If I find the engine for zero, do you want me to send you a bill for the difference between the oil pump R&R and the engine?

That's probably the best. After sinking so much into this, however, I'm understandably leery about putting more cash into it. Sometimes I think it would be better to just replace the engine. There still is a tapping in it, so it's not 100% by any means.

 

I'm finding that with lots of mechanics. However, the bearings were spun. Wonder what that was from?

Offtopic to dodges, we had loss of power and compression on my 96 Passat TDI. Took it to a mechanic who pronounced that the engine had a crack in the cylinder head. We bought a junkyard engine (we're gonna use it as a donor engine for another VW project anyway) and pulled the head; then went ahead and started the Passat and discovered that it wasn't a cracked head at all, the injector seal (retail $1.95 probably) was compromised. Replaced the injector body and the seal and it's all good.

I sometimes think that mechanics have a secret dart board for different car problems and they just throw darts at the wall.

Back on topic, I had one mechanic say the tapping was from a piston skirt breaking. Isn't that the BOTTOM of the piston? I really hear this tapping noise on my 4.7 on top.

 

my injectors make a tapping noise other than that just a steady growl and bark as i pull the throttle back

 

Yes.


What octane fule are you running and have you checked your followers again?

 

Have you replaced the lifters ever? These are common to make some noise when bad. I know my D makes some racket when it's first started, but once warmed up she's pretty quiet. Although I've been fighting with sludge for a few months.

When I first start mine the oil pressure goes up the 3/4 mark on the gauge. After prob 5-10 min of idling it will steadily fall down to the 1/4 mark. Once I give it some gas it goes right back up to the 3/4 mark. I think this is normal, as there won't be much oil pressure at idle bc the oil pump runs right off the crank. So if the motor isn't turning very fast, the oil pump isn't either.

Also if your D spun a rod bearing from driving to long with no oil pressure. You can't just replace bearings and all be good. Once the bearings spun, the dug into the crank, scratching it. You have to remove the crank and have it turned, or filed down so you have a true clean circle for the bearings to ride against.

 

Followers I believe are good. It's not running rough like it was.
I'm just putting 87 regular in it. I have a 120 mile/day commute.

 

There's the rub; it was my son driving it. I have no idea how long he drove it like that.

Lifters were replaced in September/October.

Probably the crank needs work, but I will replace the engine first. Assuming the price is right.

 

You could try 10W-40 oil as it has the same additives but it isn't as good and breaks down faster but it should give you a little better pressure. I think bjamick is on the right path with his idea of a spun bearing as the reasoning behind my decision.

 

Yeah. I was also told by some people that I could use Motor Honey. I've never used that, but I've put Lucas in. Thoughts about Lucas at every oil change?

I guess with a scratched bearing surface, which sounds plausible to me too, the last thing I want to do is put full synth in here, as it will plunge the pressure to zero. LOL

 

Ya just use a lil thicker oil and see if that helps. Maybe some 20w50, or something around there. Just try out different oils til one works.