Where is the Leak Detection pump on a 2002 Dodge Durango
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Where is the Leak Detection pump on a 2002 Dodge Durango
Last night on my way home from work my check engine light came on..
today I took it in for an oil change and had them hook it up to the computer to find out why the light was on ($90 later i find online that I could have gotten this code myself without their machine).
Anyway it turns out to be the leak detection pump. They tell me i need to remove and replace this. Can anyone tell me where it is located? If this is something my son can do for me a whole lot cheaper than the garage can I would like to go that route.
Any help, instruction, tips, advice is welcomed.
thanks
today I took it in for an oil change and had them hook it up to the computer to find out why the light was on ($90 later i find online that I could have gotten this code myself without their machine).
Anyway it turns out to be the leak detection pump. They tell me i need to remove and replace this. Can anyone tell me where it is located? If this is something my son can do for me a whole lot cheaper than the garage can I would like to go that route.
Any help, instruction, tips, advice is welcomed.
thanks
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
Check the hose end connection near the battery tray/fuse box which looks like it is running into the frame rail. Usually it is an old hose that has come loose or has a deteriorating end on it. Easy fix if that is it. Here are some notes.
Also an easy fix is the same hose with a deteriorating end on the canister side. This is under the D back by the fuel tank. Just look for old worn hoses through out. The pump is usually always still fine, its the hoses that cause the problem. Dealer would charge you to replace both.
HTH,
IndyDurango
Originally Posted by siggi
This plastic line comes up behind the engine on the drivers side and hooks up to a rubber hose and that's the one who crack's. You have an 02 like me so it should be the same. This rubber hose then goes to the canister which is located under the fuse box which is behind the battery. You can slide the fuse box up if you release the clambs that hold it and then you can access the canister to change the hose that goes to that. Another hose goes to the detector unit which lies between the battery and the inner fender. you can take the battery out to better access this unit. Then the last hose goes to the manifold. Change all those rubber hoses and you should be fine
HTH,
IndyDurango
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
If it isn't the hoses, here is the rest from:
Picture 3: is the canister back at the gas tank on the frame rail.
HTH,
IndyD
Originally Posted by Greg
OBDII Code 1494
Chrysler Leak Detection Pump Repair
The Chrysler evaporative Emissions monitoring system uses an air pump to pressurize the fuel tank and charcoal canister. It has a solenoid, switch and pump all in one unit
This is a vacuum-powered diaphragm pump. It's located under the car, just behind the engine, sitting on a cross-member. Just follow the lines in the under hood vacuum hose diagram.
Picture 1:
Connections: a: common b: solenoid c: diaphragm position switch.
Picture 2:
After prying the unit apart, and de-soldering the solenoid connections the connectors and switch can be pulled out of the potting. There's a normally closed reed switch, and a diode to stop spikes from the solenoid. Either one of these may be defective. The reed switch also gets destroyed in removal. Just replacing the whole unit may be the most practical fix. In this case the reed switch contact was intermittent, due to vibration. The entire pump unit had vibrated loose from the mount
New Leak detection pump will run you about $100.
Chrysler Leak Detection Pump Repair
The Chrysler evaporative Emissions monitoring system uses an air pump to pressurize the fuel tank and charcoal canister. It has a solenoid, switch and pump all in one unit
This is a vacuum-powered diaphragm pump. It's located under the car, just behind the engine, sitting on a cross-member. Just follow the lines in the under hood vacuum hose diagram.
Picture 1:
Connections: a: common b: solenoid c: diaphragm position switch.
Picture 2:
After prying the unit apart, and de-soldering the solenoid connections the connectors and switch can be pulled out of the potting. There's a normally closed reed switch, and a diode to stop spikes from the solenoid. Either one of these may be defective. The reed switch also gets destroyed in removal. Just replacing the whole unit may be the most practical fix. In this case the reed switch contact was intermittent, due to vibration. The entire pump unit had vibrated loose from the mount
New Leak detection pump will run you about $100.
HTH,
IndyD
Last edited by IndyDurango; Nov 2, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
