Virginia-minneapolis bound
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Virginia-minneapolis bound
Well, it is almost time... The ever famous 18 hour road trip to the twin cities, Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN) just a few updates on some recent work.
Lets start with the last work and go forward.
SEPT 25th: R/R Transmission fluid/filter and pan. Replaced with the Mag-Hytek model with the drain plug and VALVOLINE ATF+4 (FYI plan on about 7.0 quarts if you use the MAG-HYTEK pan.)
SEPT 27th: Added a brushed aluminum trim plate for the instrument panel. available on E-bay for $25.00 easy installation, and looks nice, I will add some photos to my garage soon.
Oct 1st: 4 Wheel Alignment Pepboys, I followed the advise from a previous thread and checked to make sure it was back to factory specs. The steering wheel was about 15 degrees off center but I took it back and had it reset right away. I got dinged for an outer tie rod end passengers side but overall no major issues.
OCT 2nd: Wash/wax/buff/interior/shampoo, total detailing job and for only $50
OCT 2nd: OVERHEATING Sitting at idle while allowing battery to charge and working on rearranging/packing the vehicle for the MSP roadtrip I heard a warning chime from the back of the vehicle. Went up and noticed the CHECK GAGES light on and the temp gage on the high end of the range band. I shut it down for a bit and then about 30 minutes later drove it around the block to get some airflow across the radiator to cool off. Worked for a bit then shut down again to cool and start over. When we went to dinner it started overheating again, so I started backtracing my work. Could not for the life of me figure out, it had coolant, and apparent flow. Went to Pepboys in MD and just got lucky in them still being there at 7:00 pm Anyhoo, Got it in, had it checked and luckily for me it was just an air pocket in the system I would say most likely from the removal of the filler neck a couple of weeks ago trying out that new cap. Coolant serviced and replaced as necessary to remove air pocket. NO charge and manager allowed me to keep the remainder of the bottle just in case. Thanks Manny moe and Jack!!!!!
FYI BATTERY DRAIN was from resetting the XM antenna, it got disconnected and I had the ignition accessory on to check the connection, but I am good now.
Oct 3rd: BATTERY, Finally replaced. It still had a little left in it but with the road trip and subsequent winter coming up, I decided it was as good as time as any to r/r. Replaced with Duralast Gold with 750 CCA for the MSP winter. BRING IT ON!!!!!!!
That is it for now, I will post again from MSP unless there is a major problem.
Steve
Lets start with the last work and go forward.
SEPT 25th: R/R Transmission fluid/filter and pan. Replaced with the Mag-Hytek model with the drain plug and VALVOLINE ATF+4 (FYI plan on about 7.0 quarts if you use the MAG-HYTEK pan.)
SEPT 27th: Added a brushed aluminum trim plate for the instrument panel. available on E-bay for $25.00 easy installation, and looks nice, I will add some photos to my garage soon.
Oct 1st: 4 Wheel Alignment Pepboys, I followed the advise from a previous thread and checked to make sure it was back to factory specs. The steering wheel was about 15 degrees off center but I took it back and had it reset right away. I got dinged for an outer tie rod end passengers side but overall no major issues.
OCT 2nd: Wash/wax/buff/interior/shampoo, total detailing job and for only $50
OCT 2nd: OVERHEATING Sitting at idle while allowing battery to charge and working on rearranging/packing the vehicle for the MSP roadtrip I heard a warning chime from the back of the vehicle. Went up and noticed the CHECK GAGES light on and the temp gage on the high end of the range band. I shut it down for a bit and then about 30 minutes later drove it around the block to get some airflow across the radiator to cool off. Worked for a bit then shut down again to cool and start over. When we went to dinner it started overheating again, so I started backtracing my work. Could not for the life of me figure out, it had coolant, and apparent flow. Went to Pepboys in MD and just got lucky in them still being there at 7:00 pm Anyhoo, Got it in, had it checked and luckily for me it was just an air pocket in the system I would say most likely from the removal of the filler neck a couple of weeks ago trying out that new cap. Coolant serviced and replaced as necessary to remove air pocket. NO charge and manager allowed me to keep the remainder of the bottle just in case. Thanks Manny moe and Jack!!!!!
FYI BATTERY DRAIN was from resetting the XM antenna, it got disconnected and I had the ignition accessory on to check the connection, but I am good now.
Oct 3rd: BATTERY, Finally replaced. It still had a little left in it but with the road trip and subsequent winter coming up, I decided it was as good as time as any to r/r. Replaced with Duralast Gold with 750 CCA for the MSP winter. BRING IT ON!!!!!!!
That is it for now, I will post again from MSP unless there is a major problem.
Steve
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
I LOVE the DuraLast Gold Series Batteries. The price is right, battery lasts, great overall power, and the best warranty. What more could you ask for?
