The D uses oil, not much, but enough to irritate me...

I've had the dealer run compression tests, dry and then wet, to see if it was the rings...
wasn't happy with the reassurances so I decided to do the job myself.

So, first find yourself a shop that sells a compression tester, spark plug remover and oil can - no problem I'm sure in down town USA, but I live in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia - how's you're Arabic...??

The result of my efforts is that the cylinders start between 100psi to 125psi and after a few revolutions they top out at about 150psi. Spurt some oil in and they top out at 170psi.

None of the plugs look oil fouled...so this leaves me to think of other things...see below...

But, what I did discover was what looked like a brass extension piece in one of the spark plug holes...yes, it looks like one of the plugs was over torqued and this was inserted as a bodge to cover it up...

The spark plug lead no longer sits flush to the top of the sleeve surrounding the top of the plug and I would have noticed this, so the damage was done recently...

So I will be complaining about this...I had one of the heads replaced a couple of years ago when it cracked between the ports. I can't remeber which one but the part no. is R5852426

Can anybody tell me which side of the engine this lives on...?? If they knackered the old head then it will make me feel a little better at least.

Finally, maybe the oil leak is in the rear crankshaft oil seal...?? It ain't the front one since I just replaced it - and it ain't the plenum gasket either...

Question, if it is the rear crankshaft oil seal, then will I see oil drip from where the transmission bell housing joins the engine...what are the warning signs...??

Chris

 

Please just ignore this post...its been a long hot day here in Saudi and I guess my brain fried itself...

I've just twigged what must have happened...the compression tester was brand new and it must have come with an extension piece to make it easier to screw in...

the cylinder I'm cr*pping myself about was the first one I tested and I must have unscrewed it and left the extension in the plug hole...

its night time here in Riyadh...but I'm certain this is what must have happened...

can I apply to have my "Professional" grade reduced to "novice" please or perhaps "moron"

still wouldn't mind an answer to the oil loss issue though...if the rear crankshaft oil seal blown, what to look for...?? can't see where else it can be coming from as plugs look great and compression ok

Chris

 

LOL chris we will give ya a pass on that one. How much oil are we talking about here? how much is it burning in between oil changes would you say?

 

If the rear main is leaking then yes it will leak oil out of the engine to bellhousing mating surface.

150 psi is still good and judging from the 170 psi reading the rings are showing a little ware.

Most likely it is being caused by blow by vaporising the oil and leaving the additives. Check this thread out:
5.9L sudden complete loss of oil presure under hot/hauling conditions:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...-pressure.html

You might want to try out the Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic High Mileage Formula as it is formulated for warn motor blow by but I haven't tried it yet. 2 more weeks and a 500 mile tow trip coming up for a good test and I'll repost results.

 

The heads are interchangeable with both sides.


The R5852426 is a remanufactured head from the dealer and is interchangeable and is made for the 5.2L.


Although I'm actually finding sorces that the 5.9L head porting and valve depth as well as intake bore diameters of head R5852426 is smaller and therefore shouldn't be used for the 5.9L even though the block is the same so therefore the head should be interchangeable and according to the dealer they are the same?????


Hmmmmmm........ Looks like I have found a new project......LOL

 

thanks for not for not reducing my ranking after my dum ar*se posting - got to be one of the sillier ones of the year...

the D is loosing maybe 4 to 5mm (say maybe slightly less than 1/4") after a 1000km (say 600 mile) hard hot run to Bahrain and back - its getting gradually worse so between service intervals of 5,000km I imagine I will soon loose most of the difference between max and min on the dip stick

only started doing this recently so something has happened...the plugs themselves look good, although one maybe had a slight oil black sheen to top of the threads, a possible candidate

as it stands I think the best thing to do is let the problem reveal itself, rather than spend Riyal (or bucks...) playing hunt the oil leak...

hell, this country floats on the stuff so I think I can afford to top up the engine once it a while

Chris

 

We all have "moron" days.....LOL


Over there in Saudi Arabia things are very hot and very dry. Coupled with some blow by between the pistons and the cylinder especially with the heat of the day helping soring tempratures is causing the oil to vaporize. Fully Synthetic oil like Mobil 1 is better resiliant to these conditions. Amsoil is says theirs is better for this condition but everyone knows I like Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic.

The new Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic High Mileage 10W-30 is fortified for more viscosity at higher temperatures than the regular Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10W-30 to handle issues of worn motors . Worn motors have more typical blow by consitering the ware against the cylinder walls and rings in it's lifetime (scaring). This oil is suppost to help this very issue as well as re-fortify the gaskets.

In 2 weeks I'm towing to Yellowstone and doing a trial on this suggested oil.