My owner's manual specifies ATF+3, but all the threads on here strongly suggest ATF+4. Is +4 an improvement that came out after 1999?
I have a '99 Durango with the 5.2 and am wondering which transmission fluid to use.

 

if your manual says to use atf 3 then that will be fine, but im prettys ure you could use 4 without a problem too, 4 is just an improved version and should help extend the life of your trans, it is up to you which you use, if it were me i would use exactly what the manual recomends so in your case the atf +3

 

On your older transmission, stick with the stock fluids. No reason to change it now. 2000+ with lower miles, make the switch. All 2001+ use ATF+4. On the 98/99s its a pickum' however leaking etc could occur. Just leave it as is, make SURE you stay on top of regular maintenance.

If you can't find ATF+3, have a trans shop do it for you with their stuff.

IndyDurango

 

Hum i read somewhere that it was recommended that previous ATF+3 could and should upgrade to ATF+4.. I am almost positive i read that on allpar somewhere.

 

On autos that can yes. Same for the power steering EXCEPT for 98/99 Ds and SOME 2000s (mine included.) Most Ds are recommended to swap ATF+4 into the PS as well. Not me and certainly not a 98/99.

Some can and should move to ATF+4 inthe transmission, some it is best to not do so. On an old 98 or 99, I wouldn't. I swapped at 120,000 miles and developed a leak. I had no issues, I serviced it regualrly but swapped anyways for the ATF+4 advantages. In the end, I didn't need to. I was right on the edge of where I would personally recommend it. As 98 & 99s get older and older, there is not value to do so.

With that said, +3 is getting hard to find. And 98/99s are getting older and junked more often. As time goes on, this is a non-issue whereas no 98/99s will be left that matter. How many at 12, 15 or more years will be running stock transmissions if they are running at all?

As you get a transmission swap due to a failure, for sure run ATF+4 only.

YMMV.

IndyDurango

 

Thanks for the advice. I am at 134,000 miles so will stick with the +3 if I can find it.

But hey! Let's not start talking about replacing the transmission. I just got this thing 3 weeks ago.

 

^ LOL ^

AFT+3 was replaced in production to ATF+4. ATF+4 is ATF+3 with more modifiers and and better detergents and is also Fully Synthetic. One of the reasons you developed a leak is because Fully Synthetic is more runny compared to regular, also after a while slight deposits will fill in a small hole where slight leaks occurred. In most cases you won't even know it's there. When someone switches over to Fully Synthetics you get a more detergents and runner fluid that cleans out these deposits. Once the deposits are gone the fluid can escape out of the slight leak again. This time the detergents keep it clean and the runny Fully Synthetic lubricants can run out.

As for the question, use ATF+3 as Indy states but you can use ATF+4 if you need to add some. Regular lubricants can mix with Fully Synthetics but I like to keep it seporate. Do not use ANY OTHER FLUID! Multi-vehicle fluid is NOTcompatable!


Off topic:

Now this is the reason old engine owners switch over and develop leaks. One big thing you have to worry about is if these deposits make their way in between the combustion rings. After the detergents in the Fully Synthetic oil cleans it out it can start to burn oil!

 

I already have a minor leak and definitely don't want to encourage more. Hopefully I can find +3. I'll start another thread about the trouble I am having measuring the fluid level.

 

FLUID LEVEL CHECK

Transmission fluid level should be checked monthly
under normal operation. If the vehicle is used for
trailer towing or similar heavy load hauling, check
fluid level and condition weekly. Fluid level is
checked with the engine running at curb idle speed,
the transmission in NEUTRAL and the transmission
fluid at normal operating temperature.

FLUID LEVEL CHECK PROCEDURE

(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive
vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to
normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).

(2) Position vehicle on level surface.

(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.

(4) Apply parking brakes.

(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear
ranges. Then shift transmission back to Neutral.

(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep
dirt from entering tube.

(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 10) and check fluid level
as follows:

(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow
mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopar

CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Overfilling
may cause leakage out the pump vent which
can be mistaken for a pump seal leak. Overfilling
will also cause fluid aeration and foaming as the
excess fluid is picked up and churned by the gear
train. This will significantly reduce fluid life.

FLUID AND FILTER REPLACEMENT

Refer to the Maintenance Schedules in Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, for proper service
intervals. The service fluid fill after a filter change is

approximately 3.8 liters (4.0 quarts)

 

I did all of that, except i had it in park instead of neutral when I checked. The issue is that the dipsick was covered with bubbles well above the max level. I've seen conflicting references saying bubbles suggest both too low and too high fluid levels. I also checked the level when it was cold and the dipstick showed a low level.