So should I clean up this thread and remove these last posts from #17 down? (asking permission from the users)

 

I also have had this issue with my 2000 5.9
I put in 1/4 cup of Sea foam in the the oil hole in the valve cover then drove the truck for about 3-4 hundred miles then proceded with a oil change and I have not seen the presure drop off since (2000 miles on that oil change now)
I read once that there is some type of inline filter or screen for the magnum but I havent been able to actualy pin point it's location

BUT So far so good

 

There is a screen on the oil pick up tube that goes into the pump from the oil in the pan. (The first step)

 

Of course not.

IndyD

 

Alright... to add to the masses... 99 Durango 5.2l 2wd

4 years ago or so I ran into oil pressure problem, guage intermittently dropping to zero. Was towing back from the midlands a 79 firebird to the Southeast. Scared the tar out of me.... Was able to bump from neutral or pull over and start again & pressure would get back up only to fall short time later... parked it and towed back to the North (shortest route)...
1. replaced oil sending unit myself.. no fix
2. flush twice for sludge at dealer and.. no fix
3. replace PCV valve.. no fix
3. of course delaership(s) gave a bunch of blank-baseless answers and high costs...
4. local boy DIY mechanic from home replaced oil pump, its' gasket, and oil pan gasket...

drove the truck 500 miles home!!... ran fine for 1.5-2 years, about 30-40k miles. Started out using synthetic every oil chage (3000 miles) but eventually succumbed to cheap oil and change about every 5000... wellllllllll... what ya know... it came back.... at about same time ABS brake light came on and a couple of power windows locked up a month prior.

I parked it then (about 2 years) and cranked up occasional but never put any more miles on it...

I bought a 2006 Durango...HEMI 4wd LOVE IT...

Anyways I am now tackling the problem once again 2 years later....
I thus far:
1. flushed with motor flush kerosene solvent.. no fix
2. replaced oil sending unit.. no fix
3. PVC valve does rattle (I think I did replace it right befoire parking... yes I will replace it anyways this afternnoon)
4. dropped oil pan (completely) and gave it a thorough cleaning.. some sludge yes...
5. replaced oil pump and gasket.

Drove 5-6 miles and pressure has dropped again to zero.

~Not sure on oil consumption yet... fixin to go drive some more now and check...
~Made sure to torque pump and pickup tube to spec, etc....
~the underside of engine w/ oil pan off looked fine, no sludge deposits...
~Durango still has ok power and pickup

Done everything the same as first time... Flush once more? I did put cheap oil in it anticipating I may need to flush again...

FYI.. I do/did notice slight repititive tick or tapping sound consitently coming from intake manifold... this has been for awhile... Intake Plenum? Can hear with hood up but not really with hood down... Is this spark knock???

THOUGHTS?????

I really want to keep the 99 Durango for myself and klet wife drive the 06 (get rid of her honda)...


JDRIVE
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UPDATE 1.... approx 1/2 quart low (5w-30)... @ the add/safe line... still not sure if oil consumption though. I put 20w-50 1quart in it and now I am 1/2 quart to high ... Drove 10 miles and no sign of dropping yet.... <<< oil too low, hmmmm. Is it better to use higher viscosity, hmmmmmm>>> I will let idle, heat up, and try another 10-20 later?
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5W-30 is for cold climent use only. You should be using 10W-30.


The engine was never meant for 20w-50 and being so you should pull it out. The usage of this lubricant will lead to blowing the motor as it's not incorporated with the additives needed for YOUR engine.

The only other lubricant that I found with the same specifications in a higher viscosity is 10W-40. (check your bottle) You could try a 10W-40 in Fully Synthetic as this will keep the jelling down at colder temps that it is prone to do because of the viscosity as well as deal with blow by with better. 10W-40 breaks down at a faster ratio than 10W-30 and that’s the reason that it is slowly being replaced with lighter weights. I do not recommend the use of it but it might help.

Now it is possible that you had some deposits in between the rings of your engine that got hot and melted during towing. This could cause excessive blow by that you haven't seen thus causing the problem.

If I were you I would try the Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic High Mileage 10W-30 as stated and replace your PCV valve. Second, replace the PCV hose to manifold. Third, spray some carburetor cleaner into the intake manifold through the intake nipple using the straw that comes on the can. Connect everything back up. This will ensure that the PCV is pulling at capacity and thus not creating the problem via crack or blockage.

Now as far as the "tick":

Get some better fuel like 91 octane or better. The fuel that you have in it is most likely oxidized causing the "tick" because it's not good fuel. Please note that the 5.2L and 5.9L have always had a slight tick. Octane usually takes care of this issue.

Make sure you have the right oil level first and use an OEM oil filter.

 

+1 on the oil.

10W30 is your friend. Change intervals of 5000 miles is a DEATH sentance for stocker/cheapie oils. 3000 on standard blends, 5000 on Mobil1. That was problem #1

Your tick is likely that 20W weight you are using. Too thin, lifters rattle and knock. Again, Mobil1 10W30 and it should quiet up.

Some 99s have bad cluster gauges. If you have updated all else, it's the gauge. Other than letting it sit for 2 years developing whos knows what, change the oil, clean it up and drive.

If you are concerned, a pod pillar gauge holder, replacement oil pressure gauge and replacement install labor is only like $200. That way you know if you are truly loosing pressure. If you are, stop ASAP and tow to fix.

BTW... There was no need to PM us to look at your specific post. As regulars, we will see it. PM if you have something you need in private or outside of the forum.

IndyDurango

 

any updates. my cousin is having the same problem as you. when he is driving the guage will drop all the way down. several minutes later the motor will knock pretty bad. he tells me that after a few minutes the oil pressure goes back up and the knocking stops. we were searching for a write up as far as changing the oil pump when i came across this site. ill check back later . thanks.

 

ivan,

Hello. Welcome with your first post.

Obvious oil pump failure on your cousins rig. Stop driving it ASAP. Damage caused by no pressure is not fixable. Simply swap the pump from here. Instructions for such a job are everywhere... threads on line, $10 Chilton Repair manuals at the parts stores, free from the local library, etc.

IndyDurango

 

thats what we figured. i crawled under his truck to get a better view but it didnt look good. what would be the best way to get the pump out? his boss said we should lift the motor off its mounts instead of dropping the front transaxle. i will continue to search for a good writeup.