'00 Rear Pinion Seal Leakage
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Rookie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 65
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From: Indianapolis, IN
'00 Rear Pinion Seal Leakage
My rear pinion seal is leaking the diff's life blood onto my drive way.
There's not much I'm afraid to do on a vehicle (except for auto-trans.. that's black magic voodoo to me) so I want to fix the diff myself. I got a bearing and seal kit from Napa and referenced both my chilton and the 2000 D/C Service manual for the repair...
All in all, it doesn't look like it's a difficult job to do in and of itself, just time consuming and a pain in the rear to make sure everything is "right" when putting it back together.
Couple of questions though....
1. How long does replacing the bearings and seals take? Since the D is our only driver right now, is it something that I can do in an evening or wait until the weekend to do (ie, take more than a few hours)
2. Is it better / easier to work on the rear end with it still in the D, or would I be better off pulling it from the truck and working on it where I can get around on it?
3. The spec's for the pinion nut says I need to pre-load the crush cap to 210 ft/lbs of torque. The manual shows them using a beam type torque wrench for setting / measuring the pre-load. I also found a few video's on the 'tubes that show them using a beam type torque wrench. As my current "clicky" torque wrench only goes to 75lbs, I need a new one. However, the only beam styles I'm able to find (sears, snap-on, amazon, etc) only go up to 150 lbs. So the question is, where can I find a 250lb beam style torque wrench? Do I really need a beam style? What do you recommend (that's not going to cost me an arm and a leg)?
There's not much I'm afraid to do on a vehicle (except for auto-trans.. that's black magic voodoo to me) so I want to fix the diff myself. I got a bearing and seal kit from Napa and referenced both my chilton and the 2000 D/C Service manual for the repair...
All in all, it doesn't look like it's a difficult job to do in and of itself, just time consuming and a pain in the rear to make sure everything is "right" when putting it back together.
Couple of questions though....
1. How long does replacing the bearings and seals take? Since the D is our only driver right now, is it something that I can do in an evening or wait until the weekend to do (ie, take more than a few hours)
2. Is it better / easier to work on the rear end with it still in the D, or would I be better off pulling it from the truck and working on it where I can get around on it?
3. The spec's for the pinion nut says I need to pre-load the crush cap to 210 ft/lbs of torque. The manual shows them using a beam type torque wrench for setting / measuring the pre-load. I also found a few video's on the 'tubes that show them using a beam type torque wrench. As my current "clicky" torque wrench only goes to 75lbs, I need a new one. However, the only beam styles I'm able to find (sears, snap-on, amazon, etc) only go up to 150 lbs. So the question is, where can I find a 250lb beam style torque wrench? Do I really need a beam style? What do you recommend (that's not going to cost me an arm and a leg)?
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 1
From: Upstate Ny
To my knowledge to replace the rear bearing you have to gut the rear axle, shim/dial's etc etc. Some people just remove the yolk and replace the seal without taking everything apart/add a new crush sleeve.. But since your leaking, have you checked your breather first before going on that mission?
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 65
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I'm going to pull the rear end this weekend and replace the bearings and seals...
I'll make sure and take pictures and document as well /nod
Hey Indy, wanna come over? Beer is cold
I'll make sure and take pictures and document as well /nod
Hey Indy, wanna come over? Beer is cold