Temp Problems and Bad Dealers
Well here is the first of many updates I am sure….
Drove to work this morning, about 15 miles, no big issue, temp seemed to hold steady and normal, then I parked it and the temp start rising, not fast, but it was going up. E-fan kicked in, temp still went up, seemed to level out but it was a lot higher than usual.
Popped the hood, I didn’t have any antifreeze blowing all over the engine but when I looked in the overflow there were air bubbles coming to the surface. I’m hoping that it’s just because I took the overflow hose off by the radiator cap to get the upper shroud off yesterday.
Drove to work this morning, about 15 miles, no big issue, temp seemed to hold steady and normal, then I parked it and the temp start rising, not fast, but it was going up. E-fan kicked in, temp still went up, seemed to level out but it was a lot higher than usual.
Popped the hood, I didn’t have any antifreeze blowing all over the engine but when I looked in the overflow there were air bubbles coming to the surface. I’m hoping that it’s just because I took the overflow hose off by the radiator cap to get the upper shroud off yesterday.
Hope you don't have a head gasket issue.
Bleed the air again out of the system and make sure that you install the correct anti-freeze for your application. 50/50 is usually good stuff and it's pre-mixed and ready for use.
Bleed the air again out of the system and make sure that you install the correct anti-freeze for your application. 50/50 is usually good stuff and it's pre-mixed and ready for use.
Called up a different dealer and I am taking it ion on Wednesday. Already planning on telling them to do a compression test, anything else that woould be worth while to have done?
No reverse flush available in our radiators. There is a check valve that prevents it.
Go get yourself a temp gun and start going over your radiator with it. If there are any signifigant drops in temp across a small area then you are looking at a plugged water passage. If there are enough plugged vanes then you need to ppick up a new radiator. Also check the t-stat for proper operation by idling up to operating temp. Feel the upper hose throughout warming the engine. The temp of the hose should rise dramatically when you reach operating temp if it does not the t-stat is stuck closed. If the temp rises gradually as the engine warms up the t-stat is stuck open. Both can cause overheating. When a t-stat is stuck open typically you won't overheat but it can happen. If the water pump pulley has play in it repplace the water pump. Other than that a good flush and refill may do you good. 1/4" of scale has the same insulating properties of 2" of steel which will not transfer heat nearly as well as it should.
IIRC you said that when you turned on the heater you were able to keep the engine cooer right? If so the radiator would be the first place I would suspect.
Go get yourself a temp gun and start going over your radiator with it. If there are any signifigant drops in temp across a small area then you are looking at a plugged water passage. If there are enough plugged vanes then you need to ppick up a new radiator. Also check the t-stat for proper operation by idling up to operating temp. Feel the upper hose throughout warming the engine. The temp of the hose should rise dramatically when you reach operating temp if it does not the t-stat is stuck closed. If the temp rises gradually as the engine warms up the t-stat is stuck open. Both can cause overheating. When a t-stat is stuck open typically you won't overheat but it can happen. If the water pump pulley has play in it repplace the water pump. Other than that a good flush and refill may do you good. 1/4" of scale has the same insulating properties of 2" of steel which will not transfer heat nearly as well as it should.
IIRC you said that when you turned on the heater you were able to keep the engine cooer right? If so the radiator would be the first place I would suspect.







