Alrighty,

2000 Durango 4.7L 4wd

slow cold start, low idle, and stalling problems.

Replaced TPS (resistor test confirmed old one was bad)
New Champion Spark plugs (old ones were lightly toasted)
New Battery(old one was original factory and multimeter read 10.9-11.2)

performence has improved and no longer stalls however still has a low idle and now has a slight exaust odor in cab while running

Have found no vacume holes or cracks
Will be replacing IAC
Have appt to have injectors cleaned
Will be cleaning Throttle body this weekend, (providing I don't get snowed in)

Any possible suggestions, or any bases that you can think of that haven't been covered here?

 

^ Your old battery was toast. ^

Clean the IAC, Clean the Throttle Body, Get a can of SeaFoam and run through the fuel first.

It very well might be the Air Charge Temperature Sensor. You could try to clean it but most people just replace. Lastly the MAP sensor but I think thats ok.

 

how low is the idle? my 4.7 has been known to idle at 500 rpms when its warmed up in park and iv never had problems with it cutting out or stalling 500 rpms is a pretty normal idle for a v8 engine that is properly tuned (at least in my experience)

 

idle adjuster under the throttle + kickdown cables its a hex head screw and definatly run the sea foam or go to sears and get a zoom 2 part fuel system cleaner

 

Idles at about 500 cold or warm, warmed up it didn't usually stall though occasionally it would at stop signs.

Mostly it was having problems starting and wouldn't hold an idle at all unless you held the throttle open at about 2000 for several minutes after which it might stall and you had to go through the process again, or might flutter at barely 500 but did manage to stay going, got better as it warmed up.

Though it hasn't stalled nor do I need to touch the throttle to get it to start since TPS, plugs, and battery were replaced. It still Idles around 500-600 cold, and I'm a bit worried that I only put a bandaid on the real issue and want to make sure to cover all bases and get the real problem so it doesn't become reccurring.

Previous to this problem it would Idle at 800 cold and down to 600 warm.


Thanks for the help guys.

Oh, and I did try running injector cleaner through for 2 tanks but it didn't help much if at all. That's why I decided to go ahead and have them cleaned, $50 and it can't hurt.

 

my bet is on idle air control valve. just had the same problem with mine. cleaned it and all is well.

 

^ Clean the IAC and clean the TB ^


Have you checked for a vacuum leak yet?

 

yup sounds like the IAC is dirty/sticking it is one of the parts the controls the idle speed, and your best bet is to replace it and be done with it, its not all that expensive and the first time you put it back in you may have to step on the gas to get it started and feather the gas out until the computer learns what position the new motor is in, especially if the head got moved in/out on it

 

Alrighty then cosensus says IAC, which was going to be replaced anyway. Just gotta get the time to make it to the parts store. (Army mom of 3 with #4 due in a month=no time)

Did check for vac leaks, didn't find anything obvious.

I suppose I'll just go ahead with what I've got so far and move to the next steps from there if it doesn't fix the issue.

oh I did notice the throttle cable seems s little loose, I'm no expert but anyone know what the tension should be on it ? It has about 1/2 inch of give in it, just seems like it should be tighter....

 

It could be worn a lil but should be ok. The throttle is set by the Throttle Body Plate so it should be factory set like rebel is talking about. I wouldn't mess with it.


Clean the TB and install a IAC then tune the TPS for great performance: Do It Yourself (top questions and answers) FAQ's


BTW<----- Anyone girl with Lucifer Spades as a name is a friend of mine!