1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's
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Brake and ABS Light help!!!!

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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 11:36 PM
  #61  
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it could very easily be as simple as a loose connection, start by checking all the connections and then get back to us if that fixes it
 
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 12:46 AM
  #62  
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Loose connection or a short.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #63  
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I will get it apart this weekend and get back to you guys after. How do I reset the PCM?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #64  
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disconnect the battery and hold the key to start for 30 seconds to a minute
 
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #65  
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And turn on the lights seeing your brake lights don't work. That'll drain all juice in the system.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #66  
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Here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
 
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #67  
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If you were able to read the brake error codes with a friends reader, you should be able to reset them with the same device without having to disconnect the battery.

A while ago I wrote that I was having the ABS light problem. All sensors checked out OK. I took the Durango to my local independent shop (they invest in good diagnostic gear, including major manufacturer's software). They said definitely the ABS control module, and also a pressure sensor switch for rear brakes. I checked on-line, but couldn't find a re-worked controller. I was skeptical about the pressure switch, but I didn't have time to deal with it, and since I have had good experience with them before I told the garage to go ahead and do the work. Turns out the controller was on back order, and took a few weeks to come in.

After the work was done, there were obviously no warning lights, but the improvement in braking effciency was amazing. I think the pressure switch had been faulty almost since new, it had always felt like it was nose-diving with the front brakes doing all the work. I dismissed it as a design feature, avoiding rear-wheel lockup, and the ABS only kicked in when the front wheels were on snow/ice or a loose surface. I had changed the rear brake shoes at 130K miles even though they were barely worn compared to the new ones. Now the Durango stops much flatter and quicker, the rear brakes obviously doing their share of the work. And the cost at the shop wasn't awful either.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 02:23 PM
  #68  
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Default Abs!!!!

Originally Posted by hdskipper
Same problem. ABS light and Brake warning light.Had no problem with speedometer.

Used ohm meter to read the 3 sensors. Fronts read around 1k, the differential read open.

Bottom line: Car Quest had the rear sensor for less than $27. Auto Zone and Advanced had to special order, Over $40 for each.

The Car Questpart boxhad a genuine Mopar sensor inside.

Yes the connector was turned 90% from the original but a connector pigtail is included for the extra needed length. Make sure you get this sensor fully seated on the first go! Otherwise the control reads a sensor is present and won't show a fault at startup but won't "read" the teeth"so when you touch the brakes the first time after getting up enough speed to the enable the ABS, it will think the rear wheels are locked and start the abs pump to modulate the rear brake hydraulic pressure.
I posted a few messages in the past couple weeks. Let me sum it up. Replaced rear sensor, lights off/ speedo works.
New prob, ABS pump runs 0-20MPH.
Inspected front wheel sensors. Rt one was in pieces, so I replaced it.
Prob still there.
Had ABS module re worked for $150.
Installed and prob still there.

Help please! I read that if the rear sensor wasn't fully seated, it could cause this prob. So I took it out and reseated it. It was flush. If it wasn't fully seated the first time, is there anything that needs to be reset? I already reset the PCM. I am not getting any codes or lights and I really don't want to take it to the dealer. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #69  
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I would say take it to a dealer.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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unfortunately hydra is on the right track, this seems to be above the capability of most backyard mechanics so the dealer is the best bet to get it right
 
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