other then general maintenance.
The problem buying used is if the previous owner or owners took care of it like it should of been. no way to tell if they did, only way would be to open the engine and transmission to see if they did, not practical. So, if possible you will want to get all the service records possible (this goes for any car really, not just a durango) What happens with buying used is the previous owners did not do the general maintenance and then sell the vehicle to a unexpectating buyer who has no ideal other then what they are told. Well, then they find their self with big issue later cause the damage is done.
Well then they come on here or other forums saying how bad this vehicle is (or any manufacture/model) claiming that they are the biggest piece of junk blah blah blah when the truth is, they bought a high millage vehicle (around 100K or more) that was not properly maintained, and if had been properly maintained would of lasted a ling time.
See when new general maintenance is very important because you going threw break in. Fail to break it in properly threw this period and the vehicles life is shortened greatly.