I have Dodge Durango 2000 5.9L SLT, with new Rebuilt Engine and a New PCM. I am having a problem when I use the brakes in low speed it locks and the car skids. I changed the ABS Module with a new one and checked all the brake system but nothing.

need help if possible,

thanks

 

only simple things I can think of, without DRBIIi*

Is the ABS light comming on during start?
Is it staying on?
CEL on?
tires & wheels are OEM size?

not much help but something while i ck tsb's

* or a ABS capable tool

 

First welcome to the forum!


Which wheels are locking?


Kev2<----- The only ones that can read ABS is the Dealer. CEL's are a DRB-II system but not the ABS system...........Sorry

 

The ABS Light comes on on the start then off, and about the tires they are OEM ones also the wheels. thanks

the car were at the dealer for a week, they checked the system, drained the brake fluids, all the pips checked, they even changed the tires but no luck .

the only front side wheels locks.

hope we find the problem, or i am going to sell the car which i love it so much but it costed me so much too.

thanks for your help guys,

 

Both front wheels or just one???????........Please be specific.

 

when i press the brakes, the left side locks and a sound of the ABS system from the back. it happens only in low speed only like 30-20 mph i already hit a car from the back i couldn't stop on time

only the front grill and the bumper scratched lol

 

I have a strange problem and I wonder if anyone of you has a good suggestion what to do.
My front brakes (both at the same time) sometimes stay on and the wheels and brakes become very hot. Usually this happens after driving for a while and after stopping. Sometimes the ABS and the BRAKE warning light come on, but I can not positively say that this happens when the brakes stick. It almost feels like tractor pulling, the brakes goes on more and more........
Usually after leaving the car to cool down, the brakes are loose again.
We did change a bunch of things, such as rotors and caliphers, but that was some months ago and the car was hardly driven in the meantime.

Usually the warning lights mentioned above do not come on when I do a cold start, but that is also erratic. I live on a small island in the Caribbean, so good mechanics are rare, and when it comes to computer controlled system, the knowledge is very very rare... I guess I have to solve it myself, but also spares are difficult and expensive to get, so all these factors escalates the problem to a higher level.
Thanks
Bo on the island of Curacao

 

Durangos with drum rear brakes are notorious for haveing them lock up when first driven. This happens after the vehicle has sat at least overnight and the humidity is high. The drums start to form a layer of rust inside. As the shoes hit the drums the friction locks them up. The only way to get past this is to apply brake pressure AND accelerator pressure at the same time so that you force a couple of revolutions on the rear brakes. This takes care of the problem, at least for that day. It's a PITA but I haven't found anyone with a workable solution. Now, as far as the front disc brakes - never heard of them locking up until now.

 

Interesting with the lockup of the rear drum brakes...
Here I have not experienced that, and the brakes are never sticking when I start; it always comes later when warmed up. We do have a lot of humidity down here, constantly 80+ percent with temps around 80-90F.

One of my mechanic friends had a theory about the brake pedal being a bit too close setup, so that the master cylinder cannot leak back the fluid after a brake, and therefore starts building up more and more pressure. If you let it sit for a while, then it get back and the brakes release. I checked the play in my pedal, and it does feel like there is an inch or so before the brakes engage, which I think should be enough.
Does anybody know if the brake pin between the booster and the master cylinder is adjustable? Or is there another adjustment on the brake pedal assy which I could try? Seems like a cheap and relatively easy thing to test before going on.

By the way, these sticky brakes do not happen every time I drive. We are on a small island, so travel between stops is usually short, and perhaps there would be a problem pattern if distances were longer.
Thanks

 

Compressed air will do that. Have a shop replace the fluid in the master cylinder and pull it through the entire system fully replacing the fluid.

Also on the rears I've seen the black plyable hosing that goes to the caliper deteriorate causing the fluid to do that. Most users have replaced these hoses and bleed the lines fully replacing the oxidized/contaminated fluid. This would also help get any air out.

Also check the lines to ensure there are no dings in the metal lines that aren't allowing the fluid to return or other.

One problem is if you don't ever take it up to freeway speeds and the rotors rust or whatever the rust really never gets removed. The pitting remains that the rust did to the metal. The best way to fully remove this is to get it up to freeway speeds like 70 MPH or so and get off the freeway coming down the offramp and really get on the brakes. Most off the time like ^ Factory says ^ just running down the road for about 100 yards with the brake petal depressed will do the job but sometimes it just doesn't.