Fan clutch always running when engine started?
#1
09-04-2009, 08:23 AM
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Clutch fan always running when engine started?
(Someone please answer...I need to know ASAP)
I have a 98 Durango...just replaced water pump, themostat etc.
When I tightened the Fan clutch to the pump pulley the nut went pretty much right against the pulley? Is it supposed to?
How do you tighten the nut tight with out the pulley turning?
Also from the time I start the car the fan is running fast....is it supposed to be running all the time?
Lastly how do to purge the air from cooling system?
Thanks in advance
I have a 98 Durango...just replaced water pump, themostat etc.
When I tightened the Fan clutch to the pump pulley the nut went pretty much right against the pulley? Is it supposed to?
How do you tighten the nut tight with out the pulley turning?
Also from the time I start the car the fan is running fast....is it supposed to be running all the time?
Lastly how do to purge the air from cooling system?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by lakers1997; 09-04-2009 at 11:38 AM.
#2
09-06-2009, 01:46 AM
Hall Of Fame
1. Yes.
2. The pulley must be tightened with a special tool to get the correct torque. But to do it you can do to things. (a) hold the pulley back using the fan belt (installed) and hold it with some great grip while you tighten. (b) use the correct tool.
3. Usually after replacing the fan it runs like that but with time loosens up and this especially if you installed a HD fan clutch pulley.
4. To get the air out of the 5.2L and 5.9L you make sure you replace the T-stat with a T-stat that has a bleeder in it that lets the air out of the T-stat housing. Make sure you test the T-stat before install before install. It is better to install the 180 F degree T-stat because of the steel heads and the proven fact that they don't like the 15 degree difference of the 195 OEM high was installed for emissions only. To purge the air install one of these T-stats and fill with antifreeze with at least 50%/50% antifreeze/distilled water or greater antifreeze. Leave the radiator cap off and fill tell full. Turn on the heater to HI heat and also the fan and start the motor. Run the motor for about 10-15 minutes watching the level and replacing the liquid. Play with the throttle linkage to bring the RPM's to about 2k RPM and hold replacing liquid as it drops. Place the radiator cap on while the RPM's are in the 2K range. Fill the recovery tank to proper level.
Check the level again after cool down period.
2. The pulley must be tightened with a special tool to get the correct torque. But to do it you can do to things. (a) hold the pulley back using the fan belt (installed) and hold it with some great grip while you tighten. (b) use the correct tool.
3. Usually after replacing the fan it runs like that but with time loosens up and this especially if you installed a HD fan clutch pulley.
4. To get the air out of the 5.2L and 5.9L you make sure you replace the T-stat with a T-stat that has a bleeder in it that lets the air out of the T-stat housing. Make sure you test the T-stat before install before install. It is better to install the 180 F degree T-stat because of the steel heads and the proven fact that they don't like the 15 degree difference of the 195 OEM high was installed for emissions only. To purge the air install one of these T-stats and fill with antifreeze with at least 50%/50% antifreeze/distilled water or greater antifreeze. Leave the radiator cap off and fill tell full. Turn on the heater to HI heat and also the fan and start the motor. Run the motor for about 10-15 minutes watching the level and replacing the liquid. Play with the throttle linkage to bring the RPM's to about 2k RPM and hold replacing liquid as it drops. Place the radiator cap on while the RPM's are in the 2K range. Fill the recovery tank to proper level.
Check the level again after cool down period.