Sounds like your up and ready to roll. Try high octane and low octane and keep mileage and gallon tally. I think the best mileage results for most of us is traveling under 75 mph.
Sounds like your up and ready to roll. Try high octane and low octane and keep mileage and gallon tally. I think the best mileage results for most of us is traveling under 75 mph.
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All Star
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
INDY, MSP is for work, company hq moving there. NEG Indy, across PA Turnpike and Nrthrn OH, Indiana, Chicago, Madison, Eau Clair then MSP.
Hydra, I will keep the .75 in mind. I usually run about .70 anyway so that should be fine.
Sharp, Indy and Hydra: Thanks for the support, I will check in from there.
Steve
Hydra, I will keep the .75 in mind. I usually run about .70 anyway so that should be fine.
Sharp, Indy and Hydra: Thanks for the support, I will check in from there.
Steve
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From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
SET BACK
Enroute for first leg of the road trip to Minneapolis, the first leg was to Pittsburgh, PA (This is where 70 from MD and 76/PA Turnpike meet). Started severe overheating, when slowing down in traffic. I also had leaks from the buildup in the overflow reservior. I got it cooled enough and checked out by closest thing to mechanic in the area which was a emergency roadservice facility. They specialize in roadside recovery, and heavy rescue, but not major repairs. He did a quick test and suspected Head Gasket. I got it cooled down enough and had two options A: Back to Frederick, MD (About 80 miles and back down the mountain I had just climbed. Opposite direction of course.) B. 100 miles to Pittsburgh, the next closest major city along the turnpike and probably the next closest Pep Boys. I chose option A.
The return back to Frederick, MD was uneventful although I had to keep the heat on to keep pressure distributed evenly and got pretty good airflow across the radiator.
So basically after one of three days I am -160 miles (80 up and 80 back) of a 1200 mile road trip and was returned to Pepboys where the original work started.
Summary after pressure test and die test could not find any other issues, it was apparent that there was a problem. We did do a test of the fan clutch and that was a fail. Fail was excessive movement and bearing play. As a precaution we also changed the thermostat. So New SUPERDUTY FAN CLUTCH and Thermostat. I will be trying again tomorrow, and advise from Minneapolis with results. Although we could not find any leaks from the side tank, I am starting to suspect the radiator but without any proof, I dont want to replace unless necessary.
Back to the head gasket theory, besides the obvious coolant in the exhaust and in the oil, is there any further reason to suspect the head gasket?
Summary: NO COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST
Coolant leakage is through the overflow vent tube.
FAN CLUTCH AND THERMOSTAT REMOVED/REPLACED
Thanks, Steve
Enroute for first leg of the road trip to Minneapolis, the first leg was to Pittsburgh, PA (This is where 70 from MD and 76/PA Turnpike meet). Started severe overheating, when slowing down in traffic. I also had leaks from the buildup in the overflow reservior. I got it cooled enough and checked out by closest thing to mechanic in the area which was a emergency roadservice facility. They specialize in roadside recovery, and heavy rescue, but not major repairs. He did a quick test and suspected Head Gasket. I got it cooled down enough and had two options A: Back to Frederick, MD (About 80 miles and back down the mountain I had just climbed. Opposite direction of course.) B. 100 miles to Pittsburgh, the next closest major city along the turnpike and probably the next closest Pep Boys. I chose option A.
The return back to Frederick, MD was uneventful although I had to keep the heat on to keep pressure distributed evenly and got pretty good airflow across the radiator.
So basically after one of three days I am -160 miles (80 up and 80 back) of a 1200 mile road trip and was returned to Pepboys where the original work started.
Summary after pressure test and die test could not find any other issues, it was apparent that there was a problem. We did do a test of the fan clutch and that was a fail. Fail was excessive movement and bearing play. As a precaution we also changed the thermostat. So New SUPERDUTY FAN CLUTCH and Thermostat. I will be trying again tomorrow, and advise from Minneapolis with results. Although we could not find any leaks from the side tank, I am starting to suspect the radiator but without any proof, I dont want to replace unless necessary.
Back to the head gasket theory, besides the obvious coolant in the exhaust and in the oil, is there any further reason to suspect the head gasket?
Summary: NO COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST
Coolant leakage is through the overflow vent tube.
FAN CLUTCH AND THERMOSTAT REMOVED/REPLACED
Thanks, Steve
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
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From: Indiana
I'll be in Fort Wayne just hanging out solo (long story) on Saturday if you are coming through there then. Seems like the original schedule you would have been. Let me know. I will be just a half hour from I-80/90 that you will be coming across. You have my cell.
IndyD
IndyD
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From: Riverton, UT
Could be pressuerizing from a head gasket leak into the coolant system only when hot. I was afraid when you said it hot and I pray it isn't. If the cylinder was on compression then you might not have seen the pressure loss when pressurizing the coolant system.
