Right front brake sticking
#1
Right front brake sticking
My first post on this forum.
I've searched and searched but could not find anything on my particular issue.
99 Durango 4x4 5.2L w/ABS
I discovered (what I thought to be) a bad front right caliper that was stuck closed and had worn the pad down to metal.
Replaced the caliper and bled the line, new pads, new rotor (did same on left side).............brake still does not completely release.
Replaced the flexible brake hose thinking perhaps it was partially collapsed. No dice, brake still does not release.
The next thing upstream would seem to be the HCU which appears to be part and parcel of the Antilock Control Assembly. Smells expensive!
Has anyone come across this issue before? Any ideas? Am I looking in the right place?
I've searched and searched but could not find anything on my particular issue.
99 Durango 4x4 5.2L w/ABS
I discovered (what I thought to be) a bad front right caliper that was stuck closed and had worn the pad down to metal.
Replaced the caliper and bled the line, new pads, new rotor (did same on left side).............brake still does not completely release.
Replaced the flexible brake hose thinking perhaps it was partially collapsed. No dice, brake still does not release.
The next thing upstream would seem to be the HCU which appears to be part and parcel of the Antilock Control Assembly. Smells expensive!
Has anyone come across this issue before? Any ideas? Am I looking in the right place?
#2
Is there any high spots on the control arm brackets that the brake pad arm slide on and did you lubricate this contact point?
Also could be a proportioning valve located here driver side front wheel:
3.jpg?t=1232684597
4.jpg?t=1232684631
Also could be a proportioning valve located here driver side front wheel:
3.jpg?t=1232684597
4.jpg?t=1232684631
#3
Problem solved. Turned out to be the steering knuckle of all things.
The brackets on the knuckle that the brake pads slide across were bent and gouged causing the pads to get stuck and not release. I can only speculate that they were damaged by the original failed caliper.
At any rate, I was able to find a suitable donor at the junkyard thanks to Cash for Clunkers For all of 20 bucks as compared to almost $600 for new from Mopar.
The brackets on the knuckle that the brake pads slide across were bent and gouged causing the pads to get stuck and not release. I can only speculate that they were damaged by the original failed caliper.
At any rate, I was able to find a suitable donor at the junkyard thanks to Cash for Clunkers For all of 20 bucks as compared to almost $600 for new from Mopar.
#4
Problem solved. Turned out to be the steering knuckle of all things.
The brackets on the knuckle that the brake pads slide across were bent and gouged causing the pads to get stuck and not release. I can only speculate that they were damaged by the original failed caliper.
At any rate, I was able to find a suitable donor at the junkyard thanks to Cash for Clunkers For all of 20 bucks as compared to almost $600 for new from Mopar.
The brackets on the knuckle that the brake pads slide across were bent and gouged causing the pads to get stuck and not release. I can only speculate that they were damaged by the original failed caliper.
At any rate, I was able to find a suitable donor at the junkyard thanks to Cash for Clunkers For all of 20 bucks as compared to almost $600 for new from Mopar.
#5
Not quite. It was required that the engine be destroyed prior to arriving at the junkyard but then they have 6 months to sell off the other useable parts. After the 6 months the remaining parts are to be destroyed and the government notified that the car is gone for good.
The Pull a Part in Atlanta has an entire section consisting of many, many cars that are C4C refuse.
#6
#7
Right Front Caliper Sticking
Greetings all, Have trusty 95 3500 5.9 325,000
It used to be a daily driver, then sat for awhile. Towards the end of its reighn as the main squeeze I remember that it pulled hard to the left when brakeing, as I am not an aggressive driver I lived with it, the only thing was when I did need to stop in a hurry the right brake would stick. Stick to the point of smoking. Then after it cooled down it would go back to the left wheel doing all the stopping work. (took awhile to stop that thing loaded) THis year I decided to fix up what was needed, exhaust brakes tires ect, and all is well exept that the right brake doesn't do the equal job the left does so it pulls to the left just as before and the right still is sticking even with everything new. (I had originally thought that the sticking was due to age, rust and lack of lubrication) But now with New wheel bearings, new calipers, new totors and pads. Hmmmmmmm, A little confused
Got any suggestions? I am leaning towards the antilock brake block having somthing to do with it.
All suggestions and testing ideas welcome
Thanks
It used to be a daily driver, then sat for awhile. Towards the end of its reighn as the main squeeze I remember that it pulled hard to the left when brakeing, as I am not an aggressive driver I lived with it, the only thing was when I did need to stop in a hurry the right brake would stick. Stick to the point of smoking. Then after it cooled down it would go back to the left wheel doing all the stopping work. (took awhile to stop that thing loaded) THis year I decided to fix up what was needed, exhaust brakes tires ect, and all is well exept that the right brake doesn't do the equal job the left does so it pulls to the left just as before and the right still is sticking even with everything new. (I had originally thought that the sticking was due to age, rust and lack of lubrication) But now with New wheel bearings, new calipers, new totors and pads. Hmmmmmmm, A little confused
Got any suggestions? I am leaning towards the antilock brake block having somthing to do with it.
All suggestions and testing ideas welcome
Thanks
Last edited by Digitheadman; 04-21-2017 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Misspelled and wrong indication right to left on wheels