1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Leaking Antifreeze

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  #11  
Old 08-28-2009, 10:05 PM
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Cool i am getting a set... I really like the look..


Lets see a pic from above (under the hood shot)
 

Last edited by schusterjo; 08-28-2009 at 10:14 PM.
  #12  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:23 PM
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They look good but whats the output? Also, whats the resistance of the wires? I dislike that I can't find this information?
 
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Duranged408
Yeppers, livewires.
Got em with my PD kit -screamin demon/livewires/cap/rotor etc etc got the wires and cap in blue
Part# DODGETKKIT (SD Coil, LiveWires, Cap & Rotor) $179.96 Wires alone are $95. though

That's cheap. I'm running Magnecor's now. They are not so cheap. Since they are 3 years old, time for something new. I'm going LiveWires! Looks great.

IndyD
 
  #14  
Old 08-29-2009, 10:26 AM
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^ Does anyone know the specs on these? ^
 
  #15  
Old 08-29-2009, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
^ Does anyone know the specs on these? ^
best I could find for ya
http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm
has number on page u may be able to call and get more specifics.
 
  #16  
Old 08-29-2009, 06:23 PM
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Im running .065" gap with no problems, the coil and wires do the trick...
Indy make sure you get larger wire holders if you do get the live wires, they wont fit any off the shelf product, i had to drill out plastic ones. They sell billet ones that do the trick.. Also if your getting the coil you'll need the adapter aswell..
Originally Posted by schusterjo
Cool i am getting a set... I really like the look..


Lets see a pic from above (under the hood shot)
Cant really get ya any good shots, im on 6 months 5 events mud dirt build up so the engine bay isnt the cleanest. (Remember im sportin no fenderwells so psssshhhttt on the dirty bay comments...) Ima try and get some time next week to run through and clean er up. I'd like to say im on 2+ years on these and still holding strong.. when i clean em up i'll show ya how purty they keep.


 
  #17  
Old 08-31-2009, 12:19 PM
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Freeze plugs, Okay, I haven't not thought of checking around that area or the lower area of the engine, but yeah, hopefully it is not. I only smell the antifreeze from outside the vehicle while engine is running. And I don't smell it all the time. Random times only. When I do smell it, it is feint, not a strong odor. But feint enough to cause me to look around. So far, everything on top of the motor to water pump is dry. Had a couple of shops did a visual inspection and did not find any either. I thought it may have been my heater core going out again but as the water is draining out of my drain tube from the evap core, I felt it and smelt it and no indication of antifreeze leak.

The last time I had leaks were coming from the t-stat housing and the return heater hose tube connected to waterpump. I have fixed both areas a long time ago and so far, they are still dry. If the leak is coming from t-stat housing, time for new intake manifold (edelbrock air gap!!) aluminum in that area is pitted up badly from previous leak. Also had the head gaskets replaced from dealer a while back before my factory warranty ran out.

But right now, I am monitoring my antifreeze fluid level. Been having to refill the reservoir every couple months. or every month if I drive it more often.
 
  #18  
Old 08-31-2009, 04:47 PM
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Replace the radiator cap with a 15psi. If you're smelling coolant it's probably letting pressure get by. I was having a problem with mine bubbling over into the overflow resevoir. I did a flush and fill and new cap. All OK now. Prestone sells a good kit. Quick & easy. Refill to at least a 50/50 mixture so that it tests out to 265 degrees before boil over.
 

Last edited by Facory; 08-31-2009 at 04:49 PM.
  #19  
Old 08-31-2009, 11:02 PM
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Livewire = "A spiral wound core also offers extremely low resistance of 300 - 350 Ohms per foot for optimum spark travel."
http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm



MSD = "In a single 12 inch length of Super Conductor Wire there is only 40 - 50 ohms of resistance! That is the lowest resistance of any helically wound wire"
http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=6339


I wonder which one is better........... Not Livewire!


Originally Posted by Duranged408
Im running .065" gap with no problems, the coil and wires do the trick...
Indy make sure you get larger wire holders if you do get the live wires, they wont fit any off the shelf product, i had to drill out plastic ones. They sell billet ones that do the trick.. Also if your getting the coil you'll need the adapter aswell..
I run 0.42 gap on my MSD after indepth review into the hotter burning plug. I tried many different gaps and found this the best for me. No matter what you shouldn't need more than + .010 over OEM setting at .040 for the 5.9L and 5.2L respectfully. The output of the coil is 40,000 volts which the OEM is 36,000 volts. The MSD coil (8228) I run (which has a better name) runs the same 40,000 output and MSD stand by their products with the history as you can see. http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5067

Here is the ignition I have with exception of the cap an rotor that I am doing a test with Echlin products. 50k + miles on these bad boys.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-ignition.html
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; 08-31-2009 at 11:05 PM.
  #20  
Old 11-15-2009, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Kensai
My truck is leaking Antifreeze. Problem is, I cannot locate the leak. I am having to watch my reservior and have to refill it about every few months. It's a very slow leak. I took the truck to a couple places check for leaks and they cannot find it. Once in a while when the truck is idling, I can smell the antifreeze but still cannot find the leak. The leak must be small enough that it may hit the block and evaporate right away.
The antifreeze is leaking into the cylinders
blown head gasket it will idle rough every six months to 8months to the point u have to replace the injector.
 


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