What about a water pump?
What about a water pump?
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All Star
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From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Water Pump was r/r in April along with Thermostat and both hoses. No issues from pump and leak was not from water pump area. Cold engine now, getting ready for start up and I will let it warm up for a bit. I pass right by the pepboys on the way to I-70W so if anything comes up right away I should know hopefully pretty soon. Wish me Luck
Indy, Email me your phone nmbr, maineiac88@yahoo.com I got new blackberry and lost directory.
Steve
Indy, Email me your phone nmbr, maineiac88@yahoo.com I got new blackberry and lost directory.
Steve
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From: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
I am in Minneapolis, but not with good news. I am in MSP minus the Durango.
Basically the same story as Thursday but made it a little further. Started overheating around Breezewood, PA and made it to the same emergency road side service facility for another look. This time they were able to access the coolant die tester and ran the dye through with negative results on the head gasket leak. I walked down to the Sheetz for a cup of coffee and let it cool down. After cooling for almost an hour, I started up again and headed west. Vehicle was fine on the PA Turnpike, and almost all the way through Downtown Pittsburgh. Finally with the stop and go traffic during rush hour it got hot again and this time I had to shut it down and wait for rollback wrecker. Got to PepBoys around 4:00 pm and got the bad news around 6:30pm.
Hydra, are you ready for this? WATERPUMP Why it wasnt properly diagnosed last week is beyond me but that is definitely being noted with the service manager.
Long story short, $300 for fan clutch/thermostat and now another $400 for waterpump/$38 for cooling system diagnosis not to mention two days of lost travel time, 1/2 of tank of gas for the original Frederick-Breezewood-Frederick trip and the fuel of my girlfriend to come and rescue, dinner, waiting, etc...... Plus having to use another two-three days off to fly back to Pittsburgh and pick it up.
SIDEBAR: Emergency roadside repair recommended replacing the cap. I had a 20 lb cap installed as per AutoZone and Advance Computer selection, haynes and chiltons both recommend 14-18 PSI. I figured a 16 might be middle of the road and see if it might help keep the pressure down from Breezewood -Pittsburgh. Funny thing is that the 16 or 18 lb caps wont fit, it won't even fit in the neck.
Sorry for getting off on a rant here, but this is getting ridicolous so much for being the experts and the Germans making good stuff.
BTW, As far as warranty goes, even if I can get the original mechanic to cover the warrranty I would still have to truck it back to Virginia and lose even more time.
Mechanic says that although rare he has heard of these pumps going out after short time on the 4.7 engines anyone heard of a mass failure after about six months?
So with the new water pump that will be Pump, Thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch pretty much everything but the radiator and heater core. At this point do you think I am getting any benefit in going for a radiator?
Steve
Basically the same story as Thursday but made it a little further. Started overheating around Breezewood, PA and made it to the same emergency road side service facility for another look. This time they were able to access the coolant die tester and ran the dye through with negative results on the head gasket leak. I walked down to the Sheetz for a cup of coffee and let it cool down. After cooling for almost an hour, I started up again and headed west. Vehicle was fine on the PA Turnpike, and almost all the way through Downtown Pittsburgh. Finally with the stop and go traffic during rush hour it got hot again and this time I had to shut it down and wait for rollback wrecker. Got to PepBoys around 4:00 pm and got the bad news around 6:30pm.
Hydra, are you ready for this? WATERPUMP Why it wasnt properly diagnosed last week is beyond me but that is definitely being noted with the service manager.
Long story short, $300 for fan clutch/thermostat and now another $400 for waterpump/$38 for cooling system diagnosis not to mention two days of lost travel time, 1/2 of tank of gas for the original Frederick-Breezewood-Frederick trip and the fuel of my girlfriend to come and rescue, dinner, waiting, etc...... Plus having to use another two-three days off to fly back to Pittsburgh and pick it up.
SIDEBAR: Emergency roadside repair recommended replacing the cap. I had a 20 lb cap installed as per AutoZone and Advance Computer selection, haynes and chiltons both recommend 14-18 PSI. I figured a 16 might be middle of the road and see if it might help keep the pressure down from Breezewood -Pittsburgh. Funny thing is that the 16 or 18 lb caps wont fit, it won't even fit in the neck.
Sorry for getting off on a rant here, but this is getting ridicolous so much for being the experts and the Germans making good stuff.
BTW, As far as warranty goes, even if I can get the original mechanic to cover the warrranty I would still have to truck it back to Virginia and lose even more time.
Mechanic says that although rare he has heard of these pumps going out after short time on the 4.7 engines anyone heard of a mass failure after about six months?
So with the new water pump that will be Pump, Thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch pretty much everything but the radiator and heater core. At this point do you think I am getting any benefit in going for a radiator?
Steve