Did you open the bleeder screw? It's the orange-colored allen key screw in the pic on the upper left side:


Here's the procedure. I know cause I did it...LOL...
1) Park the D on an incline, but not too much. Just enough that the rad cap is about even with the bleeder screw.
2) Open the rad cap and turn on the engine.
3) Open the bleeder screw half-way or just enough to hear air coming out or see coolant bleeding out.
4) Pour coolant into the rad via cap until you see coolant seeping out of the bleeder screw.
5) Tighten bleeder screw and replace rad cap. There, you just burped your 4.7!

 

Thanks for the burp instructions.. havent tried it your way yet, just took it for a test drive doin it my way and it still steadily rises to just under the warning light mark..

Gonna try your method next.. as far as the bleeder screw, how do I know when its half way out? are there markings? length of screw? does anything get screwed up if I accidentally back it all the way out?

I checked the oil after my drive, its not milky so I dont think I have to worry about a blown head gasket.. but im beginning to fear that its the Water pump.. Which I can neither afford the part or pay a mechanic to replace it, or have a garage to do it myself..

When I performed the burp with the just rad cap off, even when it got warm there wasnt much flow to the fluid, however it did spit up a about 20 air bubbles when I turned my heater on while it was running, so im sure it helpd a little bit.. Ill give it a try your way tomorrow morning before work or night after work and report back..

Thanks for all the help guys..

 

Let the truck get mid tem range then squeeze the upper hose, you should have some resistance squeezing it and then feel suction when you slowly let go of it. It should also feel hot if coolant is flowing through it, if coolant is not flowing through it wont be very hot. If you dont feel the suction or full heat on the hose then coolant isnt flowing and since you already replaced the thermo Id be looking at a failed water pump or a blockage.

 

If the temp is still climbing, you have more air in the system. The screw is about 3/4 in. long and you can back it out half of that. There are no markings but you can actually hear the air hissing out of the loose screw and when you add the coolant, you'll be able to see it seeping out of the threads. There's not that much harm if you take it all the way off. Just don't lose it or you'll have to look for another one at the dealer...LOL. HTH and good luck! Please keep us posted on your progress.

 

Remember the 4.7 is reverse rotation and the thermostat is on the bottom of the engine!