Hello,

My wife just got a used 2000 4.7 Durango and what do you know the rear drum brakes are shot leaking cylinders and broken springs, bad pads. anyone have a video on how to rebuild? (strapped for cash. already did a tune up and front brakes so i need to do it myself)


what is worrying me most is when i took off the left rear tire it had a lot of play I am guessing the outer bearings are shot? (when i turn I can hear the drum hitting the dust plate it also has a grove) How hard would it be to replace? would i also need a new axle? or is my whole axle shot?

sorry for all the ? I am stressed out cus we just got it and trying to make a trip to PA to see kelly's dieing grandpa in hospice that gave her cash to buy a second car.

thank you very much and plenty blessing to you all.

located in north GA if you could give a hand could buy lunch and beer.

 

Welcome to the forum

download the service Manuel from here
http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Durango-Service-Manual.html

You will need adobe reader if you do not have already
http://get.adobe.com/reader/?promoid=BUIGO

once downloaded to open the Manuel, the password is:
pdftown.com


You will find the brake section in there that will show you how to do it.

 

thanks

 

1. No body has a video. I was going to do it when it comes up on my truck.

2. A lot of play on the rear axle bearing means the bearing is shot. This is the rear wheel axle bearing. You first need to remover the axle from the axle housing and then heat the bearing up to get it to remove form the axle. Then install the new one on to the axle shaft. Then you replace the outer axle seal by setting it using a flat piece of material that is softer than the bearing (like wood). Place it over the seal and smack the softer material with a hammer (flat) to push the seal into place (setting the seal). Place the axle shaft into the axle housing (careful not to maul the new seal) and bolt it back down. Run about 100 miles and replace the lubricate in the rear differential with 80W-90 lubricant. I prefer Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. If you have a limited slip rear end you need to put a Friction Modifier in as well to the lubricant. Friction Modifier can be bought at the dealer.

3. The dust shield should not be touching the the drum. Bend it away from the drum. Not worth the replacement unless you need it and it would have to be welded.

4. You would not need a new axle. There are 2 different things. The axel housing and the internal axle.

 

sorry about your family member by the way

 

hydrashocker - first of all thanks for the reply. I took off the left rear axle shaft but the bearing did not really look messed up as i would have thought. (could the play come from some other place) I am going to the auto parts store to pick up a tool that would pull the old bearing off the axle tube. Also i think the new bearing and the seal comes as one part? thats the way it looks on the new bearing. let me know what ya think. ill try to put a vid up.


ooh yeah, thanks a lot schusterjo

 

No the bearing must be the problem or a worn axle shaft. For $15 bucks just replace the bearing and seal. Remember to lube the seal and bearing with 80W-90 gear oil to lubricate them during install. I have done MANY bearings that didn't look bad but might have a worn cage/race/ bearing or needles. Just replace it!

It is a good idea while you have the tools out and if you have the cash think about doing the other side.

The bearing and seal are 2 separate parts. They can come out together by using the puller but install is separate I'm sure. I will attach the 2000 Dodge Durango Service Manual for Differential and Driveline. Not sure if you have the 8.25 or 9.25 axle but it covers both.

 

Well I can't upload the file for some reason but you can download the 2000 Dodge Durango Service Manual here http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Durango-Service-Manual.html It's located under section 3.

The password if asked is "pdftown.com".

 

ok replaced it and it has no more play in it. i should have done the other side but did not, dam rear drum brakes are kicking my ***. hope the other side goes faster then bleed the brake sytm and i am ready for a test drive.

 

Thanks for all the help hydrashocker. I got it all done and working fine.



Now I got new problems, the A/C in not blowing cold and I got water on the pass floor. (It looks like the drain must be clogged) Also the compressor is going on and off. (I know i need a new belt wonder if that will help it?) Something is also ticking I cant tell if its a hole in the muffler or heads. I am off to the search pages!