I've been in the same situation with the water pump before and thats why I brought it up.


Yes I've heard of them failing mid stride as I state the above sentance. Question, did you install a rebuild or new water pump to begin with.......My bets on a rebuild?


Anyway you didn't take out the head gasket and thats a GREAT thing. That wold put you back a lot more cash and time with an R&R, new pump and the whole 9 yards. As for your question with the radiator, how many miles are on the truck?

 

I saw the box and looked like a new one, but without the box or old pump I am not so sure now. I would say 99% on a new one but then the prognosis is 99% that it is the water pump so that number may not mean as much nowadays.

I have to check the old work order but as mentioned before even if I get the original install mechanic to cover the warranty I have to get the vehicle backwards another 200 miles in the opposite direction which is more work and money and accomplishes nothing.

Radiator: Mileage is the high end of 110K and some change. To the best of my knowledge it was not replaced when the transmission was rebuilt.

I would like the peace of mind of a new one but I don't want to get one if it is not necessary, especially since they seem to be using wild a** guesses with my money.

Thanks, Steve

 

I don't think you need a new one.



BTW<----- you need to get a 16 lbs radiator cap. I like the ones with the relief latch.

 

HYDRA, Is that an answer to the Radiator or water pump?

"AFTER FURTHER REVIEW OF THE PLAY" LOL!!!!

I found the online service manual and it calls for 18-21, which is apparently why ADV and A/Z use the 20lb cap as a pretty common rating. The one I installed was a 20 with the vent lever. The 16lb cap won't fit over the new filler neck.

Steve

 

Replacement of the radiator shouldn't be necessary.


Did some looking and found this info. It says it needs a 20 lbs cap but the 2000 and less is at different psi caps.......Learned something new!

2002 Durango

Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 5).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling system

according to following criteria:

Also:

WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE
WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE

THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.



1998 Durango:

RADIATOR CAP—PRESSURE TESTING

Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install cap on pressure tester 7700 or an equivalent
(Fig. 18).
Operate tester pump to bring pressure to 104 kPa
(15 psi) on gauge. If pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi) replace cap. Refer to
following

CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap

needs replacement.

 

Without getting too much comment, since this matter may lead to potential legal action, all I will say is that the w/p did not solve the problem. It is in Toledo, OH at a dealer getting the radiator replaced. Expect update mid week, but I would caution all forum members in dealing with PepBoys.

Basically the w/p was replaced and it was fine until I got off the Ohio Turnpike then started overheating again. Dealer found hot/cold spots on the radiator.

I am in Minneapolis VIA AVIS and I will be back next week to pick up the D at Charlie's Dodge Maumee OH, have any members Northwestern OH had any experience with them, either good or bad?

MAGIC

 

I didn't want to say anything since you were "sure" it was the water pump, but it didn't sound like a water pump to me.

With that said, doesn't sound like a rad will get it either. Now, a full (simple) burping and a replacement to stocker stat and we are on the right track. That should have been done:

1) before leaving
2) at time on new WP install
3) at time of 2nd new WP install
4) at time of new rad install

Certainly one time and someone will get the burp right and replace the stat somewhere along the way. To bad they are swapping the rad before those lower cost solutions.

File a "chargeback" against your VISA for the PepBoys purchase. Hold your ground and you WILL get your $ back. I'll say that again... 'hold your ground' when talking to VISA. It is a very little know regulation but you can basically attest any purchase and get a refund. Your position is you did not get what you were told you purchased. Also, use the words "I want to file a chargeback" when talking to the VISA customer support folks. The less you talk the better, just hold your ground and repeat yourself saying very little.

Good luck. Let me know a M/SP mailing address. I have stuff for you.

IndyDurango

 

WOW!

Well there can only be a few things.......Water Pump, T-Stat, Head gasket, radiator, and burping!


+1 on what Indy said tho, Hold your ground but you have to do this with in 30 days of purchase!

 

I wasn't sure it was the water pump, PEPBOYS was.

I am sure that now it is finally in the dealer hands that I would like to give the benefit of the doubt that it will be burped and air bled out of the system.

Background, Waterpump, thermostat, and both hoses were replaced in April 09, System was flushed, and serviced at that time.

Thermostat and fan clutch r/r OCT 09

I will make a note about the chargeback and get a start with the process there.

Thanks, MAGIC

 

Update.. Dealer called, said it was internal failure of the radiator. I will see it on Friday when I pick it up. As a precaution and since I could not find anything obvious which would cause the radiator to fail, I purhased the dealer upper hose assembly. This assembly includes the cap, upper hose, and inline fitting. Dealer had already installed the radiator when this was brought up, so hers what I am going to do. I will purchase and keep in the onboard spares kit. At the even first sign of overheating I will swap out but for now keep my fitting from Jeg's although I might r/r the cap or at least get a good inspection of it.