So, All though scan tools that say they read all compliant can and odb1 and 2 plus abs and srs cdata are all bogus?!! Because I failed inspection because of the abs and brake light...all my brake stuff is new and I had the rear diff abs sensor replaced and the lights were still on. and now its shifting weird from 1st to 2nd...and the stealer ship wants $225 just to clear the code. way too stupid imo. so buying and actron or other is not going to actually read the abs codes though it says it will?

Mark

 

idk i have never seen a cheap handheld scanner which claims to read abs codes, and even if it can read them it very likely cannot erase them

 

not necessarily cheap. Just hand held. There are actrons that will do it.

 

I have had this issue trying to get my Durango to pass thee inspection I looked all over for answers I tried everything last resort was the whole abs modual and pump which was to pricy so I got creative I couldn't actually solve the problem but I did get it to pass I took the instrument cluster out and taped over the coontacts for the removable abs bulb.I then wired the abs bulb to the check engine light bulb.the breaks warning light is a bit more tricky as it is a hardwired led bulb. I made the hole in the cluster housing bigger with a knife and screw driver using a small bulb a rubber grommet and some finger nail polish made the white bulb red cover up led bulb and ran a wire from the new bulb to the contacts on the cruise control dash light and BOOM all dash lights cycle on and of with engine start up it worked great (side note) if they are testing the light on park break application then u can run a second bulb and wire it to the copper contacts in e break peddle and the to another live wire just make sure u have a good ground and a fuse and make sure u hide your wires the best part is your not breaking any laws and its all reversible so if u ever get the urge and mony to properly fix the problem then u can and still have all ur lights.hope this helps I have spent 3 months vigourisly trying to figure something out this could still work with slightly newer models with all led dash just will require a thick stubborn skull and a lot of outsidethebox kind of thinking good luck

 

Replacing the ABS Control Module fixed the problem.

 

My abs and brake lights stay on. Also the pump near the master cylinder constantly runs and will not shut off and drains the battery unless I remove the fuse for the abs. Could anyone please give me some insights on what it might be? Thank you in advance.

 

Pull the fuse for just the pump for now. Is it 4whl abs or 2whl?

 

mine was doing the same, pump runs constantly and abs and brake light on.... drove it for 4 years like that (pulled the fuse), now driving the truck in the winter and wanted abs again.... so i found these guys....
http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/...ODU-01-ABS.htm

ordered and installed and all things fixed
hope it helps

 

I love this site. Another problem solved for under $19. ABS and brake light has been on for months, though brakes seemed fine. My husband does all the work, but I usually have to do the diagnosis when any of the warning lights are on. Figured the prob was one of the abs sensors, but the question was which one. Everything I needed to know, I found here. When I told my husband that according to what I read here, he needs to take note of how the speedometer was working. And, sure enough he said the speedometer wasnt reading at low speeds under 15 or 20mph....he hadnt mentioned that before. So, thanks to you people, that was the clue to the problem being the rear abs sensor, which was a quick, easy and cheap fix.

 

ABS sensor on rear diff. I changed mine today and did the trick.. Remember to unhook your batery