Hi been a bit shorter since my last post and this one will be way longer so I can give full details on everything. Here is the issue:

After driving roughly about 30 minutes or an hour in town too scared to go out of town now. I get a lifter just a lifter it sounds like ticking. Note this mainly seems to happen when I am sitting at a light too long cause traffic can be brutal.Driving normally even on the highway this doesn't stop the ticking.

Things I have done or looked at:

Changed oil this seems to last about a month then it reappears again.
Oil gauge show normal pressure.
Plug wires look like they are in great shape no blemishes. Well went to pull one then look at the next one it seems they may be old ( one wire broke just now checking ) so I imagine the plugs are going slowly too. Note there is a small slight rough idle at times but not every time.
No leaks and fluids are well kept I even did a change from partial synthetic to high mileage as there is 109000 on it. Plus added Slick 50 to the last oil change.
Air filter is replace regularly and replaced the PVC Valve as well.
It's not getting hot at all.
Tranny fluid and filter was change after I got the car and only has about 7000 miles roughly on it.

So since I was pulling on plug wire and it just snapped I am now going ahead now to replace the plugs and wires. Anyhow am I missing something here to why the lifter (on the right side when sitting in car) ticks?

This usually goes away after sitting about 10-15 minutes. Sometimes it doesn't come back for a while sometimes it does as soon as I stop at a stop sign or stop at a red light.

 

Gone on cold (thick) oil. Gone on new (thick) oil.

There on old (thin) oil. There on hot (thin) oil.

A bad ticker lifter sound could actually be... a bad ticking lifter. If it is really bad sounding once it gets hot, have it looked at.

With all that said, if you have a newer 4.7l I would say check the manifold bolts for a broken bolt. Not real common on the 5.x but you could look into that just in case. Usually those tick when cold and go away when hot which is just the opposite from your description but ya' never know.

IndyDurango

 

Consitering he has spark plug wires I would think he has a 5.2L or 5.9L so please conferm?

First try a higher octane. The Durangos like 87 octane fuel or better.


Go get a complete tune up. Wires from the dealer. Get Champion Regular Copper Plugs (OEM) $1.95 ones. (local parts store)and gap em. Distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts from your local parts store.
The Durango is a very picky machine so get the parts listed.

Blend and high mileage lubricants are garbage. Stay away from additives. See this thread: Oil Questions?

 

Thanks for the link Hmm without reading that whole thread (I just read the first post) I'll look at the weight in the manual been using 10 by 30 as it says that on the oil cap. Question though with 109000 miles it would hurt more than help on going full synthetic? There was Quaker 4x4 originally in it, but the past year till now there's been no issues and I used castrol part synthetic till this last time and went castrol high mileage cause of the miles.

Yes I have the 5.2 L I think it has the 318 in it. I don't mind going from the lower grade gas to the mid-grade not that much more to be honest. I did have foul plugs from the wires getting to hot as they weren't placed correctly the last time plus I think it was cheap NAPA wires. I already did the plugs and wires before popping back, sorry about that. I did get Bosch Platinum 2+ as they call it as they were already preset to my OEM gap in the plug I think it is what it is called. The current grade of gas is 87 and the mid-grade here is either 89 or 91 not sure (in Washington state).

If it is a bad lifter/rod what am I looking at to fixing this or do they all need to be replaced on not just one?

Thanks in advance as I usually find what I need regularly without needing to post most often. This ordeal just has me stumped and scared to hear I need a new lifter kit. I was also suggested to take the dodge to a shop and get the oil changed but also flush out the old oil built up before adding the new as there could be sludge there blocking that lifter or such?

Since the replacement of the bad wires and foul plugs today it has yet to do anything it has previously plus more power too. Fingers crossed as I have a 180 mile round trip in less than a month and low on funds.

 

HS,
His user name is 1999_Durango_SLT. '99s didn't have 4.7s so he has to be a 5.x.

1999,
Yes the 5.2L is the 318. If you still have the Bosch Plat plugs in there, get them out. That isn't your problem but they are not helping. Plat plugs in the Magnum 5.2Ls and 5.9Ls do not traditionally do very well together.

IndyDurango

 

Hmmmmm........ Maybe I know a thing or two.....LOL


Platinum plugs do NOT WORK in this motor so pull em and get your money back and replace with the cheapo Champion Regular Copper plugs!

Second pull those POS wires and get the OEM ones.

Third get the 87 octane.

And forth Fully Synthetic oil is WAY better than regular and you need to finish reading the thread.

Fifth, clean the throttle body here is instructions : Do It Yourself (top questions and answers) FAQ's

 

A dirty TB isn't causing the problems. Not a bad idea to clean it up, but not going to fix your issue.

If you can drive the D at night and get the popping noise to start, stop out somewhere in a very dark area and pop the hood while it is popping and making the noices. In a very, very dark area with all the lights off, just look under the hood to see if you have any spark-arc from the coil or wires or disty. If so, problem identified. Do not put your hands/anything near the motor in the dark. Eyes only looking for a blue/white spark arc occurring.

IndyD

 

Thanks everyone. Going to do this stuff over the weekend. Well I really can't afford new plugs and wires just right away but will within a month. Is K&N a bad filter to have? That is what I have used over the year now on oil and air filters. Before it was STP I think or Fram. When my L&I and SSDI are over I actually plan on replacing all the internal parts of the engine core and so the tranny too along with a brand new mileage odometer as I just can't never see myself part from this vehicle and they aren't making D's no more either.

P.S. we need a thank-you mod here.

 

Has anyone had any experience on ordering from partstrain.com?

 

K&N = good

IndyD