Alrighty, as per my other thread, my A/C is being wonky. The rear A/C has always worked great, but my front was blowing warm. The compressor was rapidly cycling (clicks on, a few seconds later clicks off). So, I put a can of 134 with Leak Sealer in it. The Front A/C started blowing VERY cold. Truck was at normal operating temperature with A/C on Max, Fan on Max, temp selector on full cold.

I noticed after I added that can of 134, that one of the lines began sweating PROFUSELY, to the point it was dripping condensation. And it's not just the metal parts of the line, it was the rubber as well. Ambient Air temp was about 76 degrees Farenheit, and Relative Humidity was about 69%.

I've NEVER seen an A/C line on a car sweat that heavily before. I assume from the adding of the can of 134, and the resulting HUGE drop in A/C temperature, that I have a slow leak somewhere. Short of buying one of those UV-Detection kits, and adding dye to my system, is there really any other way to determine the source of a leak? Also, what is the average cost of getting a shop to do the UV test for me? I really don't feel like dumping 1000$ into JUST getting the A/C fixed.

I'm moving to Michigan in a few days, and the heat up there really isn't ever a "problem" (being as I'm originally from Mississippi, nowhere really gets that hot compared to there :P). Also, what is the chance of the compressor locking up completely if I don't fix the leak, and just run it like it is? Also, if I decide to bypass the compressor with a NO-A/C belt, can I go back later and hook it back up, when I get the problem fixed, or is letting a compressor sit on the vehicle for an extended length of time going to cause it to be useless when I go to reconnect it?.

This truck has given me both extreme joy, and extreme hell. The Window motors on the driver and passenger front, are EXTREMELY slow, and take forever to roll up/down. And the door locks make a horrid screeching noise when I use them (the Passenger door lock no longer operates when the keyfob is used or when the electronic switch is used, I have to manually open the lock ****) (well, it works when locking, not opening...). Not to mention I've already had to replace the ECM (1200 clams..), and I STILL haven't found the source of the slight coolant odor I get inside the cab.

Should I just trade up, and get a second-Gen Durango, or keep dumping thousands into this one :|

 

Well nobody can tell you to trade up but yourself.. you need to make that descion. Now the A/C leak could cost anywhere from $100 to $1000 depending on what shop you take it to (they all rip off at differnt levels) and what parts are bad. This we don't know the answer to as well. Dye is a good way to find it, another way is using expensive equipment that is like a "smeller" that detects refrigernt and locats it that way. the window motor problem can be fixed for $10 and some time (you have to pull the regulators and replace the brushes) The door locks well most liklaly are getting cuaght and making noise or you simply need to spray some lythum grease on it. all easy fixes if u take time to pull the panels and be willing to work on it. ya you will get a few cuts and knicks pulling the window motors but worth saving money to me. Now the A/C i say try the dye and go from there.

 

My passenger window is slow as well and the passenger door lock is also doing what yous is. Let me know if you get the door lock fix and i'll do the same if I get mine fixed before you

 

If it is cooling well, and running well, and you are not having to put coolant back in... who cares that it is sweating? It's just condensation/water. As the outside temps change, so will that.

I wrapped all the lines up to the larger drier area. The CANT sweat now... but that area pours. No big deal. (No real huge improvement actually with the wrap, just a small percentage better)

Windows are about $70 to fix and the locks are the same. I don't see the "thousands to fix" but to each his own. Here is the lock repair procedures. My windows are slow but until broken, they are going to be changed out personally:

Locks Squealing
and
Locks Squealing - Part Deux

Happy to help.

IndyDurango

 

It is normal for the return line to the compressor to sweat! Just make sure it will not freeze. If it freezes all the way to the compressor itself, chances are, the system has been overfilled and damage to compressor due to hydraulics will occur.

 

Kensai is our A/C man over here so take his advice.